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Old 02-18-2015, 04:52 AM   #5476
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Hello guys. Just picked up and built a BD7 '15. First shake-down day last Sunday and I'm having an issue with the steering linkage. Both of the retaining screws on the center link are working loose from the bell cranks during normal steering. I haven't found any unusual binding, I can visually see the screws working loose as I manually move the linkage. I figured I can always loctite the lower points, or use longer screws and put locknuts on, but it seems like those are a bandaid fix and there is something else going wrong. Thoughts?
Personally, if it's going to be an ongoing issue I would just replace it. I have never experience that problem on any BD but that's not to say there isn't an issue with your component. I believe the part is B7-201LB is somewhere around $20.00 USD, small price to pay to ensure you finish a race. I remove the ones on my BD7 constantly and never had to loctite them.
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Old 02-18-2015, 05:32 AM   #5477
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Cups too tight. Loctite is not a band aid solution. It will retain the screws and they'll wear the cups to the point where they'll be loose enough that won't turn the screws with their movement.
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Old 02-18-2015, 06:03 AM   #5478
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Is it no. 201LB u are refering to?
If so do u use buttonhead or flathead screws?
Sometimes when i use flatheads the screw become a little loose, but thats only the courples of runs.
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Old 02-18-2015, 11:48 AM   #5479
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I have a BD7 2014 Black Edition for sale if anyone is interested. Tons of spares, alum and stock chassis. short and long shock conversion. Everything for Sale. Onroad Blowout.
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Old 02-18-2015, 01:38 PM   #5480
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
Cups too tight. Loctite is not a band aid solution. It will retain the screws and they'll wear the cups to the point where they'll be loose enough that won't turn the screws with their movement.
I'm not sure how the ball cups would effect that contact point. However, after taking it all apart I found that the bellcrank arms(202SB) and center link(201LB) weren't machined exactly right, or the loadbearings are the wrong width which was causing the two aluminum pieces to rub together which was torquing the screws loose then normal operation was loosening them until they fell off. I very small shim on top of the bellcranks was enough to keep the center link from making contact. About to test it tonight, it should be good to go.

Thanks for the suggestions everyone.
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Old 02-19-2015, 07:12 AM   #5481
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Questions??

Hello

Is there an aftermarket mount that would allow me to use
48p serpent/xray/associated spur gears (i have plenty)
in the bd7 or do i have to get the white pan gears?

or parts form another car that can work

Thanks

Last edited by Stuff Of Legend; 02-19-2015 at 09:19 AM. Reason: or....
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Old 02-19-2015, 12:07 PM   #5482
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Originally Posted by Stuff Of Legend View Post
Hello

Is there an aftermarket mount that would allow me to use
48p serpent/xray/associated spur gears (i have plenty)
in the bd7 or do i have to get the white pan gears?

or parts form another car that can work

Thanks
I use a serpent 48 pitch 69 tooth in my yok14, direct fit.
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Old 02-19-2015, 02:32 PM   #5483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuff Of Legend View Post
Hello

Is there an aftermarket mount that would allow me to use
48p serpent/xray/associated spur gears (i have plenty)
in the bd7 or do i have to get the white pan gears?

or parts form another car that can work

Thanks
I'm using CRC gears that I countersunk to use flathead screws and then shimmed the slight play from doing so.
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Old 02-19-2015, 04:56 PM   #5484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuff Of Legend View Post
Hello

Is there an aftermarket mount that would allow me to use
48p serpent/xray/associated spur gears (i have plenty)
in the bd7 or do i have to get the white pan gears?

or parts form another car that can work

Thanks
I use the arrow max gears
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Old 02-19-2015, 10:58 PM   #5485
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So I'm about to place an order for a 2015 BD7 but I've never owned a Yokomo so have some questions. I'm gonna get some spares like arms and c-hubs steering blocks. Are all bd7 suspension parts (especially the composite ones) throughout the BD7 models the same so far? I'm asking because shops list some items as "BD7" only without indicating the model year. Now for DCJs, Roche seems to be what most people get, but how do Spec-R compare (they have version 2 and P8, not sure the difference)? What about the ones that 3-racing makes? Most will work with the kit spool outdrives?

Thanks!
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Old 02-19-2015, 11:51 PM   #5486
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Good choice! Steering blocks c hubs and arms for Bd5 and bd7 all versions are exchangeable. The only exception to this is the new short arm conversion for bd7 2015 which are 1.5mm shorter however would fit all bd5 and bd7 as well. Then there is the graphite which is exactly the same mould with different material. Also there are 3 variants of rear arms with different shock mounting position. Stock is 39.5mm. C hubs come in 2, 4, or 6 degrees caster. Stock is 4 degrees. I don't think there is more to it!
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Old 02-20-2015, 01:01 AM   #5487
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rc_square24 as buzz777 has said all parts are interchangeable, in the kit comes with grafite parts so maybe you will need to order them as spares if you want to use them. i haven't tried the plastic ones, but with the grafite ones i have no problems in one year of racing, only change worn parts.

And now my question, I have just moved to a new place and the lcoal club race in carpet so after 15 years doing only asphalt it seems that i have to change. Is going to be low-medium grip and at the beginning I will be racing 17.5 blinky, so I need a setup.After checking internet setups I have arrived to some conclusion can you tell em if this could be a good starting setup.

front
shocks, 450 cst, 3 holes 1.1, 20% rebound, pink spring, black bladder.
standard toe blocks, camber 1.5, toe out 1, droop 6mm (under block)
No roll center shims, short camber links
0.5 bumper steer, 1 mm ackerman
Ride height 5.2mm
Spool, 4 degree c hubs

Rear
shocks, 450 cst, 3 holes 1.1, 20% rebound, blue spring, black bladder.
standard toe blocks, camber 1.5, toe out 3, droop 5mm (under block)
No roll center shims, short camber links
3000 cst in the rear diff
Ride height 5.4mm

Body, mazda 6 speed
Tires, sorex 28 with black insert
All plastic parts are grafite, and I am using roche dcj in front
Esc Muchmore ETS, Motor MuchMore 17.5T timming 20, Ratio 4.5


Thanks
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Old 02-20-2015, 01:17 AM   #5488
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Would go for a slightly different setup. 500 shock oil all round (no bumps on carpet) and if you feel you need front to be less aggressive go for Blue spring fronts as well.

Front and rear 0.5mm or even 1mm spacer under camber both ends.

Rear camber 2 degrees

5mm front ride height

5.2mm rear ride height

4.5 rear droop
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Old 02-20-2015, 02:28 AM   #5489
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Thanks Buzz,

i will start with that and hope the cars feel nice from the beginning, coming from racing in open outdoors tracks with laps over 20 seconds racing in short indoor tracks is going to be a challenge.

cheers
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Old 02-20-2015, 02:34 AM   #5490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buzz777 View Post
4.5 rear droop
car has ton of front-end off throttle. Start with 5mm rear droop then go to 4.5mm if you need more.
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