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Old 05-22-2013, 08:39 PM   #2191
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Yes I am running stock pistons. I have a second set to drill out to 1.3mm but I never have.

I typically run 500 cst black bladder and blue o-ring.
With Sorex tires I typically run Green rear springs and Black/Blue fronts (carpet mainly but I'm trying it on asphalt this weekend) I have found this makes the car stand up really well with my carpet setup to stand the car up and go straight when you mash the throttle in mod. I am hoping to achieve the same setup on asphalt. For my driving it was the only way to get match the big boys. Will update more on Sunday.
let us know thanks
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:12 PM   #2192
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The car is good on asphalt. No need to try crazy sh!t. At the last asphalt race, fastest two cars in the A main were BD7's. I think the competition around here is pretty high or high enough to weed out bad cars. The two other BD7's at the race didn't make the A due to bad luck but those cars were the fastest in their respective mains as well.
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:16 PM   #2193
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The car is good on asphalt. No need to try crazy sh!t. At the last asphalt race, fastest two cars in the A main were BD7's. I think the competition around here is pretty high or high enough to weed out bad cars. The two other BD7's at the race didn't make the A due to bad luck but those cars were the fastest in their respective mains as well.
What's set up that they were using ?
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:12 PM   #2194
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What's set up that they were using ?
Used this, If car is understeering revert to normal front wheelbase. If oversteering revert to stock rear toe block. The car is so easy to drive. I will work on it some more next time we are out there and for sure it will be A LOT faster.
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Old 05-23-2013, 06:27 PM   #2195
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The car is good on asphalt. No need to try crazy sh!t. At the last asphalt race, fastest two cars in the A main were BD7's. I think the competition around here is pretty high or high enough to weed out bad cars. The two other BD7's at the race didn't make the A due to bad luck but those cars were the fastest in their respective mains as well.
It's not crazy if it works. I've run Black fronts with Green rears on carpet with 600/500 one of the fastest cars on the track. A lot of this you have to take as a starting point for some people. Remember I might like my car to handle a certain way. As well as not saying that there is anything wrong running anything less than modified but 13.5 doesn't put the same amount of stress on the suspension as modified. So one might need a different setup.
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Old 05-24-2013, 01:08 AM   #2196
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Yes, that's right. It's all a starting point. I never said your setup was crazy. I think what I posted will work well anywhere with any motor.

Mod is a totally different animal which I don't really race, sorry. If you think you're a better driver than me, that's cool, you might be right. But the setup i posted as well as Meen V.'s is a great starting point for any driver, novice or expert.
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Old 05-24-2013, 05:49 AM   #2197
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I just got the new shock caps to test on our outdoor tracks, just a quick question for
Anyone that may have some experience with this sort of thing.
it looks like you don't run bladders with them would that be right?
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Old 05-24-2013, 08:52 AM   #2198
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No bladder, correct.
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Old 05-25-2013, 08:34 AM   #2199
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Originally Posted by Racing4Evo View Post
Yes, that's right. It's all a starting point. I never said your setup was crazy. I think what I posted will work well anywhere with any motor.

Mod is a totally different animal which I don't really race, sorry. If you think you're a better driver than me, that's cool, you might be right. But the setup i posted as well as Meen V.'s is a great starting point for any driver, novice or expert.
Not trying to come off as an a--hole. Im just saying that with different driving styles different setups work better. I am not saying I'm a better driver than anyone. There are a lot of people faster than I am. I am just saying that i have gotten that setup to work even as crazy as it sounds.
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Old 05-25-2013, 01:19 PM   #2200
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I just got the new shock caps to test on our outdoor tracks, just a quick question for
Anyone that may have some experience with this sort of thing.
it looks like you don't run bladders with them would that be right?
I ran the new caps today back to back with standard, on a low grip track, must say did the trick made the car so much better, they take a lot of looking after but worth it 3/10s faster over a lap
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Old 05-25-2013, 03:12 PM   #2201
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I ran the new caps today back to back with standard, on a low grip track, must say did the trick made the car so much better, they take a lot of looking after but worth it 3/10s faster over a lap
Did you change oils? Or did you stay the same. There are differences in the shocks switching o-rings and bladders so I'm just curious if you switched cst.
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Old 05-26-2013, 01:28 PM   #2202
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Did you change oils? Or did you stay the same. There are differences in the shocks switching o-rings and bladders so I'm just curious if you switched cst.
No mate only changed caps, i was running ae 42.5 538 cst and 2 blue o rings,
did re build them very run, but did the trick for me this weekend,
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Old 05-26-2013, 04:30 PM   #2203
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Hi guys I'm after some help!

