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Old 04-02-2015, 06:31 AM   #5671
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What are you guys using as far as rear diff oil goes.

I'll be racing a very small carpet track a medium sized parking lot track and a large permanent track (full throttle). Racing 17.5
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Old 04-02-2015, 06:35 AM   #5672
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stop crashing

more seriously - replace balljoints, threads are likely stripped by now and they are moving as soon as you hit anything. I was also told the m3 thread depth of the stock turnbuckles is a bit on the shallow side, as opposed to (for instance) the optional yokomo titanium ones.

HAving said that - the yokomo isn't known for being as consistent under constraint as, say, an xray for instance (which never tweaks, never moves, even under crash...). This is the one thing I'm missing from my T4 '14 (and the non-leaky shocks too!)

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Excluding the latest Xray 2015 the Xray tweaks quite a bit, only ever tweaked my old BD7 2014 after some major crashes at a large outdoor track that shifted the battery as well. In my opinion the only thing Xray does better on quality over other cars including the Yokomo is their plastics are better quality
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Old 04-02-2015, 07:32 AM   #5673
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Excluding the latest Xray 2015 the Xray tweaks quite a bit, only ever tweaked my old BD7 2014 after some major crashes at a large outdoor track that shifted the battery as well. In my opinion the only thing Xray does better on quality over other cars including the Yokomo is their plastics are better quality
Did you have both? I had both BD7 '15 and T4 '14 for a couple of months until a few days ago (sold the T4)... believe me, I have played with the 4 scales extensively. The BD7 '15 has way more tweak hysteresis than the T4 '14. like WAY more. About double, actually. The T4 will shift about 30g left to right, the yok about 50 to 60g. It's shocking. Talking both CWF lower decks here (with an Al chassis, the hysteresis is about zero as there is so much torsional "spring"). Imagine if the T4 had a single-piece motor mount...

Agree with you though - xray's plastics are second to none. Yokomo's are okay.

Paul
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Old 04-02-2015, 08:52 AM   #5674
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just a little question from a novice (of touring)

i bought a used bd7 2014, tried a couple of times at the track and i noticed that almost every time i hit something or crash, the steering/suspension links of the front wheel change lenght, trowing completely off trim, camber etc..

is this to be expected in this kind of vehicle or are the plastics worn and in need of replacement? (they seem fine to me).


i know the right answer is "just don't crash", i'm getting there
i'm just not used to this kind of issues; i usually drive 1/8 buggys so i'm used to a bullet proof car.
I'm almost certain your servo mount is moving after a crash. If you don't have it already, use 3 screws to reinforce the mount to the chassis. Have a look on petiteRC for photos.
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Old 04-02-2015, 10:26 AM   #5675
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i bet one of your ball cups is stripped. Replace the one that keeps moving. Secondly, use a servo saver from xray. Thirdly, make sure your cvd threads arent sticking out way past the outside of the wheel when mounted.... if so, shave those down flush with the wheel. Lastly, quit sucking and hitting stuff
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Old 04-03-2015, 06:14 AM   #5676
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Did you have both? I had both BD7 '15 and T4 '14 for a couple of months until a few days ago (sold the T4)... believe me, I have played with the 4 scales extensively. The BD7 '15 has way more tweak hysteresis than the T4 '14. like WAY more. About double, actually. The T4 will shift about 30g left to right, the yok about 50 to 60g. It's shocking. Talking both CWF lower decks here (with an Al chassis, the hysteresis is about zero as there is so much torsional "spring"). Imagine if the T4 had a single-piece motor mount...

Agree with you though - xray's plastics are second to none. Yokomo's are okay.

Paul
I currently have a 2015 BD7, I don't race indoors and don't crash that much, scales can be helpful, although I don't use any for balancing, more interested how the car performs on track.

Alloy chassis is great until it bends lol, no call for them for outdoor racing thankfully . Both are excellent cars though
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Old 04-03-2015, 01:35 PM   #5677
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I have a couple of questions about some changes and how they effect. Maybe someone can answer me and tell me if my opinion is right:

- front motor conversion: when I use it the car has less steering in fast wide corners and more in small tight corners?

