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Old 10-01-2013, 08:42 PM   #2791
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Congratulations to Corey (Team Yokomo wrench for Team Yokomo Driver Andrew Hardman) for winning the 2013 Ontario Time Attack Shootout with his GT2 BMW last weekend at Mosport now Canadian Tire Motorsports. He knows how to setup and drive RC Cars and Real Cars.

Corey - I now have Yokomo BD7s, sold the other cars. The Cayman R goes into Pfaff next week for a roll bar. I will need help and advice on the Yokomo and Cayman.

Have a great time in Vegas.
I didn't expect to see that pop up here, Thanks! Steve and I both look forward to seeing you out there next year, so please don't hesitate to contact me about either car!

For those who have no idea what we are talking about, feel free to check out my Youtube channel.

https://www.youtube.com/user/TRFWhitey

See some of you at IIC!
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Old 10-02-2013, 05:44 AM   #2792
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You guys think its a good idea to buy RS model to use as spare parts for my BD7? Just the small plastic parts, bearings, rear diff, carbon chassis and upper deck alone is worth over $200?
Exactly what i have done

Replaced chassis plate, rear diff, ball cups, full set of driveshafts, bearings...
Refreshed the car for much cheaper than what it would have cost to buy replacement spares. Building the RS on my old chassis plate to use as spare or wet car next year
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Old 10-02-2013, 07:14 PM   #2793
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Throwing around the idea of refreshing one of my cars in full or selling it for a cheap price....
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Old 10-03-2013, 03:03 AM   #2794
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Originally Posted by Aaron_M View Post
Exactly what i have done

Replaced chassis plate, rear diff, ball cups, full set of driveshafts, bearings...
Refreshed the car for much cheaper than what it would have cost to buy replacement spares. Building the RS on my old chassis plate to use as spare or wet car next year
Good idea
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Old 10-03-2013, 07:30 AM   #2795
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Originally Posted by cyba888 View Post
Good idea
I'm actually tossing around the idea of getting the Japan Champ pack, the high traction top deck, and chassis. Then stripping down the car and if any aluminum is bad replacing it. Thats still alot cheaper than buying a new TC.
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Old 10-03-2013, 12:49 PM   #2796
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Hey
I drive my BD7 now for some Practice Days. At the moment theres nothing broken. But what spares should I buy? What are the most broken things on this Car? And what Tuning Options are recommended?
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Old 10-07-2013, 11:23 AM   #2797
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Hey
I drive my BD7 now for some Practice Days. At the moment theres nothing broken. But what spares should I buy? What are the most broken things on this Car? And what Tuning Options are recommended?
Are you running mod or 17.5? I've been running asphalt mod without damage. I put Spec-Rv2 drive shafts up front. I would get the usual spares like hubs, knuckles, etc
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Old 10-07-2013, 01:38 PM   #2798
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Hey, sorry I ran 13.5t.
The Spec-R V2 Shafts im Driving theyre in.
Sorry, I mean what are the standart Spares, its my first Touring Car after some years Offroad racing.
Also another Question, how big is the difference between the Graphite and the Standart parts?

Last edited by Magrad; 10-07-2013 at 01:48 PM.
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Old 10-07-2013, 09:43 PM   #2799
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I would use the graphite parts on high traction tracks. If the traction is low, stick with the kit arms. I'm trying to limit my spares. I have:

Steering Hub Carrier (3 sets)
Rear Hubs (1 pair)
Steering Blocks (2 pairs or more)
King Pins (1 pair)
Front Arms (2 pairs)
Rear Arms (1 pair)
Inner Suspension Arm Pin Front (1 pair)
Inner Suspension Arm Pin Rear (1 pair)
Outer Suspension Arm Pin (1 set)
Front Bumper and Body Posts (1 set)

I think that's it's for my "spares".
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Old 10-09-2013, 07:56 AM   #2800
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Originally Posted by JimmyMac View Post
I would use the graphite parts on high traction tracks. If the traction is low, stick with the kit arms. I'm trying to limit my spares. I have:

Steering Hub Carrier (3 sets)
Rear Hubs (1 pair)
Steering Blocks (2 pairs or more)
King Pins (1 pair)
Front Arms (2 pairs)
Rear Arms (1 pair)
Inner Suspension Arm Pin Front (1 pair)
Inner Suspension Arm Pin Rear (1 pair)
Outer Suspension Arm Pin (1 set)
Front Bumper and Body Posts (1 set)

I think that's it's for my "spares".
perfect description.

I've found that the long arms up front and the short arms in the rear.
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Old 10-09-2013, 09:12 AM   #2801
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Originally Posted by NolanP View Post
perfect description.

I've found that the long arms up front and the short arms in the rear.
My understanding there isnt long or short arms, the shock mounting holes are in the different location..
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Old 10-09-2013, 07:12 PM   #2802
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BD7 rear plastic kit arms are 39.5mm shock mounting hole. So I bought the 39.5mm rear graphite arms. This shock mounting position seems to be the dominate one for most setups. The others are 40.5mm and 41.5mm. Each size up moves the lower shock mount out towards the wheels. All arms are the same length. Just different shock pivot points as OVA stated. Been like this since the BD5 days. The front arms only have one shock mounting hole, so you either have a plastic arm or a graphite arm up front. No size difference for BD7.
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Last edited by JimmyMac; 10-09-2013 at 09:35 PM. Reason: spelling error, hehe
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Old 10-12-2013, 10:51 AM   #2803
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Do you guys run the foam that goes on top of the shock bladder? This is for carpet. For the setup sheets, where is droop measured from? Under the arm or at the pin?
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Old 10-12-2013, 03:35 PM   #2804
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I'm thinking about buying the BD7 RS to give touring cars a go. After doing a bit of research it looks like the servo is fixed to the car with 1 screw and some servo tape? Is this correct, will this be strong enough? Has anyone got any pictures and feedback regarding this mounting method.
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Old 10-12-2013, 04:44 PM   #2805
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Originally Posted by f888fhw View Post
I'm thinking about buying the BD7 RS to give touring cars a go. After doing a bit of research it looks like the servo is fixed to the car with 1 screw and some servo tape? Is this correct, will this be strong enough? Has anyone got any pictures and feedback regarding this mounting method.
Bd7 is same currently run mod no problems....I did order the floating servo piece just waiting for it to arrive
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