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Old 07-06-2015, 02:20 PM   #5926
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Odd one

Rebuilding my car tonight and whenever I tighten the screws in the RR bulkhead cap it makes my drivetrain really tight.

I've checked the tensions and they match both sides and the bearing runs free on its own.

Any ideas what it might be? Tweaked bulkhead maybe?
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Old 07-06-2015, 03:04 PM   #5927
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Odd one

Rebuilding my car tonight and whenever I tighten the screws in the RR bulkhead cap it makes my drivetrain really tight.

I've checked the tensions and they match both sides and the bearing runs free on its own.

Any ideas what it might be? Tweaked bulkhead maybe?
Where do you have the tension cams set? Is the car tweaked when you tighten the RR upper bulkhead, or is it just the drivetrain that feels like it binds? Does it really only happen with the RR upper bulkhead?
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Old 07-06-2015, 03:40 PM   #5928
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Where do you have the tension cams set? Is the car tweaked when you tighten the RR upper bulkhead, or is it just the drivetrain that feels like it binds? Does it really only happen with the RR upper bulkhead?
Tension cams set with thinnest point at the top (loose), just the drivetrain that binds when I tighten the screws, really noticeable. Only the RR.

The bearing holder looks normal, no cracks or bends. Spring and ball are sat in the bulkhead like they should be. Mystery!!
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Old 07-06-2015, 08:24 PM   #5929
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If you are using the plastic bearing holders the pressure from the screws can be applied to the bearing and therefore give you that feeling. People at my club either use 0.1mm shims under the upper bulkhead or use alloy bearing holders
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Old 07-06-2015, 10:45 PM   #5930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uvxt View Post
Tension cams set with thinnest point at the top (loose), just the drivetrain that binds when I tighten the screws, really noticeable. Only the RR.

The bearing holder looks normal, no cracks or bends. Spring and ball are sat in the bulkhead like they should be. Mystery!!
Can you take a picture of the bearing holders left and right side installed? Also did you use the inside camber link hole on the bulkhead?

The holders are supposed to be set to lowest position from the manual which is to say the "thin" side should be at the bottom.
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Old 07-07-2015, 12:52 AM   #5931
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I had the same,it's because the plastic cams arnt sitting right,make sure the bearings are pushed on the outdrives properly,just juggle the diff about until it fits proberly,
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Old 07-07-2015, 02:45 PM   #5932
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I had the same,it's because the plastic cams arnt sitting right,make sure the bearings are pushed on the outdrives properly,just juggle the diff about until it fits proberly,
I think this might be the one. Swapped the cams round and it's all sorted! Happy it was that simple.

Cheers for the help guys!
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Old 07-07-2015, 03:14 PM   #5933
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Happy days 😎👍🏼
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Old 07-07-2015, 10:25 PM   #5934
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Hey all,

New to the BD7 2015 If you guys can help need some info!

I don't understand when to use the cross brackets for the bulkheads? High Grip?

I'm about to start racing on carpet with Foams, the track is pretty bumpy with med grip, is the base carpet setup ok to use or does anyone have one they can share? Racing 13.5 Stock

Thanks for your time
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Old 07-08-2015, 12:30 AM   #5935
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Carpet with foam tires is a completely different ball game. You'll probably end up going stiffer up front with thicker oil. I'd also probably run more shims in the steering rack for less ackerman.

I don't think you'll find much detailed advise for this car for carpet + foam tires since the US really hasnt run it at big races for a number of years now. Let us know how it goes!

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Old 07-09-2015, 06:22 PM   #5936
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Default Short Arm Conversion

Can anyone tell me what they've noticed going from the standard suspension to the short arm suspension? Just curious to know if it's worth the money or not. I run 17.5, and I run on medium bite, flat asphalt, if that helps at all.
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Old 07-11-2015, 10:04 AM   #5937
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Do the two different style of yokomo dcj's (grubscrew, or clip retained) use the exact same axle and bone as each other?

Also, does the Japan spec version of the '15 (that comes with dcj's, floating servo mount and titanium turnbuckles as standard) come with the earlier grub screw or later clip type retained dcj's? I would have thought it comes with the later clip types, but the pictures I can find of the assembled car looks more like it has the earlier type (maybe they had surplus stock to make use of?).

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Old 07-11-2015, 10:23 AM   #5938
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The short arms increase the response of the car, so they are a good option when the tires you are using make the car feel like it stalls in the middle of the corner. If the car is generating a lot of steering and/or rotation, it is best to keep the longer arms. I feel Using the short shocks is an in between of the two and might be a better value than the short arms.

The JRMCA versions come with the clip DCJs. Not sure about parts interchangeability.
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Old 07-13-2015, 05:25 AM   #5939
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Hello folks
I'm currently building my BD7 blacks series (just wanted to try something different to my Awesomatix)
Two questions: What is the total shock length you builld your shocks, in mm if possible ;-)
And any building tips for the diff? It comes assembled, but if there are any hints to make it as bulletproof as possible i would be thankful.

Thanks and regards
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Old 07-13-2015, 09:54 AM   #5940
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
The short arms increase the response of the car, so they are a good option when the tires you are using make the car feel like it stalls in the middle of the corner. If the car is generating a lot of steering and/or rotation, it is best to keep the longer arms. I feel Using the short shocks is an in between of the two and might be a better value than the short arms.

The JRMCA versions come with the clip DCJs. Not sure about parts interchangeability.
Cristian, On your REEDY tire setup, were you using the short black ballstuds on the inner links? Thanks.
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