A few of us were at a competitive race meeting in the Uk this weekend and we seemed to mostly all struggle.. Ive not really got used to this car yet anyway having only ran it at 2 events, but it had some pretty obvious handling traits but I don't really know what to do!

The track is stafford, a highly abrasive tarmac surface where the first run tires are over .5 quicker than 2nd run tires, and the grip difference is obvious watching any car.. (sorex 32Ry)
Generally the track has really low forward traction, although it feels good everywhere else through the corner gripping quite consistently with only a small understeer, but only on new tires.. Trying to use even 2nd run tires feels horrific and it has even less forward triton, no turn in, no mid corner steering, and random snap oversteer moments where the car will slide effortlessly 180degrees or more. This gets to almost undriveable bad on the 3rd run tires..
many people where talking about various additives like using AME carpet additive or other, but when I tried that i found the problem worse, oil additives didn't seem great either though, the best I found was FX2 used on its own, which does not help the degradation of the tires for the 2nd run!
Is there anything that you guys can think to do to help us out? thanks

2k diff oil, hpi silver springs, 45wt hpi shock oil, ltc-r lw, shocks hole 3r 3f, carbon parts, ecs front driveshafts.. I Would say more of the setup but it feels like it is something important that needs changing.

Thanks!
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Old 05-26-2013, 07:00 PM   #2204
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Hi guys I'm after some help!

A few of us were at a competitive race meeting in the Uk this weekend and we seemed to mostly all struggle.. Ive not really got used to this car yet anyway having only ran it at 2 events, but it had some pretty obvious handling traits but I don't really know what to do!

The track is stafford, a highly abrasive tarmac surface where the first run tires are over .5 quicker than 2nd run tires, and the grip difference is obvious watching any car.. (sorex 32Ry)
Generally the track has really low forward traction, although it feels good everywhere else through the corner gripping quite consistently with only a small understeer, but only on new tires.. Trying to use even 2nd run tires feels horrific and it has even less forward triton, no turn in, no mid corner steering, and random snap oversteer moments where the car will slide effortlessly 180degrees or more. This gets to almost undriveable bad on the 3rd run tires..
many people where talking about various additives like using AME carpet additive or other, but when I tried that i found the problem worse, oil additives didn't seem great either though, the best I found was FX2 used on its own, which does not help the degradation of the tires for the 2nd run!
Is there anything that you guys can think to do to help us out? thanks

2k diff oil, hpi silver springs, 45wt hpi shock oil, ltc-r lw, shocks hole 3r 3f, carbon parts, ecs front driveshafts.. I Would say more of the setup but it feels like it is something important that needs changing.

Thanks!
THIS SETUP IS GEARED TOWARDS SOREX and RIDE TIRES

So if you are in a lower traction setting

Go back to non-graphite arms, carriers(allows more flex)
Go to a Green/Pink rear
Go to a Blue front
Change oil should be 450cst/500cst front
500 cst rear (slows down the snap around)
Make sure you are running 3mm over ride height droop front
Make sure you are running 4mm over ride height droop rear


Make sure you have your camber links level. try raising the rear to a 1.5mm over the rear aluminum.
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Old 05-26-2013, 07:27 PM   #2205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NolanP View Post
THIS SETUP IS GEARED TOWARDS SOREX and RIDE TIRES

So if you are in a lower traction setting

Go back to non-graphite arms, carriers(allows more flex)
Go to a Green/Pink rear
Go to a Blue front
Change oil should be 450cst/500cst front
500 cst rear (slows down the snap around)
Make sure you are running 3mm over ride height droop front
Make sure you are running 4mm over ride height droop rear


Make sure you have your camber links level. try raising the rear to a 1.5mm over the rear aluminum.

Doesn't this take the load off the tyre? Maybe I'm wrong, but a stiffer arm especially should produce more traction as it's making the tyre do the work, or should be at least. Maybe there's a certain point where it can start to overheat the tyre - I guess that's why it's called 'tuning' options.
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