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Old 01-10-2013, 09:16 PM   #1531
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I had bearing binding issues when I installed tamiya double joints. And the inner part of the steering knuckle would ream out. I now run tamiya steering knuckles with tamiya double joints. No. Issues, car handles like a dream now. Consistent every outting. U can see my setup in the pic I posted above.
Explain some more, what was happening when using the tamiya DJs with yokomo Steering knuckles??
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Old 01-11-2013, 02:25 AM   #1532
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Originally Posted by Cadman1981 View Post
Has anyone had any luck using Double Joint Universal, other than Tamiya's or Yokomo's?

I know these: Yokomo Front Double Joint Universal Shaft Set [YOKBD-010FW] - break, and there is no pin retainer.
And i read the Tamiyas are not a 100% fit

what else is there?
i would suggest you to run spec-r v2 ECS but you need to add 0.2mm shim for solving the free gapping issue in the axle.
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Old 01-11-2013, 05:53 AM   #1533
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Explain some more, what was happening when using the tamiya DJs with yokomo Steering knuckles??
I came to the conclusion that the yokomo hexes are part of the problem. when you tighten your wheel nut on tight, especially serrated ones, this is where the binding happens...when you take off your tires after, and run the drivetrain with your hands on the belt, you will hear clicking noises as the hexes turn. thats a sign that your bearings are binding.

The Yokomo hexes really pull in the pin and put a lot of pressure on the centre of the bearings.

what I found helped was adding tamiya 5 x 1.5mm shims inside between both bearings inside the hub. This helped prevent the yokomo hexes from pushing the center of the bearings too tight causing binding..

This helped solved my binding issues in the rear using Yokomo rear aluminum uprights.

Tamiya Shim part # is 9804372.

As for the fronts with Tamiya DCJ's adding this shim didn't fix the binding. Although Tamiya DCJ's appear to fit perfect inside a yokomo steering knuckle, once you put the Yokomo hex on and tighten it with serrated wheel nuts, the binding will come back. So I put Tamiya Steering knuckles with the 1.5mm shim between the bearings and used the Yokomo Hex. Tighten the wheel with serrated wheel nuts and Presto!!! No binding. You have to file about 0.3mm off the top of the tamiya steering knuckle to slide in the yokomo C hub. Also you will need to use 44 - 45 mm Ti-Rods instead of the stock 39mm as the Yokomo Steering knuckle arm points closer to the centerline of the chassis, where as the Tamiya arm points perpendicular.

As for the Reaming out:
Since the Tamiya DCJ's "joint" part is thicker than the Yokomos, it rubs against the inner side of the yokomo steering knuckle at full turn radius, causing the "joint" part to ream out about 1mm off the inner steering knuckle.

The Tamiya steering knuckle inner side is shorter than the Yokomo, so no rub issues.

I know it seems like a lot of work to get Tamiya DCJs in, but once in, I found the BD7 very consistent from pack to pack, outing to outing. And best of all no worry of breaking the Tamiya DCJs.

Also getting the CSO front Bulkhead with extra mounting hole, was the icing on the cake to get more steering.

After these mods and upgrades, the BD7 has been the best TC I have ever driven on carpet.

I've tried many TCs, primarily Tamiyas as I love the feel of them, but the Yokomo hands down drives the best.

Hope that helps....

Cheers,
Chris.
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:58 AM   #1534
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Were you using the stock front bearing hub? or the Graphite ones?

The main reason i am asking is i've seen the pins disapear on the yok DCJs, and the tamiya's have pin retainers.

Unless someone has added a retainer on the yok DCJs? Maybe a piece of shrink wrap? or is that not even nearly strong enough?

I put a washer of 5x0.5m behind the pin on all 4 wheels to remove all of the slop/slack, i wonder if that can help with your binding issue...
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Old 01-11-2013, 11:36 AM   #1535
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The pins are too short in the Yokomo DCJ's, they pop out easily. Even with shrink they're not good. Tamiya DCJ's can be shoehorned in, but they rub and scrape on things. I went back to CVD's for now. Well, and I switched to a T4 which has ECS's that aren't garbage.
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Old 01-11-2013, 12:16 PM   #1536
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Originally Posted by Cadman1981 View Post
Were you using the stock front bearing hub? or the Graphite ones?

