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Old 10-08-2012, 12:57 PM   #541
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Do the Tamiya DCJ's fit? What's the part number on the kyosho o-ring and hpi shim?
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Old 10-08-2012, 12:59 PM   #542
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Also, does Yokomo or anybody else make a HARD bumper?
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Old 10-08-2012, 12:59 PM   #543
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Do the Tamiya DCJ's fit? Also, what's the part number on the kyosho o-ring and hpi shim?
And so it begins...
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:06 PM   #544
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Do the Tamiya DCJ's fit? What's the part number on the kyosho o-ring and hpi shim?
What's wrong with the yokomo dcj? Mine are smooth as butter. The Kyosho o rings are p5s.
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:33 PM   #545
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Tamiya DCJ's have a captured pin, Yokomo's don't. Our upcoming XRAY DCJ's and Gen 2. TC6 will have a captured pin design for this reason. The capture pin tends to have less failure, they are easier to "build right".
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Old 10-08-2012, 02:20 PM   #546
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Tamiya DCJ's have a captured pin, Yokomo's don't. Our upcoming XRAY DCJ's and Gen 2. TC6 will have a captured pin design for this reason. The capture pin tends to have less failure, they are easier to "build right".
Ahh it's always nice to have another option and you make good products. However I've never had any issues with my x ray or yoko dcjs.
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Old 10-08-2012, 02:22 PM   #547
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Also, does Yokomo or anybody else make a HARD bumper?
Christian(rsd) makes a hard bumper of good quality that you could make work pretty easily.
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Old 10-08-2012, 02:57 PM   #548
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And so it begins...

Why do you say that?......do you have to frankenstein this car to get it to run properly?
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Old 10-08-2012, 03:17 PM   #549
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Also, does Yokomo or anybody else make a HARD bumper?
Oh boy are you jumping ship over to the dark side? And whats up with you and hard bumpers. Just stop bumping stuff.
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And so it begins...
Art are you coming over too? I know your an xray boy.

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Why do you say that?......do you have to frankenstein this car to get it to run properly?
No you don't I'm running mine box stock and its awesome. I will be switching to graphite. But I will be using all Yokomo parts.
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Old 10-08-2012, 03:32 PM   #550
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Art are you coming over too? I know your an xray boy.
No one at Xray likes me very much anyway, so I don't have to worry about pissing those guys off anymore then normal. I will drive whatever I want, as I brought two Xrays T3 2012s to Vegas and a Tamiya 417.

I am not an Xray Fan boy, but when a car works I am going to run it. The Xray works very well for me right now and provides a good racing platform. For one run I threw out my Tamiya in Vegas and found the car to need some work that I simply did not have time to do.

The Yokomo intrigues me, but the durability of the car concerns me for sure. Part of the reason I picked up an Xray was so that I could access to parts here in the US and not have to order from HK every week. Until Amain gets fully stocked and keeps it that way I will have to order from overseas. Parts availability has always been an issue with Yokomo in the past and I see that being an issue with this car as well.

An honest account of the durability would be nice especially from the front plastic part perspective. I would want to know that the car does not break every run if you just graze a board. Here in the US we run on tracks with boards, so the durability has to be realistic and based on running on those types of tracks.
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Old 10-08-2012, 03:43 PM   #551
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Do the Tamiya DCJ's fit? What's the part number on the kyosho o-ring and hpi shim?
Tamiya DCJ's are a perfect fit. With the Spec-R's you will need to add a .3mm shim on the inside of the pin to reduce play.
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Old 10-08-2012, 03:45 PM   #552
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Art, from the initial reports and offhand, I have seen one car running locally, it is typical Yokomo plastic. Hard, great molds, but slightly more brittle. No car matches XRAY's durability, period. On carpet, if you are gonna be smacking stuff, it's probably best to stay away. However, I saw you drive at the carpet nats, and you are a pretty damn good driver, I think durability is not something you have to don't have to be too worried about.

I don't own one, but I drove one from a buddy. The car is really good. I know people don't think cars make a difference, but I am not from that school of thought. This car is faster than most other cars out there. Part of it, is the plastics used, much like the Tamiya cars.
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Old 10-08-2012, 04:07 PM   #553
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Art, from the initial reports and offhand, I have seen one car running locally, it is typical Yokomo plastic. Hard, great molds, but slightly more brittle. No car matches XRAY's durability, period. On carpet, if you are gonna be smacking stuff, it's probably best to stay away. However, I saw you drive at the carpet nats, and you are a pretty damn good driver, I think durability is not something you have to don't have to be too worried about.

