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Old 01-29-2014, 07:51 AM   #3586
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Good going Evochick.

For those who rebuilt their rear differential with the Kyosho o-rings (KYOORG05) and found it to be a degree or two stiffer than expected (I believe Grapejuice said 1000 cst felt more like 2000 or 3000 cst), did it eventually break in and become more like what you were aiming for or did you have to return to the stock o-rings? I'm about 75% through the build on my BD7, but want to know if I should stop and re-do the differential now.
Mine never got any free'r, that's even running mod with it...I've also not had issues with my 2014 diff leaking with the stock o-rings.
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Old 01-29-2014, 07:53 AM   #3587
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It's going to be fascinating to see if Hara can compete with Volker, or vice versa. Also to see if Umino will "help" Hara as much as Volker etc.
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Old 01-29-2014, 08:32 AM   #3588
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Mine never got any free'r, that's even running mod with it...I've also not had issues with my 2014 diff leaking with the stock o-rings.
Well, then based on what you and Evochick have shared, I'll put the stock rings back in tonight. Now, I just need to figure out whether I stay with the 400 cst oil in the kit or go with something a little thicker.
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Old 01-29-2014, 08:49 AM   #3589
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the shop that I ordered the 2014 black series bd7 gave these to me today. was wondering if anyone else got one?

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Old 01-29-2014, 08:54 AM   #3590
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Well, then based on what you and Evochick have shared, I'll put the stock rings back in tonight. Now, I just need to figure out whether I stay with the 400 cst oil in the kit or go with something a little thicker.
I'm running 2k in my 2014 diff. And just be sure to use enough grease or whatever on the stock orings to seal them good. I used AE green slime, I put a ring of it in the diff case first, then cover the oring with it before putting it in the case, then once I slide the outdrive in I make sure there is pleanty of grease on top of the oring before putting the spacer on, then once the spacer is on wipe off any access that may have squezed out.
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Old 01-29-2014, 08:54 AM   #3591
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It's going to be fascinating to see if Hara can compete with Volker, or vice versa. Also to see if Umino will "help" Hara as much as Volker etc.
Wow cant wait for that race
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Old 01-29-2014, 10:17 AM   #3592
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Originally Posted by grapejuice View Post
I'm running 2k in my 2014 diff. And just be sure to use enough grease or whatever on the stock orings to seal them good. I used AE green slime, I put a ring of it in the diff case first, then cover the oring with it before putting it in the case, then once I slide the outdrive in I make sure there is pleanty of grease on top of the oring before putting the spacer on, then once the spacer is on wipe off any access that may have squezed out.
I have plenty of AE green slime, so this is exactly what I'll do. Thanks! You'll know whether I figured it out based on how much differential fluid you see me dropping at the track. Too bad I missed your Monday testing session.
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Old 01-29-2014, 10:20 AM   #3593
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Originally Posted by cyba888 View Post
the shop that I ordered the 2014 black series bd7 gave these to me today. was wondering if anyone else got one?

My 2014 Black Series BD7 just arrived from RC Market yesterday afternoon. There was no fan, nor was there a floating servo mount. Thankfully, I had already ordered these parts separately from another vendor.
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Old 01-29-2014, 10:37 AM   #3594
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If you are using the kyosho o rings then it is possible that the out drives are binding because the o ring is a little bigger.

Install the out drive but leave the pin out, the out drive should spin free now.
Install the pin, if this goes difficult then the out drive will not spin freely. It is possible that one out drive binds more then the other, this makes the car feel tweaked.

You have to sand the diff housing where the out drives exit the diff housing.
If you do that the out drives can get more inward which makes more room to install the pin without binding. The out drive should spin as free as possible with the pin installed.

Another solution would be to use a thinner washer which also leaves more room for the pin to be installed.
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Old 01-29-2014, 01:02 PM   #3595
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Wow cant wait for that race
Well you don't have long to wait, the race is this weekend with practice on Friday
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Old 01-29-2014, 01:20 PM   #3596
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Originally Posted by sitting duck View Post
If you are using the kyosho o rings then it is possible that the out drives are binding because the o ring is a little bigger.

Install the out drive but leave the pin out, the out drive should spin free now.
Install the pin, if this goes difficult then the out drive will not spin freely. It is possible that one out drive binds more then the other, this makes the car feel tweaked.

You have to sand the diff housing where the out drives exit the diff housing.
If you do that the out drives can get more inward which makes more room to install the pin without binding. The out drive should spin as free as possible with the pin installed.

Another solution would be to use a thinner washer which also leaves more room for the pin to be installed.
When I pull out the Kyosho o-rings tonight, I'll check how thick the stock washers are with my digital calipers. I'll give the stock setup a shot, but if it starts to leak then I'll follow your recommendation and get a thinner washer to use the Kyosho o-rings.

I never actually checked the differential action when dry and fresh out of the package to see whether the gears all synced up before I filled it with oil and replaced the o-rings. Oops. Hopefully, I won't need to file down any of the gears or get ahold of a thinner washer just to make it work with the stock o-rings.
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Old 01-29-2014, 07:44 PM   #3597
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This is why I change out the stock shims (0.3mm) to 0.1mm shims. My out drives spin freely with the Kyosho red orings before I assemble the diff together. So I know the red orings were not binding anything up. Maybe they squeezed the outdrive once assembled with the 0.3mm shims. I dunno, I may rebuild my gear diff just for the hell of it and put back in the kit orings and see how that goes. I've been using Mugen 2000 diff lube.
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Old 01-30-2014, 08:52 AM   #3598
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This is why I change out the stock shims (0.3mm) to 0.1mm shims.
Thank you for providing the shim thickness. I forgot to measure them last night during the rebuild. I put the stock o-rings back in, but made sure to coat them with some AE Green Slime before closing everything back up.

I made a real hack job of my attempt to shape up a Parma PSE universal bumper. Someone suggested using a hard foam Xray bumper, but a quick look at the bumper on my Xray T3 makes me think that the holes don't line up correctly. Does anyone have any suggestions on a strong, pre-made/fabricated bumper?
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Old 01-30-2014, 11:37 AM   #3599
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The front end from my 417 (maybe slightly forward or back, don't remember) and my t3 2012 were basically the same as my BD7. When I switched cars and used my old bodies the fronts lined up. only the rear body post position was different with the cars. That is atleast for me.
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Old 01-30-2014, 12:47 PM   #3600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colbynobo View Post
Thank you for providing the shim thickness. I forgot to measure them last night during the rebuild. I put the stock o-rings back in, but made sure to coat them with some AE Green Slime before closing everything back up.

I made a real hack job of my attempt to shape up a Parma PSE universal bumper. Someone suggested using a hard foam Xray bumper, but a quick look at the bumper on my Xray T3 makes me think that the holes don't line up correctly. Does anyone have any suggestions on a strong, pre-made/fabricated bumper?
The Tamiya 416-8 bumpers are almost a plug and play solution. They are thinner so you will need to cut the ribs on the body mount to slide the bumper brace on. Awesomatix USA offers a hard bumper option for their car which is a Tamiya 416-8 bumper. Your other option is the hard bumper for the T3 by Xray or RSD. You will need to oversize the body post holes in the bumper slightly and also dremel the edges of the bumper slightly.
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