The main reason i am asking is i've seen the pins disapear on the yok DCJs, and the tamiya's have pin retainers.

Unless someone has added a retainer on the yok DCJs? Maybe a piece of shrink wrap? or is that not even nearly strong enough?

I put a washer of 5x0.5m behind the pin on all 4 wheels to remove all of the slop/slack, i wonder if that can help with your binding issue...
Ive tried both reg plastic and graphite. they both rub with Tamiya DCjs.
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Old 01-12-2013, 12:29 AM   #1537
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Thanks for the tips. The car got a lot better. Biggest difference came from the ackerman shim (+1mm) and the arm sweep. Im still unsure about my direction with the other stuff. I still need more steering on corner entry. Where can I get 4* c hubs in the US?

Right now im running volkers indoor setup.
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Old 01-12-2013, 01:36 AM   #1538
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Thanks for the tips. The car got a lot better. Biggest difference came from the ackerman shim (+1mm) and the arm sweep. Im still unsure about my direction with the other stuff. I still need more steering on corner entry. Where can I get 4* c hubs in the US?

Right now im running volkers indoor setup.
Try the R5.7 RR suspension mount and the 1.3 RF mount and go 1.5mm on the Ackerman.
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Old 01-12-2013, 07:12 AM   #1539
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Originally Posted by Racing4Evo View Post
Thanks for the tips. The car got a lot better. Biggest difference came from the ackerman shim (+1mm) and the arm sweep. Im still unsure about my direction with the other stuff. I still need more steering on corner entry. Where can I get 4* c hubs in the US?

Right now im running volkers indoor setup.
The car c-hubs from the box is already 4deg. From what I know 6deg c-hub still not release yet, still prototype. Only R&D / Factory driver use it at the moment.
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Old 01-12-2013, 11:45 AM   #1540
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The car c-hubs from the box is already 4deg. From what I know 6deg c-hub still not release yet, still prototype. Only R&D / Factory driver use it at the moment.
It's the other way around.

Original Kit hubs on bd7 are 6deg

http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...atible-p-25600

4 Deg Hubs have been in use since the bd5

http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...e-4deg-p-18185
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Old 01-12-2013, 03:10 PM   #1541
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It's the other way around.

Original Kit hubs on bd7 are 6deg

http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...atible-p-25600

4 Deg Hubs have been in use since the bd5

http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...e-4deg-p-18185

I didn't realise that, but this confirms it!

http://www.teamyokomo.eu/yokomo-euro...rrier-6-degree
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Old 01-12-2013, 05:05 PM   #1542
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
The pins are too short in the Yokomo DCJ's, they pop out easily. Even with shrink they're not good. Tamiya DCJ's can be shoehorned in, but they rub and scrape on things. I went back to CVD's for now. Well, and I switched to a T4 which has ECS's that aren't garbage.
How do you compare the 2 cars now that you tried both?
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Old 01-12-2013, 08:31 PM   #1543
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Originally Posted by Mr. MR4 View Post
It's the other way around.

Original Kit hubs on bd7 are 6deg

http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...atible-p-25600

4 Deg Hubs have been in use since the bd5

http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...e-4deg-p-18185
B7-413W is actually 4deg. That was what Umino told me. 6Deg will be release soon. BD-413 & B7-413W is same degree. The difference 413W is just compatible with dcj.
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Old 01-12-2013, 10:21 PM   #1544
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What are comparable alternatives to these optional black shock bladders? I have access to Tamiya, AE, and Xray. The stock ones have swollen up.


http://www.teamyokomo.eu/yokomo-euro...yper-Diaphragm
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Old 01-13-2013, 01:15 PM   #1545
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I tried some HB bladders but I think they were a little too big and the car was pretty awful. It works a lot better on the kit bladder so I've ordered the Yok part because for such a relatively small amount of money it's not worth having any doubt.
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