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Old 06-02-2015, 05:57 AM   #5821
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I have a 14 black yokomo bd7...im running usgt wit hpi silver springs all around....the car has great rear traction but pushes like a dog going into a corner..i have 30wt associated in the shocks wit 3.0 toe in the rear...can some one give me a setup that will give me more steering...thanks
Things to try, if you require more steering.
To gain more entry steering try adding .5-1mm toe out. You will lose a little exit steering with this method.
The less toe in you have in the rear the more steering you will gain up front, 5.7 rear block will give you 2.5 toe.
Someone already noted your oil is to light, try going up in weight and possibly going with softer springs all around. I speak for myself but I always run zero to 10% rebound on my shocks and let the springs do the work.
Check your ride height front and rear. Make sure it's level or have the rear slightly higher than the front.
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Old 06-02-2015, 09:31 AM   #5822
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Originally Posted by bigbank66 View Post
I have a 14 black yokomo bd7...im running usgt wit hpi silver springs all around....the car has great rear traction but pushes like a dog going into a corner..i have 30wt associated in the shocks wit 3.0 toe in the rear...can some one give me a setup that will give me more steering...thanks
I've been running a '15 car for about 3 months, maybe 8 meetings in total in 13.5 outdoors, and changed lots of things in that time (car has been good to me from the start, just want to get the most out of it). Simply going to 6 degree castor blocks (from the kit 4 degrees) gave me the best improvement to my corner entry speed without making it hard to drive.

I normally run 2.5 toe in the rear, but dropped that to just 1.5 last weekend to see how driveable it would be. Turn in was actually a bit worse (not what I expected). However if I drove it very accurate going into the corner it carried great speed through the turn. It's not easy or comfortable to drive, and it can get loose exiting the corner, but it is very fast around the track.
Less toe on the rear will also give you a bit of extra straight line speed (nice bonus if you are running a spec class).

Although my car is a '15, your '14 might behave in the same way with these changes. Give the 6 degree steering blocks a try is what I would recommend.

Keith M.
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Old 06-02-2015, 08:54 PM   #5823
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Default 2 questions

1. Whats the number on the rear tow block that gives u 1.5 an 2.0 deg tow??

2. Whats the difference between stock front carrier hubs an 2 deg hubs??
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Old 06-03-2015, 05:09 AM   #5824
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A 3.5rf and 5.7rr should be 1.5°. Not sure if the 3.5 fits on the rear.
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Old 06-03-2015, 06:40 AM   #5825
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A 3.5rf and 5.7rr should be 1.5°. Not sure if the 3.5 fits on the rear.
3.5 separate blocks on the RF will fit
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Old 06-03-2015, 06:59 AM   #5826
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Originally Posted by bigbank66 View Post
1. Whats the number on the rear tow block that gives u 1.5 an 2.0 deg tow??

2. Whats the difference between stock front carrier hubs an 2 deg hubs??
Toe angle chart
Attached Thumbnails
YOKOMO Touring Car BD-7-toe-angle-chart.jpg  
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Old 06-03-2015, 07:05 AM   #5827
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Originally Posted by bigbank66 View Post
1. Whats the number on the rear tow block that gives u 1.5 an 2.0 deg tow??

2. Whats the difference between stock front carrier hubs an 2 deg hubs??
You can stick with a rear 2.0 block to get 1.5 degrees and 2.0 also, besides from the other combinations mentioned without changing your rear track width from factory settings.

1.5 degree
Rear Front Split - B7-3120BS (2.0)
Rear Rear Solid - B7-3142B (4.2)

2.0 degree
Rear Front Split - B7-3120BS (2.0)
Rear Rear Solid - B7-3149B (4.9)
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Old 06-03-2015, 08:23 AM   #5828
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You can stick with a rear 2.0 block to get 1.5 degrees and 2.0 also, besides from the other combinations mentioned without changing your rear track width from factory settings.

1.5 degree
Rear Front Split - B7-3120BS (2.0)
Rear Rear Solid - B7-3142B (4.2)

2.0 degree
Rear Front Split - B7-3120BS (2.0)
Rear Rear Solid - B7-3149B (4.9)
That's the combination I used to run 1.5 degree.
As you said, it keeps the toe adjustment in isolation from also changing track width if you stick with the standard split blocks. Keeps it less complicated that way, better for me!
I've also got a 4.9 block to run the car at 2 degrees toe which might prove to be a bit more comfortable to drive.

I'm surprised that running less rear toe isn't more common practice in stock classes. Who wouldn't want a little more top end on the straight? To be fair, the way the car drives with less toe is maybe not the way to go for many drivers, as it is not necessarily easy to drive like that. But I rarely come across drivers at my local clubs (running any brand) who even give it a try. Seems pretty rare on set-up sheets you come across online too.

Keith M.
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Old 06-03-2015, 08:45 AM   #5829
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Originally Posted by bigbank66 View Post
2. Whats the difference between stock front carrier hubs an 2 deg hubs??
Standard caster blocks on the '15 are 4 degree, and I think the '14 is also the same. I did run 2 degree caster blocks initially when I got my '15 as that is what I was using on my original bd7 that I had been running, which I was pretty happy with.
Going to the 6 degree block on my '15 really brought the steering alive, even though it had been pretty good anyway at 2 degrees caster.
Caster has always been a reliable steering adjustment for me on various cars over the years.

Just remember that if you change to a different caster block you might get a slightly different camber and steering angle, so adjust those turnbuckles if you need to, to maintain those settings.

Keith M.
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Old 06-03-2015, 09:28 AM   #5830
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Toe angle chart


is this for short arms????
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Old 06-03-2015, 09:31 AM   #5831
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I see a lot of online set up sheets, people use the 44.2 FF block (instead of 43.5 FF) with the stock 43.5 FR blocks... Can anybody tell me what this is supposed to do?
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Old 06-03-2015, 09:58 AM   #5832
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It adds front arm sweep which causes the car to have a little less turn in but more steering through the turn and coming out of the turn.

I just did this a couple weeks ago and I like the feel better with arm sweep.
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:24 AM   #5833
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Originally Posted by YOKOMOSHO View Post
That's the combination I used to run 1.5 degree.
As you said, it keeps the toe adjustment in isolation from also changing track width if you stick with the standard split blocks. Keeps it less complicated that way, better for me!
I've also got a 4.9 block to run the car at 2 degrees toe which might prove to be a bit more comfortable to drive.

I'm surprised that running less rear toe isn't more common practice in stock classes. Who wouldn't want a little more top end on the straight? To be fair, the way the car drives with less toe is maybe not the way to go for many drivers, as it is not necessarily easy to drive like that. But I rarely come across drivers at my local clubs (running any brand) who even give it a try. Seems pretty rare on set-up sheets you come across online too.

Keith M.
I agree with you, personally I run 2.0 deg. rear toe for high flowing outdoor tracks and 0 up front. The car feels a little twitchy but it's okay once you get used to it.
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:26 AM   #5834
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is this for short arms????
That chart is for standard arms 39.5-40.5

When you buy the short arm kit it comes with a chart, I haven't seen any online if someone wants I can take a snapshot of my chart.
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:28 AM   #5835
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is this for short arms????
Toe Chart for short arms
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