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Old 07-13-2013, 11:24 PM   #2446
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know someone diameter of 96T 48dp spurgear
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Old 07-14-2013, 03:15 AM   #2447
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know someone diameter of 96T 48dp spurgear
That would be (Nteeth+2)/DP=OD[inch]
So roughly 51.86mm
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Old 07-14-2013, 09:43 AM   #2448
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fit xray offset spur gear's on the BD7
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Old 07-15-2013, 01:41 AM   #2449
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Hi guys,

I've been running the BD7 for a couple of meetings now (having come from a TC6.1 notice a fair difference!).

Upto now I've been running with the kit setup as built with HPI silver springs all around. Over the weekend I ended up going to 2000wt AE diff oil to try and calm down the rear end abit into and through corners.

I notice the base asphalt settings are abit different in terms of shimming etc, I can match it with the exception of the rear blocks (only currently have kit ones) and wondering if its worth giving it a go (I noticed a few people have been saying kit settings with HPI silvers which think is what I'm on?).

Also can anyone give me an idea of what the general tuning parameters people have been using on the car? Easy to get lost so just want some rough guidelines to run to!

Thanks for the help

Dan
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Old 07-15-2013, 05:42 AM   #2450
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashmaster View Post
Hi guys,

I've been running the BD7 for a couple of meetings now (having come from a TC6.1 notice a fair difference!).

Upto now I've been running with the kit setup as built with HPI silver springs all around. Over the weekend I ended up going to 2000wt AE diff oil to try and calm down the rear end abit into and through corners.

I notice the base asphalt settings are abit different in terms of shimming etc, I can match it with the exception of the rear blocks (only currently have kit ones) and wondering if its worth giving it a go (I noticed a few people have been saying kit settings with HPI silvers which think is what I'm on?).

Also can anyone give me an idea of what the general tuning parameters people have been using on the car? Easy to get lost so just want some rough guidelines to run to!

Thanks for the help

Dan
Dan,

In the rear you can get away with the RF split 41.3mm to give 3.5 rear toe if things are loose. Also don't be afraid to increase the camber to 2* in the rear and removing the shims at the camber links to further calm the back down. Silly question but I assume you are running same tires in similar condition as others who are "hooked" up at the track?

Jim
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Old 07-15-2013, 06:09 AM   #2451
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Originally Posted by swimbikerun View Post
Dan,

In the rear you can get away with the RF split 41.3mm to give 3.5 rear toe if things are loose. Also don't be afraid to increase the camber to 2* in the rear and removing the shims at the camber links to further calm the back down. Silly question but I assume you are running same tires in similar condition as others who are "hooked" up at the track?

Jim
Hi Jim,

Thanks for the responce!

Yeah we run sorex 32 as a control tyre so everyone on the same rubber. I'm currently not running any shim under the camber links - Would adding shims on the hub help the rear by increasing camber gain (trying to get my head around these things!)

Dan
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Old 07-15-2013, 07:59 AM   #2452
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashmaster View Post
Hi guys,

I've been running the BD7 for a couple of meetings now (having come from a TC6.1 notice a fair difference!).

Upto now I've been running with the kit setup as built with HPI silver springs all around. Over the weekend I ended up going to 2000wt AE diff oil to try and calm down the rear end abit into and through corners.

I notice the base asphalt settings are abit different in terms of shimming etc, I can match it with the exception of the rear blocks (only currently have kit ones) and wondering if its worth giving it a go (I noticed a few people have been saying kit settings with HPI silvers which think is what I'm on?).

Also can anyone give me an idea of what the general tuning parameters people have been using on the car? Easy to get lost so just want some rough guidelines to run to!

Thanks for the help

Dan
imo
Start with kit setup first, and work from there
By kit, I mean as per build instructions, not Yokomo base settings for indoor, or asphalt, factory driver this, that etc...

The car should be very easy to drive with mild understeer in this configuration

Essentially my BD7 is set up similar for every track and condition, with a few minor tweaks
1K rear diff
2.5m front diff
HPI Silvers
rear toe blocks for 2.5 toe are useful as well
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Old 07-15-2013, 08:38 AM   #2453
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
imo
Start with kit setup first, and work from there
By kit, I mean as per build instructions, not Yokomo base settings for indoor, or asphalt, factory driver this, that etc...

The car should be very easy to drive with mild understeer in this configuration

Essentially my BD7 is set up similar for every track and condition, with a few minor tweaks
1K rear diff
2.5m front diff
HPI Silvers
rear toe blocks for 2.5 toe are useful as well
Hey thanks for the reply! with the exception of the front diff (just have spool atm) thats waht I was running until I went up on the rear diff oil (though later I realised I was running abit more drag brake then i though, turning this down I think would have solved the over rotation into corners without going so thick on the diff oil!)

Would you recommend getting a diff for the front? Guessing it gives abit more off throttle turn in at the expense of power on steering?

Out of wonder what would your next step be to add more front end if track conditions alowed it?

Sorry for all the questions trying to learn as much as possible so have some things to try if required!!

Thanks
Dan
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Old 07-15-2013, 01:41 PM   #2454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashmaster View Post
Hey thanks for the reply! with the exception of the front diff (just have spool atm) thats waht I was running until I went up on the rear diff oil (though later I realised I was running abit more drag brake then i though, turning this down I think would have solved the over rotation into corners without going so thick on the diff oil!)

