8LikesYOKOMO Touring Car BD-7
09-30-2014, 12:27 AM
#4621
I did something similar by buying a BD7RS and upgrading it to a 2014. Total cost under the price of a kit, with everything (including bulkheads, damper stays, dampers, motor mount, etc).
09-30-2014, 01:08 AM
#4622
hmm.. also arms etc. in graphite? thats new included in the 2015....
And there are some other parts you may need but isnt included in RS or 2015 like:
Rubber Hyper Diaphragm
High Grade O-Ring
P3 O Ring Coller (Thin)
Double Joint Drive Shafts
SLF short shocks
.......
09-30-2014, 02:08 AM
#4623
This is my take on the 2015:
New diff case to fix the leaking diff, roll bar stopper w cosmetic change, x braces to help with flexi bulkheads on the 2 mm narrower chassis. New motor mount that don't break.
New lighter front spool, optimized shock angle on shock towers and the ability to move motor mount forward on the new chassis.
New diff case to fix the leaking diff, roll bar stopper w cosmetic change, x braces to help with flexi bulkheads on the 2 mm narrower chassis. New motor mount that don't break.
New lighter front spool, optimized shock angle on shock towers and the ability to move motor mount forward on the new chassis.
09-30-2014, 02:37 AM
#4624
Same for C-hubs, etc.
Everything else (that doesn't come in the full blown kit) you would have to buy even if you get the kit, so where's the gain?
Yokomo got it wrong by not including the DCJ driveshafts in the kit. That's another 50$ to spend if you buy their kit which basically means you spend above the cost of an Xray/Tamiya kit to bring the BD7 on par. Plus DCJ compatible C-hubs (not that the kit ones can't be used).
And if you want another gear diff (for the front) you have another 50$ to spend.
09-30-2014, 02:54 AM
#4625
Yokomo got it wrong by not including the DCJ driveshafts in the kit. That's another 50$ to spend if you buy their kit which basically means you spend above the cost of an Xray/Tamiya kit to bring the BD7 on par. Plus DCJ compatible C-hubs (not that the kit ones can't be used).
09-30-2014, 04:02 AM
#4626
The plastic arms work fine (on my track they're actually the arm used by all Yok drivers), and you're buying those as spares anyway, so you can get whatever you like.
Same for C-hubs, etc.
Everything else (that doesn't come in the full blown kit) you would have to buy even if you get the kit, so where's the gain?
Yokomo got it wrong by not including the DCJ driveshafts in the kit. That's another 50$ to spend if you buy their kit which basically means you spend above the cost of an Xray/Tamiya kit to bring the BD7 on par. Plus DCJ compatible C-hubs (not that the kit ones can't be used).
And if you want another gear diff (for the front) you have another 50$ to spend.
Same for C-hubs, etc.
Everything else (that doesn't come in the full blown kit) you would have to buy even if you get the kit, so where's the gain?
Yokomo got it wrong by not including the DCJ driveshafts in the kit. That's another 50$ to spend if you buy their kit which basically means you spend above the cost of an Xray/Tamiya kit to bring the BD7 on par. Plus DCJ compatible C-hubs (not that the kit ones can't be used).
And if you want another gear diff (for the front) you have another 50$ to spend.
enjoy racing!
09-30-2014, 06:39 AM
#4627
Went ahead and pre ordered one from mibosport.
The new 2015 seems to come with aluminum front axles now. I ran standard and and DCJ on the 2014 and didn't notice that huge of a difference in times but car is smoother on power out of the apex.
The TRF kits comes with everything, tamiya doesn't nickle and dime you as bad as other brands Dcj, carbon bumper, floating servo, aluminum rear axle, ti coated shock shaft, 418 came with extra spares, great car on carpet.
The new 2015 seems to come with aluminum front axles now. I ran standard and and DCJ on the 2014 and didn't notice that huge of a difference in times but car is smoother on power out of the apex.
The TRF kits comes with everything, tamiya doesn't nickle and dime you as bad as other brands Dcj, carbon bumper, floating servo, aluminum rear axle, ti coated shock shaft, 418 came with extra spares, great car on carpet.
09-30-2014, 06:43 AM
#4628
I also don't get that we don't get (crucial) updates proven to be absolutely needed OOB this time either. Like DCJ's up front, or alu rears. The floating servo mount? Is it still an option with the '15? And why not gear diffs for both front and rear? A front gear diff can be made almost spool solid w/o the tear and ripping effect of the solid spool.
I guess the make the big bucks from the options and the spare parts. Nevertheless, I'm sticking with Yokomo, and I'll probably stick with my '13.
I guess the make the big bucks from the options and the spare parts. Nevertheless, I'm sticking with Yokomo, and I'll probably stick with my '13.
09-30-2014, 08:17 AM
#4632
Given that you guys are in the US where I hear spec classes are the majority, you might want to run Tamiya DCJ which I can confirm fit the BD7. Mine is running them because I also changed to the Tamiya 37 pulleys to reduce the internal ratio (spec class bliny 13.5). I used the Tamiya spool shaft as well simply because I had one.
