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Old 10-18-2013, 06:26 AM   #2851
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Brilliant, will try this weekend at uk's biggest carpet championship. Still, do you connect bridge to topdeck or leave top screw out???? And how would you word how the longer links fr and r make the car feel. Either long fr or long r or both long.
Cheers

Yes, the screw is in.

Long front link: less initial turn-in, more steering middle off.

Note: Car will feel smoother and will be less likely to traction roll. Good for tracks with long sweeping corners. Not good for tracks with quick transitions(i.e chicanes) or tight corners. *Generally speaking*

Short front link: more initial turn-in, less steering middle off.

Note: Car will feel more sensitive and steer aggressively into the corner but will be more likely to traction roll. Good for tracks with quick transitions(i.e chicanes) or tight corners. Not good for tracks with long sweeping corners. *Generally speaking*

The rear is basically the same.

Long rear link: less initial turn-in, more steering middle off, and easier to drive.

Note: Car will feel smoother. Good for tracks with long sweeping corners. Not good for tracks with quick transitions(i.e chicanes) or tight corners. *Generally speaking*

Short rear link: more initial turn-in, less steering middle off. Makes the car very stable on power , especially on low grip tracks.

Note: Car will feel more sensitive and steer aggressively into the corner. Good for tracks with quick transitions(i.e chicanes) or tight corners. Not good for tracks with long sweeping corners. *Generally speaking*
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Old 10-18-2013, 07:31 AM   #2852
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Yes, the screw is in.

Long front link: less initial turn-in, more steering middle off.

Note: Car will feel smoother and will be less likely to traction roll. Good for tracks with long sweeping corners. Not good for tracks with quick transitions(i.e chicanes) or tight corners. *Generally speaking*

Short front link: more initial turn-in, less steering middle off.

Note: Car will feel more sensitive and steer aggressively into the corner but will be more likely to traction roll. Good for tracks with quick transitions(i.e chicanes) or tight corners. Not good for tracks with long sweeping corners. *Generally speaking*

The rear is basically the same.

Long rear link: less initial turn-in, more steering middle off, and easier to drive.

Note: Car will feel smoother. Good for tracks with long sweeping corners. Not good for tracks with quick transitions(i.e chicanes) or tight corners. *Generally speaking*

Short rear link: more initial turn-in, less steering middle off. Makes the car very stable on power , especially on low grip tracks.

Note: Car will feel more sensitive and steer aggressively into the corner. Good for tracks with quick transitions(i.e chicanes) or tight corners. Not good for tracks with long sweeping corners. *Generally speaking*

This is awesome, thank you. Something tells me other people will greatly appreciate this super info too
Thanks again
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Old 10-18-2013, 08:17 AM   #2853
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kosmic View Post
Brilliant, will try this weekend at uk's biggest carpet championship. Still, do you connect bridge to topdeck or leave top screw out???? And how would you word how the longer links fr and r make the car feel. Either long fr or long r or both long.
Cheers
hi Simon

I would try Andrew setup with short link at ews if I was racing will find setup we had on car for brca indoor later
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Old 10-18-2013, 09:15 AM   #2854
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Cool
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Old 10-18-2013, 09:22 AM   #2855
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Make sure to try pink vs. blue springs.
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Old 10-18-2013, 02:15 PM   #2856
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Make sure to try pink vs. blue springs.


Lastly, do you ever drill 1mm hole in shock cap on carpet??
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Old 10-18-2013, 07:25 PM   #2857
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Originally Posted by beamcat View Post
MR..ROCHE DIAGON VOLUME SHOCK (DVS) TOURING SHOCKS SET FOR YOKOMO BD7- ROC-BD7-07

All-newly designed “Diagon Volume Shock (DVS)” for touring car. Shorter shock shafts, bigger shock body diamenter keeping the volume the same as original shocks. Shock top cap, shock body, shock bottom cap and height adjuster are made from aircraft grade aluminum with bling machine cutting. All new piston design groove to improve the linearity of oil flow. 4 different springs rate suitable for different track conditions.

Kit are included :
1) Full Set of MR..ROCHE DVS Shock Springs
2) 3 Holes and 4 Holes DVS Shock Pistons
3) Titanium Coated Shock Shafts
4) 4 Hardness DVS Oil Sealer Caps Set
5) Hard Coated Aluminum Shock Bodies
6) Front & Rear Shock Tower for BD7 (-2mm)
Please let me know if anyone has/will be trying this new option part in conjunction with their existing setup. I would like to know how they compare to the current Yokomo shock absorbers/front and rear shock towers, and exactly what performance increase/decrease they will provide. Asphalt would be preferred.

Cheers.
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Old 10-18-2013, 08:47 PM   #2858
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Originally Posted by kosmic View Post
Lastly, do you ever drill 1mm hole in shock cap on carpet??
car work lot better with some rebound so no need for 1mm hole
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Old 10-19-2013, 01:10 AM   #2859
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For EWS I'd really recommend staying with the short links at the bulkhead. Actually trying to run long there is a right pain because the thread on the ball stud hits the tensioner cams so you either have to dremmel some thread off or run too many spacers. I have some spare studs cut down for making the change but always end up back on short anyway.
At the winter national I ran long rear at the hub but went back to kit towards the end of the weekend and del it was better with the grip higher so I'd be tempted to just leave it there.

For me, on the EWS track, I found the biggest 2 things to help were running 0.5mm more under the front ball stud than the rear and 1.5d fr camber and 1.8d rr camber, 5.0mm fr ride height 5.25 rr ride height. Rest of it was basically Identical to that hardman setup.

I totally agree that measuring droop over ride height is an easy way to do it, but if you are more comfortable using a gauge then 6fr 4.5rr measured on the wishbone directly under the outer pin should be a good starting point for Sorex tyres at EWS.
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Old 10-19-2013, 07:10 AM   #2860
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Where can I find the Japan Nats Pack?
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Old 10-19-2013, 12:47 PM   #2861
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Does anyone find their rear diff leaking a lot?

got a BD7 RS and i can build a diff fine, but this rear one keeps seemingly leaking :|
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Old 10-20-2013, 12:13 AM   #2862
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Does anyone find their rear diff leaking a lot?

got a BD7 RS and i can build a diff fine, but this rear one keeps seemingly leaking :|
kyosho P5 orings fix that.
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Old 10-20-2013, 02:41 AM   #2863
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anyone with good pinion/spur setup for a reedy 21.5 motor
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Old 10-20-2013, 08:18 AM   #2864
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill K View Post
Please let me know if anyone has/will be trying this new option part in conjunction with their existing setup. I would like to know how they compare to the current Yokomo shock absorbers/front and rear shock towers, and exactly what performance increase/decrease they will provide. Asphalt would be preferred.

Cheers.

I picked up this kit, next sunday I try on my BD7
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Old 10-20-2013, 10:29 AM   #2865
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Originally Posted by Luppi Stefano View Post
I picked up this kit, next sunday I try on my BD7


Stefano, what happened to the STX ?
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