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Old 11-08-2013, 12:00 PM   #3001
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Sorry, 3 hole pistons.

I will get that revised.

I was trying to compress the pdf to attach it, I will turn up the resolution and decrease the file size
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Old 11-09-2013, 05:21 AM   #3002
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Default Bell Crank

Is anyone running the Bell Crank in their car?
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Old 11-09-2013, 12:41 PM   #3003
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Is anyone getting leaky shocks? Mine seem to be seeping a bit from the top cap.
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Old 11-09-2013, 01:34 PM   #3004
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Quote:
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Is anyone getting leaky shocks? Mine seem to be seeping a bit from the top cap.
No, but which bladders are you using? The kit ones are quite well known for expanding after a short period of time. The black ones last forever, well, almost.
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Old 11-09-2013, 03:40 PM   #3005
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Is anyone getting leaky shocks? Mine seem to be seeping a bit from the top cap.
yeah black bladders for the win, the other thing to make sure is that when you tighten down the cap retainer you are not turning the shock cap as well,


Speaking of issues i installed Tamiya front ecs drive shafts, as i prefer the clip type to hold the pin in, and they were a pain to get right without the hex clamp binding down on the bearing when you tighten up the wheel nut. I had to modify slightly a set of 3racing clamps to get them to sit at the right spacing so they sit on the pin and not the bearing. A pain but worthwhile.

Beth.
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Old 11-09-2013, 04:03 PM   #3006
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yeah black bladders for the win, the other thing to make sure is that when you tighten down the cap retainer you are not turning the shock cap as well,


Speaking of issues i installed Tamiya front ecs drive shafts, as i prefer the clip type to hold the pin in, and they were a pain to get right without the hex clamp binding down on the bearing when you tighten up the wheel nut. I had to modify slightly a set of 3racing clamps to get them to sit at the right spacing so they sit on the pin and not the bearing. A pain but worthwhile.

Beth.
Cheers I'll try the black ones!
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Old 11-10-2013, 12:10 PM   #3007
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Hi people, did you test the short shock towers of roche rc with the news short shocks of the same Brand?
I want to try it, but I don't know what to do.
P.d: I run in pro stock class (same as ets
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Old 11-10-2013, 12:34 PM   #3008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evochick View Post
yeah black bladders for the win, the other thing to make sure is that when you tighten down the cap retainer you are not turning the shock cap as well,


Speaking of issues i installed Tamiya front ecs drive shafts, as i prefer the clip type to hold the pin in, and they were a pain to get right without the hex clamp binding down on the bearing when you tighten up the wheel nut. I had to modify slightly a set of 3racing clamps to get them to sit at the right spacing so they sit on the pin and not the bearing. A pain but worthwhile.

Beth.
Its best to just convert the hexs to Tamiya. Their hex design is a lot better.
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Old 11-10-2013, 01:21 PM   #3009
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Arn0 at PetitRC was kind enough to host a set up sheet for us:



I received a question about the outside front camber link. I did not run any shims underneath the ball, but I failed to mention that I switched the ball to an Associated silver ball with 10mm thread. This ball is essentially 1mm higher than the yokomo ball, so it is roughly equivalent to the Yoke +1. The big advantage is in the longer threads, they go deeper inside the steering block and will not strip as easier. The ball ends really increase the durability of your steering blocks.
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Old 11-10-2013, 01:46 PM   #3010
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I received a question about the outside front camber link. I did not run any shims underneath the ball, but I failed to mention that I switched the ball to an Associated silver ball with 10mm thread. This ball is essentially 1mm higher than the yokomo ball, so it is roughly equivalent to the Yoke +1. The big advantage is in the longer threads, they go deeper inside the steering block and will not strip as easier. The ball ends really increase the durability of your steering blocks.[/QUOTE]

Just wondering, the ball on the bulkhead... is that the standard silver Yokomo or a shorter neck?
There is a fair amount of shimming on the bulkhead for the standard silver Yokomo?
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Old 11-10-2013, 03:56 PM   #3011
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TDX Rear Suspension Mount 2.25 & 2.75 Deg
Attached Thumbnails
YOKOMO Touring Car BD-7-tdx-tc16015-c.jpg  
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Old 11-10-2013, 04:58 PM   #3012
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I received a question about the outside front camber link. I did not run any shims underneath the ball, but I failed to mention that I switched the ball to an Associated silver ball with 10mm thread. This ball is essentially 1mm higher than the yokomo ball, so it is roughly equivalent to the Yoke +1. The big advantage is in the longer threads, they go deeper inside the steering block and will not strip as easier. The ball ends really increase the durability of your steering blocks.
Just wondering, the ball on the bulkhead... is that the standard silver Yokomo or a shorter neck?
There is a fair amount of shimming on the bulkhead for the standard silver Yokomo?[/QUOTE]

Standard silver ball end. It allows the car to roll more at the front making it softer. It makes the car easier to drive.
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Old 11-10-2013, 09:48 PM   #3013
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TDX Rear Suspension Mount 2.25 & 2.75 Deg
www.chubbiescarshack.co.uk has them coming in stock as well plus the rear belt as well
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Old 11-12-2013, 09:14 AM   #3014
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Hey guys,
i have a bit blasphemous question for you. Does anybody know if some other cars spool fit BD7? I would like to race next weekend and yokomo europe is out of stock.
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Old 11-12-2013, 02:00 PM   #3015
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An associated Tc6 spool will fit. But you will have to put the white blades on the end of the drive shaft
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