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Old 07-26-2013, 10:38 PM   #2521
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Has anyones tried or happy with the yokomo hard plastic shock cup with the bleeder hole...
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Old 07-27-2013, 08:29 AM   #2522
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Originally Posted by OVA View Post
Has anyones tried or happy with the yokomo hard plastic shock cup with the bleeder hole...
Are you referring to the drilled kit caps, or the new Aeration cap ?

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Old 07-27-2013, 09:02 AM   #2523
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Are you referring to the drilled kit caps, or the new Aeration cap ?

sorry, I was referring the new Areation cap..
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Old 07-27-2013, 09:11 PM   #2524
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sorry, I was referring the new Areation cap..
Have a set I've run a few times on asphalt
Very high quality bits, fit and feel is perfect

Car was very direct, and locked in, even more so than with kit caps
Downside, to get that feel, shock maintenance is high, rebuilds every run are necessary to maintain that level of performance

If you have the time between rounds, it could be worthwile
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:16 PM   #2525
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I'm glad you mention about maintain is high..now I know. Time t o rebuilt the shock again Thanks Dave
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Old 07-28-2013, 03:18 PM   #2526
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Don't all cars take some figuring out to find the correct setup that works for the driver? lol
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Old 07-28-2013, 03:19 PM   #2527
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Originally Posted by Bill K View Post
I have never had my BD-7 running so good on an asphalt surface apart from now. This car is just beautiful to drive, and I'm able to hit every apex, and rotate the car fast enough to make those tricky corners.

I have myself an order coming in from overseas with DCJ's, springs, sway bars, shock oils/bladders and other hop-up options for this car, but I really don't want to altar the setup and ruin it's performance.

This car is the best decision I've ever made, and all I can really do is recommend this car. With the right setup, this car is driving on rails, and although it may take some figuring out to find it, it's worth it in the end!
I was refering to this post...
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Old 07-28-2013, 07:22 PM   #2528
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Do you find the Yokomo DCJ's have a lot of backlash slop. I can rotate the wheels slightly before the drive axle makes contact with the spool drive cup. Is this normal? I've only taken it out for a 2 min spin, that's all. Strange to see so much slop in newly installed drive shafts. I guess having all those pivot points in DCJ's compared to the standard axles, it would generate some slop.

Last edited by EDWARD2003; 07-28-2013 at 09:04 PM.
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Old 07-28-2013, 08:09 PM   #2529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bukil View Post
I loose a little of front bite and made the car push a little. I use it more of weight transfer thing than wheelbase. But thats just me.
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Do you find the Yokomo DCJ's have a lot of backlash slop. I can rotate the wheels slightly before the drive axle makes contact with the spool drive cup. Is this normal? I've only taken it out for a 2 min spin, that's all. Strange to see so much slop in newly installed drive shafts. Maybe this is a normal, considering all axle joints compared to the standard axles.
Yes that is normal for yokomo. Not the best metal but I haven't found it makes a difference on the track since the axle is under constant load.
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Old 07-28-2013, 09:35 PM   #2530
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Originally Posted by Team Speedy View Post



I have the following in my pit box:

  • 43.5 split (std) Front
  • 41.3 split (optional) Rear
  • 42.0 split (std) Rear
For the optional parts I purchased, amongst other things:

  • YOKYS-8HD - Black Bladders
  • YOKYS-7HG - Double O-ring setup
  • YOKBD-S2W - Thin P3 O-ring for double o-ring setup
  • 6542 - HPI Blue Spring
  • 6543 - HPI Silver Springs
  • ORG05 - Kyosho O-rings for the gear diff.
  • YOKB7-203 - Floating Servo Mount
  • YOKBD-010FW - Double Cardon Joints
  • Full line of graphite suspension parts, except c-hubs.
I also have titanium turnbuckles and a few odds and ends that are nothing more then eye caddy added. However, the above is what I'd start with again if I had to repurchase this kit at a later time.


Can you elaborate on the YOKBD-S2W - Thin P3 O-ring for double o-ring setup? Is this for the shocks?

Thx.
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Old 07-28-2013, 11:22 PM   #2531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJGonzo69 View Post
Can you elaborate on the YOKBD-S2W - Thin P3 O-ring for double o-ring setup? Is this for the shocks?

Thx.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-White-4-Thin



spacer is thinner to accommodate the extra o ring.
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Old 07-29-2013, 11:42 AM   #2532
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Has anyone tried longer top links on their cars, front and rear? How does this affect the handling? I know it moves the roll center, but what else does it do?

I also noticed the ball stud would drive into the diff bearing retainer, so washers would be needed...

I'm looking to balance my car better, i always seem to lack rear traction on asphalt, so i'm looking for some setup ideas.
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Old 07-29-2013, 12:39 PM   #2533
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Yeah I've tried it.
Like you say the ball studs don't really fit, it's a lot of messing about to make something work and my findings are that it's really not worth the effort.
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Old 07-29-2013, 12:45 PM   #2534
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Kit build +
Gear Diff front 2.5m
1k rear diff
Rest kit setup, no shims on upper links
Should understeer with proper tires

edit:
And Hpi Silver springs
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Last edited by RedBullFiXX; 07-29-2013 at 04:33 PM.
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Old 07-29-2013, 03:31 PM   #2535
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Does anyone have spare parts they can sell me? I was going to get the BD7 on Wed, but Amain is back ordered on the parts I was looking for.

Yokomo Aluminum Rear-Rear Suspension Mount (Blue) (45.7mm)
Yokomo P3 O-Ring Collar (White) (4) (Thin) [YOKBD-S2W]
Kyosho Silicone O-Ring Set (P5/Orange) (10) [KYOORG05]
Yokomo Lightweight Graphite Rear Suspension Arm (39.5mm)


Thx-John
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