R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Like Tree6Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-20-2015, 02:09 PM   #5761
Tech Adept
 
capellone24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 100
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2uzferunner03 View Post
I asked pretty much the same question a few pages ago and never got an answer. Hopefully someone can chime in to help. The bd7 forum is strange. You can ask a setup question or chassis question and get no answers but an oring question will get pages of response. Go figure.
did it myself



in red 2014,in black 2015.

so bulkhead holes have different spacing.
__________________
visit my yokomo blog:
http://yokomo-fan.blogspot.com/
capellone24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2015, 02:39 PM   #5762
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 497
Default

Nice. Thanks
2uzferunner03 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2015, 08:47 PM   #5763
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Posts: 461
Trader Rating: 23 (100%+)
Default

Hi all, just about to begin my 2015 build. Any tips on building it? Currently I have:

Shocks: Black bladders (YS-8HD), 2 x blue o-rings (YS-7HG) with thin collar (BD-S2W)
Diff: As kit build specs but soaking o-rings in shock oil for a few hours first. Also sand gears down using 300 grit sandpaper

Is this correct? Much appreciated for any response.
__________________
Awesomatix A800X | Team SILVERBACK | LRP | R1WURKS | FUTABA
Zhangesh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2015, 06:47 AM   #5764
Tech Elite
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 2,351
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zhangesh View Post
Hi all, just about to begin my 2015 build. Any tips on building it? Currently I have:

Shocks: Black bladders (YS-8HD), 2 x blue o-rings (YS-7HG) with thin collar (BD-S2W)
Diff: As kit build specs but soaking o-rings in shock oil for a few hours first. Also sand gears down using 300 grit sandpaper

Is this correct? Much appreciated for any response.
Well if you haven't done so already, pick up front DCJ's and a decent servo mount. Stock turnbuckles aren't the best either...
__________________
When the flag drops, the BS stops.

The train stops at the train station. The bus stops at the bus station. In my office I have a workstation.
Lonestar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2015, 07:14 AM   #5765
Tech Master
 
b20btec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Sugar Land
Posts: 1,087
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2uzferunner03 View Post
I asked pretty much the same question a few pages ago and never got an answer. Hopefully someone can chime in to help. The bd7 forum is strange. You can ask a setup question or chassis question and get no answers but an oring question will get pages of response. Go figure.
It's not strange, sometimes a questions is ask over and over again and quick search may be the remedy.

The SSS and SLF question.

The SSS shock shaft is for the older 2013 BD7 and below and I believe is similar to the BD5 also. It is a different shock assembly compared to the SLF

The SLF is a hard anodized aluminum body that came with the 2014-2015. There may be a slight increase in volume, I don't remember. I never tried or care to swap parts between the old and new shocks. Two versions of this the standard and short and both can be used with standard touring car springs.
__________________
Soap



REFLEXRACING.NET * TEXASEOS.NET * YOKOMO
b20btec is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2015, 08:01 AM   #5766
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 497
Default

I read every page of this forum and exhausted Google search before asking about the chassis.

I have the blue 14 that came with blue alloy parts on the shocks. Does that mean their the sss shocks? Only reason I even care is because I want to get the tini shock shafts for them.
2uzferunner03 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2015, 08:59 AM   #5767
Tech Master
 
b20btec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Sugar Land
Posts: 1,087
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2uzferunner03 View Post
I read every page of this forum and exhausted Google search before asking about the chassis.

I have the blue 14 that came with blue alloy parts on the shocks. Does that mean their the sss shocks? Only reason I even care is because I want to get the tini shock shafts for them.
You have the non SLF shocks, they do make the titanium nitride coated shaft for those also, same ones thats always used on the BD5.

YS-53S-4T is the part number.
__________________
Soap



REFLEXRACING.NET * TEXASEOS.NET * YOKOMO
b20btec is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2015, 09:05 AM   #5768
Tech Master
 
b20btec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Sugar Land
Posts: 1,087
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zhangesh View Post
Hi all, just about to begin my 2015 build. Any tips on building it? Currently I have:

Shocks: Black bladders (YS-8HD), 2 x blue o-rings (YS-7HG) with thin collar (BD-S2W)
Diff: As kit build specs but soaking o-rings in shock oil for a few hours first. Also sand gears down using 300 grit sandpaper

Is this correct? Much appreciated for any response.
If you have experience building onroad cars it's fairly easy. Everyone has their own way of doing things. One of the most important things is to make sure everything moves freely...suspensions arms, spool, diff, turnbuckles etc. I usually have to had shims on the bearings at the front spool to take away some free play. Me personally I don't bother soaking the orings and sanding diffs. I don't have issues with leak diffs because I use yokomo sealing grease on the gasket area and dow 55 on the orings. Since we're discussing shocks, just make sure they're symmetric from left to right.
__________________
Soap



