onroad dude

iTrader: (13)

thanks for the vid! i guess i just feel like the arms would be angled up huge all the time with the setups they post is all..

bigbank66

iTrader: (2)

Cool...im running on asphalt an i need all the corner speed i can get...we have a lot of 180 turns on our track..

bigbank66

iTrader: (2)

I cant find the silver hpi spring anywhere....is there another spring similar out there??? Or do someone has a set they want to sell??

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

TQRC has them

onroad dude

iTrader: (13)

i would say order up a oneway for the front if thats the case

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Hey Folks

something weird happening to my car - top shock caps sitting askew on the shock bodies...

I've inspected the thread on the shock body, replaced the cap by a brand spanking new one (thinking I had stripped the thread), and, well, it still doesn't sit "flat". What's weird is that it sits flat when I assemble it "empty" with no bladder and top plastic mount... but when assembled for real, it's tilted. Of course, that shock leaks. The delta is about half a millimeter from one side of the shock body to the other.

Any suggestions? I'm really puzzled on this one

Thanks
Paul

reg

Mine were the same when I fitted them dry,when I built them though for real I just did them up as tight as I could and they are fine,if you have 2 sets just go for it,but you won't stip them,

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Replace bladders with black ones if you haven't already

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Brand spanking new black ones on top of (actually, below...) brand spanking new top caps

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Have you pushed the piston up into the shock before placing the plastic shock cap into the bladder ?

Govert

Do it like this:

Fill the shocks. Set your rebound (if zero rebound) push the piston up till you have 2mm left between your shock end and your shock. I use an old Xray caster clip to make sure it is 2mm http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...2,1mm%20%20(2)

Keep your piston/shock shaft pushed in, with the caster clip in between. After that, slowly, gently, slide your bladder in its place. Let it sink by itself. After that gently push the bladder down until it sits in its place.
Now, this is important, put the cap end (plastic top part) on the bladder and push the cap end down and thus your bladder as well. Hold it like that and just push a little bit, let the excessive oil leak out and just turn the cap end a few times, making sure everything sits fine and does not bind or sticks out too much. So hold the cap end down, still pushing the shock shaft up, and now take the cap nut and put it on the thread. First turn the opposite direction, against the thread, in this way you will "find" the start of the thread. After that, screw the cap nut on, while still pressing down the cap end (gently). Keep doing this until everything sits fine. Check rebound and you're done...

fasfury

..

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

you pretty much exactly described how i do my shocks, except i dont turn the top plastic part onto the bladder before screwing the top cap on... i use a 3mm shim too that i built from old fuel tubing... and my plastic tops are drilled for no parasitic rebound.

it s always that one same shock where the top sits sideways... but the thread looks fine both on body side (hard anodized) and top cap ( brand new...)... thinking about defectove machining now...

mac853

Could anybody tell me if Yokomo BD7 High Traction Upper Deck (YOK-B7-003H) fits on BD7 2015, please?

Best regards

reg

Does anyone know which is the bigger weight saving,
Ti turn buckles or ti screw kit?