I don't own one, but I drove one from a buddy. The car is really good. I know people don't think cars make a difference, but I am not from that school of thought. This car is faster than most other cars out there. Part of it, is the plastics used, much like the Tamiya cars.
What CT says is true. Being from Hawaii and only running on carpet at the IIC once a year I had problems the first two days of practice. I broke 4 right chubs on those days. I was not pleased after the first two days but after changing the set up I did not brake anything for the next three days. Once you get this car right it is awesome. I seen every car under the sun brake some thing at the IIC and this car is no different. After my friend talked to the Yokomo team all was good, too bad it took us till Wednesday to get things pointed in the right direction. Great car! do not be afraid.
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Old 10-08-2012, 04:19 PM   #554
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No one at Xray likes me very much anyway, so I don't have to worry about pissing those guys off anymore then normal. I will drive whatever I want, as I brought two Xrays T3 2012s to Vegas and a Tamiya 417.

I am not an Xray Fan boy, but when a car works I am going to run it. The Xray works very well for me right now and provides a good racing platform. For one run I threw out my Tamiya in Vegas and found the car to need some work that I simply did not have time to do.

The Yokomo intrigues me, but the durability of the car concerns me for sure. Part of the reason I picked up an Xray was so that I could access to parts here in the US and not have to order from HK every week. Until Amain gets fully stocked and keeps it that way I will have to order from overseas. Parts availability has always been an issue with Yokomo in the past and I see that being an issue with this car as well.

An honest account of the durability would be nice especially from the front plastic part perspective. I would want to know that the car does not break every run if you just graze a board. Here in the US we run on tracks with boards, so the durability has to be realistic and based on running on those types of tracks.
I haven't been shy about it. I have already replaced a dcj, a right front carrier and a rear carrier. The DCJ and carrier were the same incident. The right rear carrier was running mod and got hit square on the wheel strong enough to break the carrier and the wheel. I'm pretty sure most other cars would have broke something there as well though if it cracked my wheel. I have had my car skip a tooth while driving in the servo horn. So go aluminum or servo saver. This has been on asphalt though. I ran the next weekend in 17.5 and didnt break anything and there was some contact. Now the only thing I can say is that i have yet to run it on carpet. Carpet boards are a lot less forgiving that our asphalt track.

That being said it would take a lot for me to switch to the Xray right now. This car is just so smooth and easy to drive.
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Old 10-08-2012, 04:22 PM   #555
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Originally Posted by artwork View Post
No one at Xray likes me very much anyway, so I don't have to worry about pissing those guys off anymore then normal. I will drive whatever I want, as I brought two Xrays T3 2012s to Vegas and a Tamiya 417.

I am not an Xray Fan boy, but when a car works I am going to run it. The Xray works very well for me right now and provides a good racing platform. For one run I threw out my Tamiya in Vegas and found the car to need some work that I simply did not have time to do.

The Yokomo intrigues me, but the durability of the car concerns me for sure. Part of the reason I picked up an Xray was so that I could access to parts here in the US and not have to order from HK every week. Until Amain gets fully stocked and keeps it that way I will have to order from overseas. Parts availability has always been an issue with Yokomo in the past and I see that being an issue with this car as well.

An honest account of the durability would be nice especially from the front plastic part perspective. I would want to know that the car does not break every run if you just graze a board. Here in the US we run on tracks with boards, so the durability has to be realistic and based on running on those types of tracks.
Don't say much about yourself admitting xray boys don't like u!!!!

I have only got graphite front hubs at the mo, I do have the graphite stuff just felt no need to change yet. Regarding strength.........
I ran my bd7 at the weekend first big meeting.... I did terrible, I thought it was just the set up so adjusted, nope thought it was me, nope I had gone the wrong way with set up both!!
My qualifying was the worst I think I have ever had I sorted my setup for the final (not far off stock) amazingly my fastest lap was .006 of the fastest of the day and I would have been just off the top of the main if only I had realised sooner my setup flaw! IDIOT
Durability: I think this car likes being soft, but all those that have jumped straight on the graphite wagon before trying.... madness ( my opinion at the mo until I have driven and felt the advantage) the car is planted and is stronge as fcuk u can physically flex the wishbones and it returns straight. I will say the servo horn is weak, the tiny teeth are made out of the flexible plastic mine jumped a tooth or two. If u wanna buy something that needs replacement get an alloy servo horn or saver.
I had a poor poor day I felt like I was bashing then drifting and then bashing again. The car put up with major abuse until my finals.... then it just sat back and stuck its fingers up and lapped everyone twice I think!

I never weighed the screws before fitting but it is a major saving in weight, the turnbuckles have not arrived so unsure as of that weight yet alloy rear shafts a must major weight saving.

Donot use lipo locaters they weigh too much, to retain your lipo's use Schumacher's u3569 lightly sand to scratch your lipo case and stick (obviously tape ur lipo in the car before sticking so ur lipo's in the right place I found it easiest to remove top deck to and get as far inboard without touching the belt)
My car weighed in at 1347 (with shell) before adding 5 grams in the center
To get above 1350.
Equipment used;
Ip true 70c lipo's weight 318g
Futaba bls551 servo 44g
Hobbywing v3
Sanwa 451 r rx
Orion 13.5 ( not the lightest of motors)
A Harry pt.
1 piece servo mount
Tit screws alloy rear shafts
Graphite hubs.
Sorry for long post J.
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