REFLEXRACING.NET * TEXASEOS.NET * YOKOMO
b20btec is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2015, 10:07 AM   #5769
Tech Addict
 
rc_square24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 706
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zhangesh View Post
Hi all, just about to begin my 2015 build. Any tips on building it? Currently I have:

Shocks: Black bladders (YS-8HD), 2 x blue o-rings (YS-7HG) with thin collar (BD-S2W)
Diff: As kit build specs but soaking o-rings in shock oil for a few hours first. Also sand gears down using 300 grit sandpaper

Is this correct? Much appreciated for any response.
The gear diff bearings fit very tightly on the housing. Before you build the diff, you may want to wrap some 600 or so sandpaper around the bearing seat to twist and sand it down a bit. That should prevent any possible binding. Just keep checking and make sure you don't sand it down too much.
rc_square24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2015, 10:38 AM   #5770
Tech Addict
 
32819toon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: North of England
Posts: 580
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 32819toon View Post
I bought the RS version of the BD7. I found there to be a 2mm gap at the front left suspension mount. It looks like the FF mount is slightly bent, causing a gap and therefore play on the suspension arm. Has anyone else come across this problem ?
Anyone had this problem ? Anyone have the RS ?
__________________
32819toon
VBC Wildfire D08, Yokomo BD7 RS, Schumacher Atom, Tamiya M03, M05 (outdoor Mini), M03RWD, MF01-X, BSR M-Rage, ABC Gambado, Associated TC4 (outdoor car).
32819toon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2015, 10:58 AM   #5771
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 497
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 32819toon View Post
Anyone had this problem ? Anyone have the RS ?

I don't have the rs but I would think if the ff mount is bent it would be impossible to bolt upto the chassis.
2uzferunner03 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2015, 04:49 PM   #5772
Tech Addict
 
32819toon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: North of England
Posts: 580
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2uzferunner03 View Post
I don't have the rs but I would think if the ff mount is bent it would be impossible to bolt upto the chassis.
The screws go in to the front and rear mounts, but on the left side there is about 2mm movement of the arm on the pivot pin. When you look at the pattern on the carbon fibre chassis, you can see that the mounts aren't straight.
__________________
32819toon
VBC Wildfire D08, Yokomo BD7 RS, Schumacher Atom, Tamiya M03, M05 (outdoor Mini), M03RWD, MF01-X, BSR M-Rage, ABC Gambado, Associated TC4 (outdoor car).
32819toon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2015, 05:26 PM   #5773
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Posts: 461
Trader Rating: 23 (100%+)
Default

Thanks for the tips, I have dcj's, ti turnbuckles and the floating servo mount. Just completed the build though and I noticed the rear diff feels much heavier compared to other diffs. I have 3000 oil in there and it feels like a 5000?? I replaced kit red o-rings with Kyosho ORG05 and removed the smaller outer o-rings.

Also, how to people build the shocks to be zero rebound? I tried a number of different techniques that I used to do on my xray shocks but I still seem to have 10-20% rebound and there is also a tin bit of negative rebound when the shaft is fully extended.

Last edited by Zhangesh; 05-22-2015 at 05:37 PM.
Zhangesh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2015, 10:09 PM   #5774
Tech Master
 
evochick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Sydney AU
Posts: 1,537
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Did you sand the dimples off the back of the diff gears as well. Might be a little tight to start with but will free up
__________________
Unretired

2017 ACT Rally champion :)
evochick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2015, 01:02 AM   #5775
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Posts: 461
Trader Rating: 23 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by evochick View Post
Did you sand the dimples off the back of the diff gears as well. Might be a little tight to start with but will free up
Yeah sanded all the gears down, I think it may be the o-rings, they're a bit tight on the outdrives. First race day tomorrow, i'll see if it breaks in
__________________
Awesomatix A800X | Team SILVERBACK | LRP | R1WURKS | FUTABA
Zhangesh is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
"TITC" THAILAND INTERNATIONAL TOURING CAR CHAMPIONSHIP 2006 John Doucakis Electric On-Road 233 03-20-2016 03:30 PM
Revolution Touring Car Championship 2005 (RTCC) SuPerDraGon Singapore R/C Racers 639 10-01-2005 04:25 AM
LRP Touring Car Masters 2005 V12 Electric On-Road 337 09-02-2005 01:43 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:47 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net