- short arms in the rear: the car has less grip in the rear and rotates better in tight small corners. It also is "harder" to drive trough fast wide corners because of less rear grip

- last year i drove my 2014 with 0.5mm shims under the FF and RR arms like \ /. I don't really now what the effect of that was but it ran pretty good. I'm thinking of testing this in my 2015 too but i want to know what the theory behind that is.

I run the car on asphalt on a bumpy track with 17.5T blinky
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Old 04-05-2015, 04:17 PM   #5678
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I have a couple of questions about some changes and how they effect. Maybe someone can answer me and tell me if my opinion is right:

- front motor conversion: when I use it the car has less steering in fast wide corners and more in small tight corners?

- short arms in the rear: the car has less grip in the rear and rotates better in tight small corners. It also is "harder" to drive trough fast wide corners because of less rear grip

- last year i drove my 2014 with 0.5mm shims under the FF and RR arms like \ /. I don't really now what the effect of that was but it ran pretty good. I'm thinking of testing this in my 2015 too but i want to know what the theory behind that is.

I run the car on asphalt on a bumpy track with 17.5T blinky
Your FMC findings sound about right since there should be less weight transfer with the motor further forward.

I'm not a big fan of shorter arms but I can't speak from experience since I've never had a desire to try it. It seems counter intuitive to reduce the stance when you could just reduce rear toe-in for a similar effect but you also get less rolling resistance which is a big gain in top speed for 17.5.

Shimming the arms like that effects the squat or anti-squat, there's already plenty of discussions about that in other threads here.

Last edited by nwagner; 04-05-2015 at 08:33 PM.
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Old 04-05-2015, 11:15 PM   #5679
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The short arms are supposed to give you more grip. It slows down weight transfer and roll making the car more responsive off center and more stable. The car feels very different with the short arms. I didn't like it on carpet and haven't had the chance to try it outside but others that have tried it on outdoor asphalt and say it is hands down faster.
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Old 04-06-2015, 04:23 AM   #5680
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Did you have both? I had both BD7 '15 and T4 '14 for a couple of months until a few days ago (sold the T4)... believe me, I have played with the 4 scales extensively. The BD7 '15 has way more tweak hysteresis than the T4 '14. like WAY more. About double, actually. The T4 will shift about 30g left to right, the yok about 50 to 60g. It's shocking. Talking both CWF lower decks here (with an Al chassis, the hysteresis is about zero as there is so much torsional "spring"). Imagine if the T4 had a single-piece motor mount...

Agree with you though - xray's plastics are second to none. Yokomo's are okay.

Paul
Both great cars but the xray is by far more resistant to tweak.

Yoko plastics are better than the standard t4 plastics.
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Old 04-07-2015, 01:41 AM   #5681
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Both great cars but the xray is by far more resistant to tweak.

Yoko plastics are better than the standard t4 plastics.
cannot agree more on the first one as discussed earlier

Can you elaborate on the second one? Judging by slop alone (which might be just the tip of the iceberg), I'm struggling with that statement...

Paul
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Old 04-07-2015, 04:50 AM   #5682
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I recently picked up a bd7 rs to try my hand at tc. Are all the 2014/2015 parts compatible if or when I choose to update?
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Old 04-07-2015, 06:05 AM   #5683
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cannot agree more on the first one as discussed earlier

Can you elaborate on the second one? Judging by slop alone (which might be just the tip of the iceberg), I'm struggling with that statement...

Paul

I have just switched to the xray graphite plastics. From what I can see they are very similar is not equal to the yoko graphite parts so the below applies to both.

Stiffer and freerer. They should provide more grip and more stability.

The yok plastics effectively don't wear and after lots of use had less slop than a few race day old stock xray plastics.

The trade off is the graphite parts are more brittle and may lead to the chassi being more easily tweaked.
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Old 04-09-2015, 11:19 PM   #5684
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Default RS BD7

Is the RS BD7 any good ? I'm thinking of buying one. Are the plastic bulkheads strong enough ?
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Old 04-09-2015, 11:39 PM   #5685
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Is the RS BD7 any good ? I'm thinking of buying one. Are the plastic bulkheads strong enough ?
You're better off buying a used BD7 13' or wait for the BD7 RS ver 2.
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