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Old 10-23-2014, 04:00 PM   #4816
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Anybody else experiencing tight movement between the shock end ball cup and shock end ball stud?
Mine were tight at first but became free after a couple of race days.
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Old 10-23-2014, 04:30 PM   #4817
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Hi Craig,

The 500GOB oring that arrived was black in colour and appeared to be neoprene. Whilst the 500GOB appear to be the same dimensions as the kyosho P5 oring it was not the same material. Worked fine at first but didn't last.

Kyosho P5s are orange in colour and I have not yet seen one effected by diff oil.
Sorry I thought GOB was the orange yokomo ones. They appear to be the same as p5, and I've had them swell and bind unfortunately. Its strange because they work perfectly in the Tamiya diff
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Old 10-23-2014, 05:02 PM   #4818
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Same oil?

I've never had the tamiya/kyosho ones swell - unless - you get brake cleaner near them! Then they increase in size dramatically. I've used VG and Muchmore oil - opposite ends of the spectrum.

A few weeks sitting around and they go back to normal size.
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Old 10-23-2014, 05:13 PM   #4819
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must be a Sydney thing
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Old 10-23-2014, 05:16 PM   #4820
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Sorry I thought GOB was the orange yokomo ones. They appear to be the same as p5, and I've had them swell and bind unfortunately. Its strange because they work perfectly in the Tamiya diff
Which oil have you used.

I used the kyosho P5s with Nova oil kyosho oil and xceed without any issues.

The black GOB was used with xceed only.
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Old 10-23-2014, 07:35 PM   #4821
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Anyone know how many holes I can cut the body posts down by so they're not too long?

I thought I would ask before I mount them and check to save myself a bit of time

Cheers
Nathan
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Old 10-24-2014, 12:23 AM   #4822
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Shocks came with the 1 clear o-ring and large black insert
Geez I was going to buy Yokomo but not so sure, bit worried !!!!!
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Old 10-24-2014, 12:27 AM   #4823
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Geez I was going to buy Yokomo but not so sure, bit worried !!!!!
Don't worry it is a great car. Built to be super fast but with 1 shock oring the shocks are super free and smooth but requires frequent shock rebuilds.

For club racers the extra oring increases the life of the shock.
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Old 10-24-2014, 01:30 PM   #4824
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How do you measure droop to reflect the Yok set-up sheet
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Old 10-24-2014, 02:49 PM   #4825
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The verdict. .. fast
Using the same setup us my 14 I set a pb in qualifying. And only 2 seconds off the state champ.. (TQ was a mod driver so he doesn't count)
The car carries more corner speed and puts the power down quicker. Overall just quicker.

No diff leak yet

Two thumbs up for me.

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Old 10-24-2014, 03:42 PM   #4826
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How do you measure droop to reflect the Yok set-up sheet
droop gauge to the bottom of the arm or ruler to the centre of the pin to the setup board,
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Old 10-24-2014, 03:47 PM   #4827
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Originally Posted by evochick View Post
The verdict. .. fast
Using the same setup us my 14 I set a pb in qualifying. And only 2 seconds off the state champ.. (TQ was a mod driver so he doesn't count)
The car carries more corner speed and puts the power down quicker. Overall just quicker.

No diff leak yet

Two thumbs up for me.

Beth.
Could you post your set up please
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Old 10-24-2014, 03:49 PM   #4828
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droop gauge to the bottom of the arm or ruler to the centre of the pin to the setup board,
Could you post a pic of this please
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Old 10-24-2014, 07:07 PM   #4829
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Everyone measures droop differently, the most practical way is to measure droop over ride height. For example if you run 5mm ride height and you want 2mm of droop, you would adjust your down stop screw so that as you lift the chassis you can achieve 7mm of clearance before your wheels lift.
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Old 10-25-2014, 12:55 AM   #4830
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Originally Posted by John.C View Post
Everyone measures droop differently, the most practical way is to measure droop over ride height. For example if you run 5mm ride height and you want 2mm of droop, you would adjust your down stop screw so that as you lift the chassis you can achieve 7mm of clearance before your wheels lift.
That is not a way of measuring, but the effect achieved. Doesn't matter how you measure it, it's all the same. The only point I would make is that changing suspension things such as say adding anti squat (or adding/taking out shims under the suspension blocks) can throw off your droop measuring system (it's not going to be consistent with previous measuring under the arm) if you measure under the arm. I always measure to the axle centre because that is always going to be in the same position in relation to the wheel circumference no matter what else you change in the suspension.
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