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Old 12-07-2013, 11:51 AM   #3196
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Never had an issue with Yokomo DCJ's
I run 13.5 blinky

Perhaps the mod guys are saying this ?
There is plenty of evidence of you look for it. You've even replied to at least one of these posts.


http://www.rctech.net/forum/11421171-post971.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/10318721-post3426.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/10233467-post3382.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/12415267-post2545.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/11838375-post1774.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/11300807-post545.html

Here's a photo from a Facebook post from a BD7 driver


Last edited by cyclonetog; 12-07-2013 at 11:56 AM. Reason: Add photo
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Old 12-07-2013, 12:04 PM   #3197
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Originally Posted by cyclonetog View Post
There is plenty of evidence of you look for it. You've even replied to at least one of these posts.
Anything can be broken
But when assembled correctly, the Yokomo parts are quite durable, as is the case with my car

Pictures of busted stuff doesn't tell much
But that one with the shrink wrap does show an assembly error imo...

The Yok DCJS may require more attention to detail then others, and perhaps that is what the fuss is all about ?

If you simply take them out of the package, and bolt them on, you will have broken bits

New parts need to be dis-assembled, cleaned, locktite on screws, and lubed BEFORE use
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Old 12-07-2013, 12:36 PM   #3198
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Of course anything can be broken, my dad earns his living breaking stuff and producing data on it.

Some things break more often than others. The evidence is that the Yok DCJ is one of those things.
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Old 12-07-2013, 12:45 PM   #3199
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Originally Posted by cyclonetog View Post
Of course anything can be broken, my dad earns his living breaking stuff and producing data on it.

Some things break more often than others. The evidence is that the Yok DCJ is one of those things.
Bet he doesn't pull data from pics on the interweb

All I can say, is in my experience, the Yokomo parts, are as good, or better than some of the other recommendations I've seen posted

I'll leave it at that

Good day sir
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Old 12-07-2013, 12:56 PM   #3200
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Bet he doesn't pull data from pics on the interweb
No he doesn't, and I don't know anybody else that has either
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Old 12-08-2013, 11:29 AM   #3201
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Been looking for a nice setup for ashpalt, heres what ive been using for my hometown tracks;

Ride height: front 5mm back 5.5mm
Droop: front 6.5 back 4.5
Toe: front toe out 1.5 deg, back toe in 3 deg.
Camber: need check again, any recommendations?

Absorber settings:

Spring: ride red (same rate as hpi silver) for back and front
Shock oil: 500wt Associated
Differential oil: 1000wt

Running 10.5T boosted
Fdr: 6.6

As for the setup above, i ran the car on our new tracks in malaysia, so the road conditions are smooth and high grip, however i find the car to have a little bit of understeer compared to my previous bd 5 wxi

Righ now my setup still uses the connecting rod between the upper deck and the steering bridge, is it better if i take out the connecting rod to promote flex?

Plus i find the ned gear diff is a bit stiffer compared to bd5 gear diff, should i reduce the oil wt to promote more steering?

One last question, my car weigh complete with electronics and bodyshell (plus center ballast weight from bd5 wxi) is around 1450gram, is this too heavy for 10.5T boosted class? Whats the ideal weight?
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Old 12-08-2013, 03:28 PM   #3202
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Setup looks pretty ball park. Definitely take out the steering bridge, hardly anybody uses it anywhere.

I wouldn't go lower on diff oil, most setups seem to be 2-3k and I've even seen 5k before.
It would be good to know cambers, usually 1.5F, 1.5 or 2.0R. If you check it and you do have more on the rear then removing a bit from the rear may help steering, or even adding more to the front.

1450g seems too heavy, weight limit in Europe is 1350g and ROAR is 1380g and the car seems to work well at that weight.

You don't mention tyres or body shell, both are very important factors.
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Old 12-08-2013, 07:18 PM   #3203
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Originally Posted by cyclonetog View Post
Setup looks pretty ball park. Definitely take out the steering bridge, hardly anybody uses it anywhere.

I wouldn't go lower on diff oil, most setups seem to be 2-3k and I've even seen 5k before.
It would be good to know cambers, usually 1.5F, 1.5 or 2.0R. If you check it and you do have more on the rear then removing a bit from the rear may help steering, or even adding more to the front.

1450g seems too heavy, weight limit in Europe is 1350g and ROAR is 1380g and the car seems to work well at that weight.

You don't mention tyres or body shell, both are very important factors.
Thanks, my camber shows -2deg front -3 deg back. Will adjust it to 1.5 front 2 at the back.

Im using RIDE wrx bodyshell and RIDE 36 tires, not sure its available overseas though, RIDE products are quite popular here.

I guess the added weight is due to my orca 7000mah 80c batt, that alone already weighs 330gram might switch to SMC battery later.
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Old 12-08-2013, 07:58 PM   #3204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noobi_Kenubi View Post
Thanks, my camber shows -2deg front -3 deg back. Will adjust it to 1.5 front 2 at the back.

Im using RIDE wrx bodyshell and RIDE 36 tires, not sure its available overseas though, RIDE products are quite popular here.

I guess the added weight is due to my orca 7000mah 80c batt, that alone already weighs 330gram might switch to SMC battery later.
I ran the IP7200 before I switched to the 6000 and it was similar to your Orca in weight and I was still under 1380g. Had to add weight to get up to minimum. This was also with standard weight body. Now I'm running lightweight body. What servo and esc are you running? Got any pics of your setup? I'm just curious where your weight is coming from. Also, take out center ballast.
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Old 12-08-2013, 09:04 PM   #3205
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I'm running Mr.Roche ECS for Yokomo now...so far its better than standard Yokomo and specr

quality is good and less slope..

pin is 1.6mm..
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Old 12-08-2013, 09:13 PM   #3206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Never had an issue with Yokomo DCJ's
I run 13.5 blinky

Perhaps the mod guys are saying this ?
Yes I didn't split it until I started running modified. I run modified on a 225 foot straight using a 4.0T with a LOT of timing and boost.
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Old 12-08-2013, 10:37 PM   #3207
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Agree with KsChu . I am now using the Mr Roche front ESC's. I picked them up on the weekend.
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Old 12-08-2013, 11:05 PM   #3208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noobi_Kenubi View Post
Thanks, my camber shows -2deg front -3 deg back. Will adjust it to 1.5 front 2 at the back.

Im using RIDE wrx bodyshell and RIDE 36 tires, not sure its available overseas though, RIDE products are quite popular here.

I guess the added weight is due to my orca 7000mah 80c batt, that alone already weighs 330gram might switch to SMC battery later.
Ride wrx body made the car understeer change it to ltc-r and u will get some steering back
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Old 12-09-2013, 02:00 AM   #3209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kschu View Post
I'm running Mr.Roche ECS for Yokomo now...so far its better than standard Yokomo and specr

quality is good and less slope..

pin is 1.6mm..
kschu can you tell me the measurement of the main drive pin?

The kit UJ has a 2.1mm pin and the Spec-R dcj has a 2.0mm one, which creates a bit of slop in the outdrive.
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Old 12-09-2013, 04:47 AM   #3210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Anything can be broken
But when assembled correctly, the Yokomo parts are quite durable, as is the case with my car

Pictures of busted stuff doesn't tell much
But that one with the shrink wrap does show an assembly error imo...

The Yok DCJS may require more attention to detail then others, and perhaps that is what the fuss is all about ?

If you simply take them out of the package, and bolt them on, you will have broken bits

New parts need to be dis-assembled, cleaned, locktite on screws, and lubed BEFORE use
Do you heat shrink yours? Any pics?
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