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Old 09-23-2015, 10:19 AM   #6136
reg
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Disconnect the sway bar from the part that attaches them to the arms,so all you have is the sway bar fitted to the bulk head,lift the sway bar ends up as heigh as you can,Undo both the little grub screws so the sway bar drops down on its own,now lift the ends back up,do up one little grub screw so that the sway bar stays up in the air on its own,now slowly undo the same group screw until the swaybar drops down under its own weight,do this slowly,now do the same on the other side,that sets the sway bar,now make sure your arms drop on free with no shocks on,they should drop back down when you lift them up,now attach the sway bars to the arms with no shocks,start to lift up the right arm,as soon as the left arm moves up,measure how high the right arm is off the bench,then do the same the other side,they should both be the same,if not,make sure your sway is flat on a glass surface.
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Old 09-23-2015, 05:25 PM   #6137
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The stabilizer should be tightened down as it stops side to side movement. The bulkhead set screws just account for the thickness of the sway bar so you should tighten those until you get a little resistance from the sway moving freely and then back them off a little.

The only way to see them working is to take everything off but the arms. Too much weight and too little travel to actually see how they're working with everything together.
yep tighten the set screw so the stabiliser doesn't allow the sway bar to move from side to side... have removed the shocks, loosing the chassis set screw just enuf for the thickness of sway bar, but yet lifting up one wheel the other does not move at all. Tried differnet sway bars just incase, still notthing

im really after a setup guide and what to check as why it would be moving as im getting shit traction with it. happening with both front and back sway bars.
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Old 09-23-2015, 06:07 PM   #6138
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yep tighten the set screw so the stabiliser doesn't allow the sway bar to move from side to side... have removed the shocks, loosing the chassis set screw just enuf for the thickness of sway bar, but yet lifting up one wheel the other does not move at all. Tried differnet sway bars just incase, still notthing

im really after a setup guide and what to check as why it would be moving as im getting shit traction with it. happening with both front and back sway bars.
You're doing it wrong
Swaybars have be free to slide a little

Check out some pro-tips from a champ about how to build your car
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYLvImYUBt4

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Old 09-23-2015, 06:12 PM   #6139
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Originally Posted by BruceCampbell View Post
yep tighten the set screw so the stabiliser doesn't allow the sway bar to move from side to side... have removed the shocks, loosing the chassis set screw just enuf for the thickness of sway bar, but yet lifting up one wheel the other does not move at all. Tried differnet sway bars just incase, still notthing

im really after a setup guide and what to check as why it would be moving as im getting shit traction with it. happening with both front and back sway bars.
If it is happening with both front and rear roll bars is sounds like there is still something binding in your suspension,
I would be stripping the car back so all the hubs were removed, and you just had your lower suspension arms and roll bars and nothing else, then testing and going from there.

For the front you also have to make sure you don't over tighten anti roll bar rod into the arm, they have to be super free but still no movement in them. also make sure both front and rear rods are both 100% vertically attached to the roll bar at even points and they are 100% even lengths left to right.
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Old 09-23-2015, 06:24 PM   #6140
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Originally Posted by BruceCampbell View Post
yep tighten the set screw so the stabiliser doesn't allow the sway bar to move from side to side... have removed the shocks, loosing the chassis set screw just enuf for the thickness of sway bar, but yet lifting up one wheel the other does not move at all. Tried differnet sway bars just incase, still notthing

im really after a setup guide and what to check as why it would be moving as im getting shit traction with it. happening with both front and back sway bars.
Just removing the shocks is not enough. The cvd's, chubs, tie rods, hexes, tires etc. weigh too much for you to actually see the sway bar move the other side.

Like evo chick said strip your car down to just the arms , sways and drivetrain. If the sways are set properly they will move at this point.

Make sure every single suspension piece moves freely when your rebuilding. Meaning if you pick it up it falls back down immediately. I had to sand the rear graphite chubs for them to fit properly and free.
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Old 09-23-2015, 06:57 PM   #6141
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Just removing the shocks is not enough. The cvd's, chubs, tie rods, hexes, tires etc. weigh too much for you to actually see the sway bar move the other side.

Like evo chick said strip your car down to just the arms , sways and drivetrain. If the sways are set properly they will move at this point.

Make sure every single suspension piece moves freely when your rebuilding. Meaning if you pick it up it falls back down immediately. I had to sand the rear graphite chubs for them to fit properly and free.
yep tried all that, plus a couple of videos on sway bars... just have the arms, not shocks or wheels connected, check every moves freely with it does, but the sway just doesn't play nicely.. yoo can see it move ever so slighty but not to the extent as in the videos I have found

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bA-3qY7bIwg
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Old 09-23-2015, 07:16 PM   #6142
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yep tried all that, plus a couple of videos on sway bars... just have the arms, not shocks or wheels connected, check every moves freely with it does, but the sway just doesn't play nicely.. yoo can see it move ever so slighty but not to the extent as in the videos I have found
Depending on how small a sb you are using, it may not move much at all
Also susp arms must fall under their own weight with nothing connected to them

Gilles describes it perfectly here

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Old 09-23-2015, 10:37 PM   #6143
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yep tried all that, plus a couple of videos on sway bars... just have the arms, not shocks or wheels connected,
but did you remove the hubs and drive shafts as well ?? as we said nothing but the lower arms and swaybars connected ??
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Old 09-23-2015, 11:32 PM   #6144
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Are the links the right length that attach the sway bars to the arms?
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Old 09-24-2015, 08:03 AM   #6145
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Hey Everyone,

I've decided to put my backup BD-7 2015 up for sale. PM me for details.

-Korey
Car is Gone! Thanks to those that were interested
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Old 09-24-2015, 02:54 PM   #6146
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Anyone try an alloy chassis on outdoor asphalt?

Track is smooth with good grip. I already have the alloy chassis on for carpet and want to know if I need to switch it for aspahlt.
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Old 09-24-2015, 07:52 PM   #6147
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Anyone try an alloy chassis on outdoor asphalt?

Track is smooth with good grip. I already have the alloy chassis on for carpet and want to know if I need to switch it for aspahlt.
Yes. I tried on our 1/8 scale track here. The car is more stable and easier to drive. But it is also a little slower. On low grip asphalt it was a lot slower.
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Old 09-25-2015, 02:49 AM   #6148
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New prototype BD-X testing in HK ,
testing ARS & new shock...
Not ARS they need to let that one go
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Old 09-25-2015, 09:06 AM   #6149
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Yes. I tried on our 1/8 scale track here. The car is more stable and easier to drive. But it is also a little slower. On low grip asphalt it was a lot slower.
Thanks, easier to drive is what I'm after as I won't be winning anything any time soon. I'll leave all but 4 screws out of the top deck to give it some extra flex.
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Old 09-26-2015, 01:44 AM   #6150
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when will the 2016 Yokomo BD7 comes out
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