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Old 10-23-2014, 03:37 AM   #4801
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1. It could be OK with an 7.5. I race in an 8th track and a mate is using in mod a 10.5T with lots of turbo and it's having good results. In my opinion with an 6.5T in most of the track people will be quicker than with a 4.5T , pinion?, it depends of the seetings of the speedo. And yes, you should cath a fan for the motor

2. Yes, but you will have some space issues to instal the receiver

3. Yokomo are very hard, I have stock of plastic parts and belts of every car that I've got

4. In summer you can skip it, in winter it's a must as long as warmers. One thing tha people don't have in mind is that the additive increase tire life.

5. If it is good tape it will be more than enough, maybe in some serius crashes you could have one problem, but the idea is not to crash!!!

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Old 10-23-2014, 07:21 AM   #4802
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Anybody else experiencing tight movement between the shock end ball cup and shock end ball stud?
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Old 10-23-2014, 07:24 AM   #4803
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Almost done
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Old 10-23-2014, 07:26 AM   #4804
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.
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Old 10-23-2014, 07:28 AM   #4805
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I ordered the 15 edition already and it's on its way now
Is it really that much of problems building a perfect yokomo?
I think I need know before decided to go on building it or just sell it
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Old 10-23-2014, 07:31 AM   #4806
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..
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Old 10-23-2014, 07:42 AM   #4807
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...
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Old 10-23-2014, 08:33 AM   #4808
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donnie_p View Post
I ordered the 15 edition already and it's on its way now
Is it really that much of problems building a perfect yokomo?
I think I need know before decided to go on building it or just sell it
My 2014 went together easily. Manual it's japanesse style good but naybe not as good as xray ones. In my opinion build it and enjoy it.

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Old 10-23-2014, 08:40 AM   #4809
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Standard servo should be fine since the footprint of Tekin RS is fairly small. For FDR right around 6.5 -7.0 check motor temp since the track your running on is big... As for spare parts just stock some Arms, Hubs and specially belt. Belt take a lot of abuse on a big track.
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Old 10-23-2014, 08:49 AM   #4810
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dawgmeat View Post
Anybody else experiencing tight movement between the shock end ball cup and shock end ball stud?
Yes, you'll need to polish the pivot balls for the shock end/cap. You're most likely experiencing binding in the rear anti roll bar mounts. You'll need to polish those as well. The upper camber and steering links were about the only things that didn't bind.

Quote:
Originally Posted by donnie_p View Post
I ordered the 15 edition already and it's on its way now
Is it really that much of problems building a perfect yokomo?
I think I need know before decided to go on building it or just sell it
You'll need to upgrade the shock internal to build them correctly. I'm not sure if these upgrades are included in the 2015. You'll need to upgrade the o-rings on your gear diff. No matter what you do you'll find that they leak. You'll need to polish the ball ends (see above). You'll need to sand the plastic/CF reinforced arms/hubs/knuckles to prevent them from binding up. You may also need to grind down the steering bridge post and the motor mount to prevent the chassis from tweaking.
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Old 10-23-2014, 08:53 AM   #4811
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John.C View Post
Yes, you'll need to polish the pivot balls for the shock end/cap. You're most likely experiencing binding in the rear anti roll bar mounts. You'll need to polish those as well. The upper camber and steering links were about the only things that didn't bind.



You'll need to upgrade the shock internal to build them correctly. I'm not sure if these upgrades are included in the 2015. You'll need to upgrade the o-rings on your gear diff. No matter what you do you'll find that they leak. You'll need to polish the ball ends (see above). You'll need to sand the plastic/CF reinforced arms/hubs/knuckles to prevent them from binding up. You may also need to grind down the steering bridge post and the motor mount to prevent the chassis from tweaking.
Shocks came with the 1 clear o-ring and large black insert
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Old 10-23-2014, 08:58 AM   #4812
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dawgmeat View Post
Shocks came with the 1 clear o-ring and large black insert
You'll need the following.

YOK-BD-S2W
P3 O-Ring Coller(Thin)

YOK-YS-7HG
High Grade O-Ring (Oil-Free)

YOK-YS-8HD
Fluorine Rubber Hyper Diaphragm
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Old 10-23-2014, 09:37 AM   #4813
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John.C View Post
You'll need the following.

YOK-BD-S2W
P3 O-Ring Coller(Thin)

YOK-YS-7HG
High Grade O-Ring (Oil-Free)

YOK-YS-8HD
Fluorine Rubber Hyper Diaphragm
I have everything but the YOK-YS-8HD Fluorine Rubber Hyper Diaphragm, I used the blue O-rings instead of the large insert, the small insert w/the 2 O-rings was too tight for my liking
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Old 10-23-2014, 03:50 PM   #4814
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dawgmeat View Post
Anybody else experiencing tight movement between the shock end ball cup and shock end ball stud?
No, but I use the B7-S8H ball studs.... I cant recommend these enough..


Quote:
Originally Posted by donnie_p View Post
I ordered the 15 edition already and it's on its way now
Is it really that much of problems building a perfect yokomo?
I think I need know before decided to go on building it or just sell it
No, my 15 went together much better then my old 13/14 did......
It required much less or no shimming on everything.

As a minimum for a build I would buy
B7-S8H
YS-7HG
YS-8HD
BD-S2W
B7-203B (or Roche equivalent)
Roche CVD's
BD-500GOB (experiment for yourself you prefer these over the kit red or Kyosho)

everything else is just a nice to have depending on how much bling you want.

If you don't buy B7-BTCB you can just use 0.1 or 0.2mm shims on the bulk head caps to stop the bearings from being tight.

that's all I can think of for the min...

Its race day....

Beth.
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Old 10-23-2014, 03:53 PM   #4815
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John.C View Post
Yes, you'll need to polish the pivot balls for the shock end/cap. You're most likely experiencing binding in the rear anti roll bar mounts. You'll need to polish those as well. The upper camber and steering links were about the only things that didn't bind.



You'll need to upgrade the shock internal to build them correctly. I'm not sure if these upgrades are included in the 2015. You'll need to upgrade the o-rings on your gear diff. No matter what you do you'll find that they leak. You'll need to polish the ball ends (see above). You'll need to sand the plastic/CF reinforced arms/hubs/knuckles to prevent them from binding up. You may also need to grind down the steering bridge post and the motor mount to prevent the chassis from tweaking.
Built 2 bd7 2014 and neither require sanding of the plastics.

The arms, c hubs knuckles and uprights are the best of the best, a perfect fit with just a touch of play.

Steering post and motor mount were perfect on my cars and I have never heard of anyone grinding them.

How did they create tweak on your car, were they miss manufactured?
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