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Old 07-30-2015, 12:15 PM   #5971
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Originally Posted by Wascheck View Post
From Yokomo website.
Cheers for that, makes life abit easier for the front of the car
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Old 07-30-2015, 12:38 PM   #5972
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
New front DCJs from Yokomo
Yes onsale now !!
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Old 07-30-2015, 03:51 PM   #5973
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Just a heads up on the new DCJ's, the axle is shorter than standard so the common flanged lock nuts are annoyingly too deep for the axle threads to make full contact with the material in the nut. So I'd recommend using unflanged nuts and reversing them so the material goes on first.
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Old 07-30-2015, 04:00 PM   #5974
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Originally Posted by nwagner View Post
Just a heads up on the new DCJ's, the axle is shorter than standard so the common flanged lock nuts are annoyingly too deep for the axle threads to make full contact with the material in the nut. So I'd recommend using unflanged nuts and reversing them so the material goes on first.
I feel like a serrated face, flanged nut would be the best option in this case. Then you maintain wheel hub support, and still have a locking feature. The serrated nuts do an excellent job of securing wheels, and they are light

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Old 07-30-2015, 04:06 PM   #5975
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
I feel like a serrated face, flanged nut would be the best option in this case. Then you maintain wheel hub support, and still have a locking feature. The serrated nuts do an excellent job of securing wheels, and they are light

-Korey
I did try the serrated nuts after my non-serrated came off, the tires still ended up spinning off. It's possible the nuts were too worn. I ended up preferring the reversed unflanged because they are flush with the end of the axle instead of the flanged ones hanging past, that's just my OCD though

The action of the new DCJ's are super smooth though so the pro's outweigh the con for me.
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Old 07-30-2015, 07:53 PM   #5976
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Yokomo sells low profile serrated nuts for the bd7 so I'm assuming those would work perfect. I use them on radtec/roche ones cut down pretty far and never lose wheels
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Old 07-30-2015, 10:16 PM   #5977
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
The rear shaft should be 44mm. You are using front shafts if they are 45.5mm.
hmmm I thought so! its a bit odd though because in the kit I only got the front DCJ's (40.6) and the "front shafts" which are 45.5. Did the kit leave out the 44mm rear shaft??
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Old 07-31-2015, 03:40 AM   #5978
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Originally Posted by 2uzferunner03 View Post
Yokomo sells low profile serrated nuts for the bd7 so I'm assuming those would work perfect. I use them on radtec/roche ones cut down pretty far and never lose wheels
Nice! Thanks for the heads up, wish they would've included 2 with the DCJ's.
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Old 08-01-2015, 05:39 AM   #5979
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Questions??

Hi all

Short arm conversion on the front of the car only does what?
More traction or just more steering response?

Short arm conversion on the rear of the car only does what?
More traction or just more steering response?

I understand camber rise with the rear upper arm in the rear of the car, but with the lower front and rear i am lost on how they would affect the car separately.

Thanks

Last edited by Stuff Of Legend; 08-01-2015 at 05:41 AM. Reason: lost on how they would affect the car separately.
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Old 08-02-2015, 12:44 AM   #5980
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Hi everybody. Been running the 2015 bd7 for a few races now and very happy with the pace. But just having a few niggles and wondering if anybody has some suggestions:

- My shocks seem to be leaking through the bottom. I am using double blue o-rings with thin collar. Anybody got a suggestion? I seem to remember reading something about using neoprene o-rings or something like that, but I can't seem to find the post

- Also the rear diff has about 0.5mm of side to side play. I assume this can be shimmed out but does anybody know which shims to use?

Thanks
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Old 08-02-2015, 12:47 AM   #5981
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Correct my theory if I'm wrong, but as far as I understand:

Quote:
Short arm conversion on the front of the car only does what?
More traction or just more steering response?
-shorter arms = faster suspension response, more roll and traction at front end = since in front, = more steering, possible oversteer in the tightest corners if rear isn't planted enough

Quote:
Short arm conversion on the rear of the car only does what?
More traction or just more steering response?
--shorter arms = faster suspension response, more roll and traction at rear end = since in rear, = less steering overall in all situations unless balanced with softer front suspension

Quote:
I understand camber rise with the rear upper arm in the rear of the car, but with the lower front and rear i am lost on how they would affect the car separately.
- sorry i don't understand your question here
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Old 08-02-2015, 06:38 AM   #5982
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeygar View Post
Correct my theory if I'm wrong, but as far as I understand:


-shorter arms = faster suspension response, more roll and traction at front end = since in front, = more steering, possible oversteer in the tightest corners if rear isn't planted enough


--shorter arms = faster suspension response, more roll and traction at rear end = since in rear, = less steering overall in all situations unless balanced with softer front suspension



- sorry i don't understand your question here
Thank you

The last one was not a question, it was a statement saying i understand camber rise/camber change with the upper arm/link.

Which is what i was guessing/reasoning was happening with the lower shorter arm conversion.
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Old 08-02-2015, 09:37 AM   #5983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeygar View Post
Correct my theory if I'm wrong, but as far as I understand:


-shorter arms = faster suspension response, more roll and traction at front end = since in front, = more steering, possible oversteer in the tightest corners if rear isn't planted enough


--shorter arms = faster suspension response, more roll and traction at rear end = since in rear, = less steering overall in all situations unless balanced with softer front suspension



- sorry i don't understand your question here
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuff Of Legend View Post
Thank you

The last one was not a question, it was a statement saying i understand camber rise/camber change with the upper arm/link.

Which is what i was guessing/reasoning was happening with the lower shorter arm conversion.
This is incorrect - the shorter arms should free up the car. I wouldn't recommend only using short arms on one end of the car - it will make the car feel broken.

Think about the length of the 'lever' that is exerting force on the tire with a longer lower arm vs. a shorter lower arm. Same shock position, same spring, but with a shorter lever (inboard mounting location is moved outwards.)

If you really want to feel a huge difference, try going short shocks and short arms...
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Old 08-02-2015, 07:51 PM   #5984
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Anyone still running the original BD7?

The reason I'm asking is I'm looking for a relatively recent carpet setup. I don't get the chance to run touring car often and want to get up to speed with this car.

How often do you replace the shock o-rings (blue) do they swell?
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Old 08-02-2015, 09:40 PM   #5985
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Default Yokomo bd7 2015 chassis weight install

anyone got any pics or videos on how this is installed on the bd7 2015.. or if it even fits

Yokomo BD7 2015 Center Balance Weight (20G) #B7-BW20 is the part number
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