Would you recommend getting a diff for the front? Guessing it gives abit more off throttle turn in at the expense of power on steering?
True, I don't know if there is a real benefit, but it does drive more like a pan car, which is what I'm used to
Out of wonder what would your next step be to add more front end if track conditions alowed it?
More camber gain up front, and try different springs, Yokomo springs are always more aggressive than Hpi, good to have options
Sorry for all the questions trying to learn as much as possible so have some things to try if required!!

Thanks
Dan
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It's nice to have a quick, easy to drive car out of the box, though it seems like most of the modern TC's are in this category now days

btw in 13.5 Expert, Yokomo went 1,2,3 at TQRC this weekend for our Series race

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Old 07-15-2013, 04:13 PM   #2455
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Crashmaster below are my setting from the recent WLRC GP (on Sorex 32s) which i came 8th in, car was very nice to drive

Rear

HPI Silvers
400 oil 3 hole piston (1.1mm - 2 oring shocks)
Shock Position 3
42.0rf block - 46.4rr block
kit roll bar
2k gear diff oil
1mm outer camber link shim
0mm inner camber link shim
4mm downstop
6.5mm ride height
2mmrr and 2.3mm rf wheelbase shims

front

HPI Silvers
400 oil 3 hole piston (1.1mm - 2 oring shocks)
Shock Position 3
43.5ff block - 43.5fr block
kit roll bar
spool
1mm outer camber link shim
0mm inner camber link shim
5mm downstop
6mm ride height
0.5mm ff and 0.5mm fr wheelbase shims
0.5mm ackerman
0mm bump steer
1deg toe out

Rear should be planted like that if you require a little more steering then try increasing settings to

1mm Ackerman
0.5mm bump steer (mid corner)
44.2 ff block (corner entry)

Also key with sorex tires (any tire to be fair) is additive technique, as a starting point for any outdoor track;

Clean with brake cleaner (spray on tissue then wipe tire)
MR33 additive 10 minutes no warmers then tissue paper and warmers for 20 mins @ 60deg



Thanks

Mark
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:11 PM   #2456
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Has anyone had luck using a gear diff up front in mod?
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Old 07-16-2013, 12:38 AM   #2457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3CSLDreamin View Post
Has anyone had luck using a gear diff up front in mod?
I run gear diff in front with racers edge putty...
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Old 07-16-2013, 03:09 AM   #2458
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Thanks for that Mark thats amazing information! I will give it a go hopefully this weekend!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bony85 View Post
Crashmaster below are my setting from the recent WLRC GP (on Sorex 32s) which i came 8th in, car was very nice to drive

Rear

HPI Silvers
400 oil 3 hole piston (1.1mm - 2 oring shocks)
Shock Position 3
42.0rf block - 46.4rr block
kit roll bar
2k gear diff oil
1mm outer camber link shim
0mm inner camber link shim
4mm downstop
6.5mm ride height
2mmrr and 2.3mm rf wheelbase shims

front

HPI Silvers
400 oil 3 hole piston (1.1mm - 2 oring shocks)
Shock Position 3
43.5ff block - 43.5fr block
kit roll bar
spool
1mm outer camber link shim
0mm inner camber link shim
5mm downstop
6mm ride height
0.5mm ff and 0.5mm fr wheelbase shims
0.5mm ackerman
0mm bump steer
1deg toe out

Rear should be planted like that if you require a little more steering then try increasing settings to

1mm Ackerman
0.5mm bump steer (mid corner)
44.2 ff block (corner entry)

Also key with sorex tires (any tire to be fair) is additive technique, as a starting point for any outdoor track;

Clean with brake cleaner (spray on tissue then wipe tire)
MR33 additive 10 minutes no warmers then tissue paper and warmers for 20 mins @ 60deg



Thanks

Mark
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:35 PM   #2459
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How does the thick oil in the diff affect the car? Thicker is better for grippy tracks?

in Winter i run on carpet, in the summer we're on ashpalt.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bony85 View Post
Crashmaster below are my setting from the recent WLRC GP (on Sorex 32s) which i came 8th in, car was very nice to drive

Rear

HPI Silvers
400 oil 3 hole piston (1.1mm - 2 oring shocks)
Shock Position 3
42.0rf block - 46.4rr block
kit roll bar
2k gear diff oil
1mm outer camber link shim
0mm inner camber link shim
4mm downstop
6.5mm ride height
2mmrr and 2.3mm rf wheelbase shims

front

HPI Silvers
400 oil 3 hole piston (1.1mm - 2 oring shocks)
Shock Position 3
43.5ff block - 43.5fr block
kit roll bar
spool
1mm outer camber link shim
0mm inner camber link shim
5mm downstop
6mm ride height
0.5mm ff and 0.5mm fr wheelbase shims
0.5mm ackerman
0mm bump steer
1deg toe out

Rear should be planted like that if you require a little more steering then try increasing settings to

1mm Ackerman
0.5mm bump steer (mid corner)
44.2 ff block (corner entry)

Also key with sorex tires (any tire to be fair) is additive technique, as a starting point for any outdoor track;

Clean with brake cleaner (spray on tissue then wipe tire)
MR33 additive 10 minutes no warmers then tissue paper and warmers for 20 mins @ 60deg



Thanks

Mark
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:54 PM   #2460
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Got some great tips from RedbullFixx over the weekend, particularly how to lube the DCJs.
His DCJs do look brand new. Did some research turns out heli guys use this stuff too. It sprays on liquid and sets as a thin oily film that stays on unlike grease. Kinda like triflow on steroids! Thanks Dave for the pro tip!
This is the stuff:

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