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Old 03-20-2015, 01:30 PM   #5626
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Originally Posted by kobiwan View Post
Do you find it being too stiff? Some people are feeling that way.
Felt great to me I also used both front and rear cross braces and steering brace. For me set-up changes with the aluminum chassis are more noticeable in a good way, you can really feel what you change
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Old 03-20-2015, 03:04 PM   #5627
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the standard RW gears are too thick if you use the stock screws, you can use flathead screws with them to get more clearance,
My guess would be that you destroyed the bearings that way, or had the belts way too tight.
Ah damn ok, left the belt tensions kit
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Old 03-22-2015, 11:27 AM   #5628
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Hi all,

My names Josh,

I wonder if someone can help, sorry if this has been asked previously,

When I first assembled my BD7 15, I couldn't tighten the little M3x6 flat head screw that goes into the layshaft, if i do, when the drivetrain runs forward the whole drivetrain locks up, as the car was new i didnt want to over tighten it, so i decided to slacken it up (maybe a little to much) on the first run with the car, the screw and bearing flew out during a race and I lost them.

Is there anything i can do to prevent this?

I have brought new screws and the washer and bearing that I lost and put a little thread lock on a M3x6 flat head screw, this has so far worked for 5 rounds.

Ive heard I can use a button head screw without the washer, but im unsure what size screw, maybe M3x8 Button head?

Just wondered if anybody has/had this problem and what you have done to prevent it, also wondered what you lot are running.

I have attached a pic of the screw in question, the pic shows someone using a button head screw with no washer, hence the question.

Any replies and help is appreciated.
Get a M3 0.5mm aluminum washer and slap it in before the "rosette washer" as shown on manual Page 5. Previously I have tried Team Associates thread locker, it sucks when you want to remove the spur gear (big chance you might strip the screw head).

After installing the washer, no matter how tight you screw the M3x6 FH. It won't jam the centre gear pulley movement.

give it a try.
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Old 03-22-2015, 07:13 PM   #5629
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Get a M3 0.5mm aluminum washer and slap it in before the "rosette washer" as shown on manual Page 5. Previously I have tried Team Associates thread locker, it sucks when you want to remove the spur gear (big chance you might strip the screw head).

After installing the washer, no matter how tight you screw the M3x6 FH. It won't jam the centre gear pulley movement.

give it a try.
Thanks!
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Old 03-22-2015, 07:15 PM   #5630
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Hi,
I need help! I finally found a setup that works great for the first half of a 5 min race, then my car just starts loosing grip and slides in the corners. I race in very hot temps (Aruba 32 celcius) asphalt temp may be 60 celcius or hotter, I use Sorex 36SR premounted tyres. Should I try a Sorex 40SY? We don't have spec tyres. Is it a setup problem or tyre issue?
My setup is almost like this one from Bethany:http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/yoko...seSetup201410/
Front susp blacks FF: 4.2, FR:3,5 and
Wheel base 1 mm at the back of front arm
blinky MM Euro, MM Fleta 13,5
spur 96 pin 44 (64pitch)
arm front 5mm and rear 4mm
everything else the same.

Thx for help!
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Old 03-22-2015, 07:42 PM   #5631
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Sounds like the rears are overheating halfway through the run and losing grip. Sorex 40's work in a temperature range of 50+ degrees C. So it's worth giving them a try first before you start mucking around with your setup.

Also you should keep in mind that your shock oil will change when the ambient temperature changes. So, 46.3 wt oil on the setup sheet with 32*C air temperature (excluding the heat coming off the track) will be around 40 wt oil. This is just something extra for you to think about
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Old 03-22-2015, 08:50 PM   #5632
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Hi,
I need help! I finally found a setup that works great for the first half of a 5 min race, then my car just starts loosing grip and slides in the corners.
Thx for help!
Can you be a little more specific at what point the car slides through the corner, is it entry , middle or exit ?? It will help to troubleshoot.
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:01 PM   #5633
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Post Corner entry!

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Originally Posted by evochick View Post
Can you be a little more specific at what point the car slides through the corner, is it entry , middle or exit ?? It will help to troubleshoot.
It's more when entering the corner, middle and exit is perfect. Oil I'm using yokomo #450 shock oil and diff Yokomo Dot #4, low grip, parkinglot track, rough asphalt.

Thx for the help!
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:28 PM   #5634
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It's more when entering the corner, middle and exit is perfect. Oil I'm using yokomo #450 shock oil and diff Yokomo Dot #4, low grip, parkinglot track, rough asphalt.

Thx for the help!
hmmm, try reducing front camber to 2deg, and or try a harder front spring next.
With your tyres I would be temping them during practice and see what they are at the 2 min mark and after they have gone off, and see what the difference in front and rear temps are.
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:50 PM   #5635
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Thx, will try out these tips.
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:57 PM   #5636
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I would first look at

A) Increase the front oil. Leave the rear oil as is. (55 wt front and 45 rear)
B) Increase the front spring rate and soften the rear (Pink front and blue rear)
C) Reduce front camber, increase rear camber (front -1.0~1.5 and rear -2)
D) More droop in the front. Or try running 2.5 mm front and rear droop (good starting point)
E) Raise the front roll center and lower the rear roll center.

Give those a try and see what happens. Also do each setup change one at a time.
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Old 03-23-2015, 09:59 AM   #5637
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Round 1 of our series in Texas, we race heads up for quals point 3 heats and 1 main. I was running a different car during the first 2 heats but was having issues. Switched back to the 15 and was able to win the heat, due to not having enough quals point I dropped to the B main. Anyways the yok was fast, race time was top 3. Running shorter arms btw.
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Old 03-23-2015, 03:01 PM   #5638
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Thumbs up Thx!

Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
I would first look at

A) Increase the front oil. Leave the rear oil as is. (55 wt front and 45 rear)
B) Increase the front spring rate and soften the rear (Pink front and blue rear)
C) Reduce front camber, increase rear camber (front -1.0~1.5 and rear -2)
D) More droop in the front. Or try running 2.5 mm front and rear droop (good starting point)
E) Raise the front roll center and lower the rear roll center.

Give those a try and see what happens. Also do each setup change one at a time.
Thx for help, will definitely try these changes.
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Old 03-23-2015, 03:17 PM   #5639
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Ran the car this past weekend at the MN state champs race. its held in the middle of a car show in front of a bunch of people! Awesome way to get people interested! By the end of the weekend this is what i ended up with for a setup. the track was older crc carpet. I do think having the FMC on the car would have helped as i feel the back tires were starting to get over worked as the groove came up. Mine just did not get here till the day after! lol
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Old 03-25-2015, 07:04 PM   #5640
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does anybody have a photo of how the chassis weights are supposed to mount?
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