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Old 06-02-2014, 06:23 PM   #4096
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Hi Everyone, need some suggestions,
I finally made an A final at a large event in touring car and finished 7th, but I think my setup could be better, I am still getting lots of push on corner entry, I noticed I am having to break earlier than everyone else just to get the noise of the car pointed. I had superior mid and exit corner speed which helped the over all lap time.

I was hesitant to change too many things during the event as the car was super stable and easy to drive (which helps a noob like me)

I already have some thoughts on things to change, but I just wanted some second opinions..

EDIT : Just noticed I had the wrong front blocks written down, they are the 3.5 kit blocks I was using

Thanks.
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Old 06-02-2014, 07:01 PM   #4097
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By Looking at it really quick:
-Higher rear ride height
-Narrower Front (at least use the 43.5 blocks in the fr)
-Lighter Rear diff oil
-More Front Camber
-Maybe 1-1.5mm more ackerman shims
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Old 06-02-2014, 07:32 PM   #4098
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Yeah, I would run 44.2/43.5 front blocks to get some arm sweep. Do you have any weight up front? If you notice, the Yokomo guys run 30g up front 15g per side. Other than that, everything that Cristian said. If its corner entry off-power, you can go to 4mm rear droop and try that out real quick.
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Old 06-02-2014, 07:39 PM   #4099
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Yeah, I would run 44.2/43.5 front blocks to get some arm sweep. Do you have any weight up front? If you notice, the Yokomo guys run 30g up front 15g per side. Other than that, everything that Cristian said. If its corner entry off-power, you can go to 4mm rear droop and try that out real quick.
Sorry fixed, I was running 43.5 in the end, I didn't like the car with sweep or the wider front (I tried both on practice)

And yes the next battery's ill be running are the lighter Orca, so I was going to try the extra weight at the front.

Car was also still quicker overall with the 3K rear diff oil compared to the 2K.
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Old 06-02-2014, 07:50 PM   #4100
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Originally Posted by evochick View Post
Sorry fixed, I was running 43.5 in the end, I didn't like the car with sweep or the wider front (I tried both on practice)

And yes the next battery's ill be running are the lighter Orca, so I was going to try the extra weight at the front.

Car was also still quicker overall with the 3K rear diff oil compared to the 2K.
You running direct servo horn or a servo saver?
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Old 06-02-2014, 08:04 PM   #4101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evochick View Post
Hi Everyone, need some suggestions,
I finally made an A final at a large event in touring car and finished 7th, but I think my setup could be better, I am still getting lots of push on corner entry, I noticed I am having to break earlier than everyone else just to get the noise of the car pointed. I had superior mid and exit corner speed which helped the over all lap time.

I was hesitant to change too many things during the event as the car was super stable and easy to drive (which helps a noob like me)

I already have some thoughts on things to change, but I just wanted some second opinions..

EDIT : Just noticed I had the wrong front blocks written down, they are the 3.5 kit blocks I was using

Thanks.
More Camber gain, take away inside link shims
.5mm more ackerman
1m front diff wouldn't hurt

but, if you want to try a big change, move front arms back

I like arm sweep, but it can be a somewhat aggressive change which works better with subtle steering movements, not for everyone. just imo
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Old 06-02-2014, 08:11 PM   #4102
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You running direct servo horn or a servo saver?
Servo savers are evil..... I don't even run one in my F1 car.
Just using the long Yokomo alloy horn.
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Old 06-02-2014, 08:22 PM   #4103
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Yeah, I was thinking more camber gain as well. Speaking of which, does anyone know which ball studs Volker and Hara use on the front and rear inner links? They are definitely shorter and they can run more camber gain than a kit car can with standard ballstuds.
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Old 06-02-2014, 09:35 PM   #4104
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I doubt the factory guys use them but I have some of these still from my TC6.1, probably shortest you can get. ill give them a try.

http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...all-Stud-Set-2
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Old 06-02-2014, 10:01 PM   #4105
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I was looking at those last night, but I'm gonna try some of my old Cyclone ballstudes that I ran on my original BD. Not sure if they are shorter or not, but I'll see.

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Old 06-02-2014, 10:15 PM   #4106
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Originally Posted by JimmyMac View Post
Yeah, I was thinking more camber gain as well. Speaking of which, does anyone know which ball studs Volker and Hara use on the front and rear inner links? They are definitely shorter and they can run more camber gain than a kit car can with standard ballstuds.
The rear sway bar ball studs
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Old 06-02-2014, 10:17 PM   #4107
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Originally Posted by evochick View Post
Sorry fixed, I was running 43.5 in the end, I didn't like the car with sweep or the wider front (I tried both on practice)


Car was also still quicker overall with the 3K rear diff oil compared to the 2K.
Well, the question was what gives more entry steering, not what would make the car faster

The most effective remedy for lack of turn- in in high to low speed areas is going to be more Ackerman shims, followed by perhaps a gear diff. The Ackerman change will be an isolated adjustment that should not change the behavior of your car in other aspects like the gear diff though. All the other suggestions will make marginal changes, but for example, more camber gain will not necessarily give a noticeable amount of increased grip at the beginning of a corner, but can give more steering in the middle and exit depending on the type of tire.

AE ballstuds, including our TC aluminum ones can all be used to lower the inside camber links for more camber gain. They are the same sized ball.
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Old 06-02-2014, 10:33 PM   #4108
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The rear sway bar ball studs
D'oH! ..... thanks.....
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Old 06-03-2014, 02:06 AM   #4109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evochick View Post
Sorry fixed, I was running 43.5 in the end, I didn't like the car with sweep or the wider front (I tried both on practice)

And yes the next battery's ill be running are the lighter Orca, so I was going to try the extra weight at the front.

Car was also still quicker overall with the 3K rear diff oil compared to the 2K.
I ran my car at 1440 with the weight up front, makes a huge difference, who cares about being over!

Try the weight, short front wheelbase, bump steer, lower camber links (kit), 3 deg rear toe, and more drag brake
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Old 06-04-2014, 10:38 AM   #4110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyMac View Post
Yeah, I would run 44.2/43.5 front blocks to get some arm sweep. Do you have any weight up front? If you notice, the Yokomo guys run 30g up front 15g per side. Other than that, everything that Cristian said. If its corner entry off-power, you can go to 4mm rear droop and try that out real quick.
What does adding the weight in the front of the car do?
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