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Old 02-13-2014, 04:02 PM   #3676
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Yokomo have signed Shin Adachi into their team.
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Old 02-17-2014, 01:14 AM   #3677
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Has anyone durability tested the new clipped DCJs yet? I was hoping they would be more durable but they are still arrowmax (v2) from the look of it
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Old 02-17-2014, 01:40 AM   #3678
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Has anyone durability tested the new clipped DCJs yet? I was hoping they would be more durable but they are still arrowmax (v2) from the look of it
I have been running them since IMCC cup, and yeah in stock they have started to wear and get a little sloppy already. The bone and axle parts are the same as the old ones. The only up side is the clips are really strong and I haven't had one move yet..

The Tamiya ones were certainly more durable if only they didn't wear the drive cup so badly
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Old 02-17-2014, 02:42 AM   #3679
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That's sad to hear. I ordered some and they should be here tomorrow. I've been running the SpecR V2 ones. I didn't like the fact that the pins (that slide into the spool cups) are smaller diameter than the regular bone pins. This made for a lot of slop. They have lasted though and I've only had the SpecR pop out once when I briefly clipped the wall last weekend. I think it was a rare freak thing. I ran them again today (yesterday/Sunday) and they held up just fine. I guess I'll get to test the new Yokomo ones this coming weekend. (This is all 17.5 blinky indoor carpet.)

What kind of lube are you guys/gals running inside the joints? I've been running MuchMore Joint Lube but I would like to try the XRay graphite stuff. Also be sure to run some lube on the pins and cups. This helps a lot with wear. I remember this when the BD5 had aluminum rear diff without blades. Sucked until I ran white lube on the pins/outdrives. Maybe try that with the spool too?
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Old 02-17-2014, 03:41 AM   #3680
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I didn't like the fact that the pins (that slide into the spool cups) are smaller diameter than the regular bone pins. This made for a lot of slop.
Yeah the same problem with the Tamiya's, I used 46mm Tamiya bones which were little longer so this made sure they would never pop out.

Since I have lots of Associated cars I have just been using their black grease, probably not the best but better than nothing.
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Old 02-17-2014, 12:21 PM   #3681
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The xenon blue grease is the best stuff for use on the axles where they contact drive cups.
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Old 02-17-2014, 02:34 PM   #3682
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Damn looks like I wasted my cash, should have gone with the Roche ones

I use the mm joint lube too. Our tracks can be quite dusty so the black grease turns into grinding paste pretty quick
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Old 02-17-2014, 08:14 PM   #3683
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Roche was out of stock when I ordered my floating servo mount, otherwise I would have tried them. I just wonder though how the pins are. I'm not talking about the pins in the joint. I'm talking about the pins that contact the drive cups on the spool. If there is a lot of slop or play, then you can wear them out quicker. Here are some pics:

SpecR pins.


Stock pins.


I wonder how thick Roche, 3Racing, and CSO pins are?
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Old 02-18-2014, 06:09 AM   #3684
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Is there any build tip for the 2014?
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Old 02-18-2014, 07:43 AM   #3685
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I've been running a DCJ set that Cristian (RSD) made for me using his axles with 3 Racing bones and they have no slop
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Old 02-18-2014, 07:48 AM   #3686
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I've been running a DCJ set that Cristian (RSD) made for me using his axles with 3 Racing bones and they have no slop

Is it avail for sale?
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Old 02-18-2014, 08:17 AM   #3687
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Is it avail for sale?
Contact him via PM or email.
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Old 02-18-2014, 07:51 PM   #3688
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Has anyone experimented with the different length rear arms and what effect they have on the car.
ie 39.5, 40.5, 41.5
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Old 02-18-2014, 09:33 PM   #3689
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Has anyone experimented with the different length rear arms and what effect they have on the car.
ie 39.5, 40.5, 41.5
Arms are all same length, Shock mount holes are in different positions
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Old 02-18-2014, 10:15 PM   #3690
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Thanks
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