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Old 06-16-2014, 05:09 PM   #4171
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Originally Posted by Carranza76 View Post
Looking for a good gearing suggestions for 17.5

Running the following:
Tekin Gen2
Reedy 17.5 first Gen motor

Right now I am geared 116/38

I am new to on road so is there a FDR I should stick to with this car? any help would be greatly appreciated.
I'd start around a 3.85-3.95 watching temps and I'm assuming Blinky with motor timing cranked up
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Old 06-16-2014, 05:14 PM   #4172
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I'd start around a 3.85-3.95 watching temps and I'm assuming Blinky with motor timing cranked up
Yes blinky with timing cranked up. Much appreciated!
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Old 06-16-2014, 07:34 PM   #4173
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Yes blinky with timing cranked up. Much appreciated!
That 116 spur is for mod
You will need a smaller one for 17.5

Try a 96 spur
48-50 pinion

I would also recommend an R1 fan to keep temps manageable
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Old 06-17-2014, 08:28 AM   #4174
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That 116 spur is for mod
You will need a smaller one for 17.5

Try a 96 spur
48-50 pinion

I would also recommend an R1 fan to keep temps manageable
I have a fan on it. Tekin fan that i bought a long time ago.

I saw a set up with a 115/38 and one with a 108/34 (something like that)

So i thought I could make it work, Plan on hitting TQ tomorrow night for my fisrt run. Hopefully I can get the spur/pinion I need from there to put them in real quick.


Redbull I sent you a PM.
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Old 06-17-2014, 08:49 AM   #4175
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Originally Posted by Carranza76 View Post
I have a fan on it. Tekin fan that i bought a long time ago.

I saw a set up with a 115/38 (6:1) and one with a 108/34 (6.3:1) (something like that)

So i thought I could make it work, Plan on hitting TQ tomorrow night for my fisrt run. Hopefully I can get the spur/pinion I need from there to put them in real quick.


Redbull I sent you a PM.
Seems most 17.5 racers are recommending something in the range of high 3:1 ratio. (3.9:1) thru (3.7:1)
Look at the last page of your BD7 instructions
There is a gear chart
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Old 06-17-2014, 11:43 AM   #4176
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Installed front stabilizers on my RS today. Unlike the rear the front has all the necessary hardware.

Its interesting that the blue anodized pieces in this kit vary so drastically in colour. One piece is close to associated blue and the other is almost indigo blue.
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Old 06-17-2014, 05:50 PM   #4177
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finally got a chance to drive and make some setup changes everyone suggested a few weeks ago, and I really wish I listened to Craig at the time

The 15gram weights on both sides at the front make a huge difference, turn in was certainly improved, and felt more stable. oh well you live and learn...

The other change I mage was to move the front arms full back with the 1mm shim at the front, I think this just helped overall rotation.

If like me you think paying $30 for the Yokomo weights is a bit silly, a 10g and 5g lead weight fit perfectly, the only advantage the Yokomo weight would be is its screwed in.

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Old 06-17-2014, 07:17 PM   #4178
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finally got a chance to drive and make some setup changes everyone suggested a few weeks ago, and I really wish I listened to Craig at the time

The 15gram weights on both sides at the front make a huge difference, turn in was certainly improved, and felt more stable. oh well you live and learn...

The other change I mage was to move the front arms full back with the 1mm shim at the front, I think this just helped overall rotation.

If like me you think paying $30 for the Yokomo weights is a bit silly, a 10g and 5g lead weight fit perfectly, the only advantage the Yokomo weight would be is its screwed in.

Beth.
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Old 06-17-2014, 09:30 PM   #4179
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Not only are the front weights screw in, they are floating as well. The only point they touch the chassis is where they screw into. The rest of the weight floats above the chassis so as not to alter flex.
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Old 06-17-2014, 10:04 PM   #4180
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Not only are the front weights screw in, they are floating as well. The only point they touch the chassis is where they screw into. The rest of the weight floats above the chassis so as not to alter flex.
Yeah they are nice. But $30 nice? Does 3racing or anyone else make similar weight that can be screwed in?
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Old 06-17-2014, 10:18 PM   #4181
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I guess there is a lot of part snobbery here. I don't see why one can't use some bland piece of metal with a threaded hole ground to size and screwed to the chassis using a small spacer (or a shim) if chassis flex is a concern (which I don't think it should be). Or just a screw with a nut and a number of oversize washers. Much easier to tune as well by adding or taking away washers. Or just good ol' wheel balancing weights with double sided tape.

Of course this is not going to increase sales of nicknacks from major manufacturers at overinflated prices.
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Old 06-17-2014, 10:24 PM   #4182
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Expensive, but a typical price for brass weights. Just look up Serpant and XRay prices for their brass weights. These weights are from the BD5 days, so if you had them laying around they simply bolt into this car. But yeah, if you don't want to spend the money then just get the 3Racing graphite looking sticky tape weights. Cheap and easy. That's what I use under my Rx.
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Old 06-17-2014, 10:27 PM   #4183
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Basically put, it's just a hobby. Customize and tune as you see fit.
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Old 06-17-2014, 10:35 PM   #4184
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Any Yok drivers run the Sweep 36's from the Reedy Race? I was just wondering how they perform. I was wanting to try some this weekend against my Sorex 36s.
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Old 06-17-2014, 11:23 PM   #4185
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I personally prefer Sorex to Sweeps.
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