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Old 08-20-2015, 12:26 AM   #6061
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Originally Posted by CLovely View Post
Hi guys, ever so often I freshen up the diff oil.
And when I do this I like to replace o rings and the gaskets
Is there a cheaper alternative for the gaskets, as the yokomo ones only come one in a packet, and it becomes expensive
How often are you replacing the gasket? They're $2 or less ea so unless you're replacing them every week or something, its not too bad.

I would replace them every 2 months or so, the new 2015 diff is pretty good, doesn't leak
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Old 08-20-2015, 12:53 AM   #6062
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If the differential is leaking around the gasket area then replace the gasket. I'm still running on the same gaskets from when I bought my BD7 '13.
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Old 08-20-2015, 01:01 AM   #6063
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I had some free time and did some modifications which you can do with your BD7 at home.

First modification - steering cross brace.

The kit steering cross brace was designed to connect the upper deck and provide support for the two steering arms.
However, most drivers remove this part in order to gain more steering in the front end. This gain in steering has now left the steering arms without any proper support. It's not necessarily a big deal if you leave it off, but it doesn't hurt to put it on.Now, many aftermarket companies have come out with carbon fiber braces which add support for the two steering arms.

I figured doing this modification would save me a few bucks. If I don't like it I can always throw it back into my parts box. lol

It took me 5 minutes to do with a hacksaw and a file.
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Last edited by EDWARD2003; 08-20-2015 at 02:45 AM.
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Old 08-20-2015, 09:23 AM   #6064
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Are the steering bell crank bearings removable?

Mine are pretty rough but still functional. I don't want to destroy an expensive still functional part if they can't come out.
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Old 08-20-2015, 09:24 AM   #6065
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
I had some free time and did some modifications which you can do with your BD7 at home.

First modification - steering cross brace.

The kit steering cross brace was designed to connect the upper deck and provide support for the two steering arms.
However, most drivers remove this part in order to gain more steering in the front end. This gain in steering has now left the steering arms without any proper support. It's not necessarily a big deal if you leave it off, but it doesn't hurt to put it on.Now, many aftermarket companies have come out with carbon fiber braces which add support for the two steering arms.

I figured doing this modification would save me a few bucks. If I don't like it I can always throw it back into my parts box. lol

It took me 5 minutes to do with a hacksaw and a file.

Thats a clean job.

Running without the screw through the upper deck gives the same feel as what you did. It is different though than running without the brace entirely. There are 3 options, all of which give you different steering feel:
-run the brace with the top screw
-without the top screw
-remove the brace entirely.
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Old 08-20-2015, 10:11 AM   #6066
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Originally Posted by 2uzferunner03 View Post
Are the steering bell crank bearings removable?

Mine are pretty rough but still functional. I don't want to destroy an expensive still functional part if they can't come out.
I usually put them in the oven for a bit at 350 deg F, and let them warm up for a little while. The aluminum will expand more than the steel and loosen up the fit of the bearing enough so they just drop out.

For putting new bearings in, I just put them in the freezer for 20 min to get them cold, and drop them into the heated aluminum parts. and let them cool naturally.

I've done this on other cars, but not the Yokomo stuff yet. Might be worth a try to save some $$$$. Just remember to wear some gloves (I used mechanics gloves I use for working on my full size race machine).

-Korey
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Old 08-20-2015, 04:01 PM   #6067
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my full size race machine
Buys carbon trunklid with APR wing and KW V3s, thinks he has a race car.

-Mike
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Old 08-20-2015, 04:20 PM   #6068
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That was referring to the BMW touring car I work on :P
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Old 08-25-2015, 10:27 AM   #6069
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Anybody here running an alloy chassis? Need some setup advice for a small technical carpet track with about 9 second lap times.

I'm running the 14 bd7 with radtec chassis. I've only ran the cf chassis before and haven't strayed far from the regular carpet setup. Should I just leave that setup on it? Thanks
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Old 08-27-2015, 07:04 PM   #6070
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BD7 differential build (My Method)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIQL3bS_12I

Lightweight screws on the top deck.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kp-AD9rhwms

BD7 axle modification.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPfaOQSqLi8

Improving BD7 drive train efficiency.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRyjmbgDRXY

Square RC ball cup wrench specifically for BD7 and 4.3 ball cups.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8-uaaCgV_I
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Old 08-28-2015, 07:34 AM   #6071
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
BD7 differential build (My Method)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIQL3bS_12I

Lightweight screws on the top deck.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kp-AD9rhwms

BD7 axle modification.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPfaOQSqLi8

Improving BD7 drive train efficiency.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRyjmbgDRXY

Square RC ball cup wrench specifically for BD7 and 4.3 ball cups.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8-uaaCgV_I
Cool videos, how do the Much More shock o-rings compare to the Yokomo blue ones, the Yokomo ones don't have a number on so was quite curious how they compare in hardness, I also see Hpi do some as well?
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Old 08-31-2015, 11:53 PM   #6072
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Cool videos, how do the Much More shock o-rings compare to the Yokomo blue ones, the Yokomo ones don't have a number on so was quite curious how they compare in hardness, I also see Hpi do some as well?

I'm not to sure about the Yokomo ones. I think they would be a 40 or 50. 60 is stiff. I haven't track tested the o-rings yet. I'll let you know.
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Old 09-01-2015, 03:27 AM   #6073
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Just replaced an Xray T4'15 with a BD7 2015.

On the Xray's a very commonly used tuning option is to run 1mm shims under the topdeck to allow for more flex, and run with various mm shims on the shock mounts, placing the shock further in or out on the tower/arm.

I cannot see that this is used on the BD7. Has anybody tried this on the BD7 ?
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Old 09-01-2015, 06:21 AM   #6074
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
I'm not to sure about the Yokomo ones. I think they would be a 40 or 50. 60 is stiff. I haven't track tested the o-rings yet. I'll let you know.
Cheers that would be good to know
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Old 09-01-2015, 03:14 PM   #6075
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Originally Posted by Salkin View Post
Just replaced an Xray T4'15 with a BD7 2015.

On the Xray's a very commonly used tuning option is to run 1mm shims under the topdeck to allow for more flex, and run with various mm shims on the shock mounts, placing the shock further in or out on the tower/arm.

I cannot see that this is used on the BD7. Has anybody tried this on the BD7 ?
Interesting decision. What made you decide to "upgrade" - especially when the new models are likely so close?
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