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Old 01-12-2014, 03:54 AM   #3436
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Originally Posted by Hugh Jazz View Post
He would most likely be running a 5000 mah battery as well. He was running that at Yatabe. Said it had better side to side balance. Maybe that's why he is running the front weights.


In the picture you can see his running the LRP5700 code430206! Not sure what the weight difference to the LRP7200 is!? But he has additional center balance weight 20g I think plus 30g in the front (I don't think this is for bat compensation since its not in the right position for that).
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Old 01-12-2014, 10:08 AM   #3437
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Several times, I had the car spinning all of a sudden in a turn.
Opened the rear gear diff and found out that the shims were coning.
Anyone had the same issue?
What's the solution?

Tx in advance for your insights!
Watch how Jilles Groskamp builds his diffs
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 01-12-2014, 12:55 PM   #3438
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Hey Dan,
Are these the HPI springs you run?

http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/75175
That's them.
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Old 01-12-2014, 02:03 PM   #3439
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That's them.
Thanks Dan.

Simon
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Old 01-12-2014, 02:26 PM   #3440
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Ouch !
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YOKOMO Touring Car BD-7-rvd.jpg  
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Old 01-12-2014, 04:41 PM   #3441
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Ouch !
And the 2nd place car still couldn't cleanly make the pass.

Congrats to Volker/Unimo on the DHI Cup victory.
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Old 01-12-2014, 10:03 PM   #3442
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Well I ran the short shock set in 17.5 blinky. I think it ran pretty good. I had my fastest qualifier to date on them running my oldest set of Sorex premounts. So they definitely don't slow the car down in the stock classes. However, I made a mistake by dropping a tooth for my 3rd qualifier and main. That put me way off pace. Everyone could catch me by the end of the straight going into the sweeper. Lost a lot of time there. Handling wise, car was great. Didn't change setup at all. Just played with tire sauce and then the failed gearing. For the short shocks, I ran them with the black bladders and blue orings. I even mistakenly ran them with 100% rebound. I could feel the rebound coming out of the turns. The car would square up quickly if you weren't careful. I think running them at 25~50% would be even better on the carpet track. Overall, I'm satisfied with them so far. Now I just need to get off my butt and order the conversion kit.
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Old 01-12-2014, 11:25 PM   #3443
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Originally Posted by JimmyMac View Post
Well I ran the short shock set in 17.5 blinky. I think it ran pretty good. I had my fastest qualifier to date on them running my oldest set of Sorex premounts. So they definitely don't slow the car down in the stock classes. However, I made a mistake by dropping a tooth for my 3rd qualifier and main. That put me way off pace. Everyone could catch me by the end of the straight going into the sweeper. Lost a lot of time there. Handling wise, car was great. Didn't change setup at all. Just played with tire sauce and then the failed gearing. For the short shocks, I ran them with the black bladders and blue orings. I even mistakenly ran them with 100% rebound. I could feel the rebound coming out of the turns. The car would square up quickly if you weren't careful. I think running them at 25~50% would be even better on the carpet track. Overall, I'm satisfied with them so far. Now I just need to get off my butt and order the conversion kit.


Thanks for the info. What springs did you run with them and oil?
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Old 01-13-2014, 07:54 AM   #3444
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Default BD7 Black Edition build

I started to put this kit together last night. Ran into to a little snag, the top brace rubs the right spur gear pulley as if something is not alined. Am I doing something wrong?

Last edited by dan22; 01-13-2014 at 08:05 AM.
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Old 01-13-2014, 03:20 PM   #3445
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I started to put this kit together last night. Ran into to a little snag, the top brace rubs the right spur gear pulley as if something is not alined. Am I doing something wrong?
Are you using a panaracer spur gear? Other brand spur gears are wider (thicker) and a fix is using flat head screws.
Also make sure the pulley where the spur gear screws on is on the motor mount side.
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Old 01-13-2014, 04:38 PM   #3446
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Questions?? BD7 RS

Are there any crucial upgrades for the RS version other than sway bars, springs, diff and shock oil? My question is will the RS motor plate be enough to handle the heat? Can I upgrade to the blue aluminum motor mount or will other parts be needed to do so?
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Old 01-13-2014, 07:01 PM   #3447
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Are there any crucial upgrades for the RS version other than sway bars, springs, diff and shock oil? My question is will the RS motor plate be enough to handle the heat? Can I upgrade to the blue aluminum motor mount or will other parts be needed to do so?
http://www.teamyokomo.com/partslist/...ts_b7_rp1.html

The rear diff should be just fine, just change out the front plastic spool to a diff or to the aluminum spool. I prefer the SpecR spool because the outdrives do not have slop in them.
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Old 01-13-2014, 07:22 PM   #3448
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Are there any crucial upgrades for the RS version other than sway bars, springs, diff and shock oil? My question is will the RS motor plate be enough to handle the heat? Can I upgrade to the blue aluminum motor mount or will other parts be needed to do so?
crucial upgrades I consider:
floating servo mount, 3mm shims for camber links and etc., seals for the diff, black bladders and springs for the shocks.
Options I would do:
Sway bars, 3 degree rear toe block, graphite suspension parts, suspension shims, dcj's and graphite shock towers for finer shock adjustments.

By the time you do all that, might as well by a bd7 2014 or a used bd7.
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Old 01-13-2014, 07:39 PM   #3449
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Just seeing if there are any weak points with the RS? Worried about the composite motor mount getting warm, its all good, you can never have enough rear toe blocks, hubs, caster blocks no matter what version you got, what the hell is a floating servo mount? I got shims coming out my ears, yea JimmyMAC I'm gonna go with another diff upfront. Sorry I geuss I should have been more specific regarding crucial upgrades related to weak points of the car. Last thing I want is a bearing melting in its layshaft holder like on my MTX-3 PROSPEC. It's all good guys, trial and error will tell its tale.

Last edited by Overpowered; 01-13-2014 at 07:53 PM.
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Old 01-13-2014, 08:22 PM   #3450
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The motor plate is metal, no composite materials there. Only the layshaft holders and the front motor mount support is composite. I just built my rs and have yet to take it out for its maiden voyage in usgt.
Floating servo mount lets the chassis flex more evenly in the front:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...al-Servo-Mount

Last edited by 429racer; 01-14-2014 at 04:54 AM.
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