Regarding any special things done to the shock, as I wrote before, I will and have tested all kind of suggestions from this forum and this is what I have found out.
It was an eye opener to test in Thailand at the FRC track as it was very consistent day to day and the grip, especially in the evenings, was extremely high, some cars traction rolled!...on asphalt! never had that
So many things which I have tested lately on carpet with my team, was very different on this track, and instead of denying my customers on the details, I always try to give my customers and followers the very latest which I have found out, so here goes
2mm shim - take this down to 1.6-1.7mm.
- smaller then 1.5mm then the leaking potential will increase, especially on bumpy sections
USE the conical shims, but with shimmed down the 2mm shim
Use the clear O-ring in the top cap - if not it will unscrew itself and start to leek OR you have to over tighten the cap so much that the stiction will be much to high.
Tip - The top plate, covering the shock body (between the shock body and top cap) you can make a champfer on it, this way the Top Cap (including the o-ring) will slide over much more easy and help you to not get the wrong winding and destroy the winding on the shock body.
- Do not over tighten the Top Cap.
- When having the O-ring in the Top Cap, the way its intended, you should only tighten it just enough.....hard to explain....The way I do it, is especially when using rebound spring, it is easy to see when it is to tight as the shock shaft will not extend fully like intended. So then just gently open up the cap (it will still be tight enough so it does not come off) until the shaft extends the complete way. You can easily compare with another shock, having the Top cap fairly loose, and just tighten the Top cap just before it starts to bind and then they will be identical.
- This is an issue which is not good, I agree, and as with the other improvements I will let you know when I have solved these issues in production and at that time I will of course offer free of charge replacements. Better is impossible for me to do at the moment, so this is the best I can offer.
Again, doing these small tricks, the performance will be what it was intended to be, so even with the improvements from new production later on, the performance will not change, it will only be easier to set it up correctly.
You can also shim down the shock plate abit and the coned shim abit (for the Top cap) but this will not change the fact that the top cap can not be tightened in any other way then described above.
Also, open up the pistons to 1.3mm holes instead of 1.1mm.
I will test with my team on carpet this weekend to see if the things I have learned at the TITC will work the same way on carpet as it worked on the Thai asphalt.
I am still working thru hundreds of emails so maybe I have not seen yours yet with any missing parts, but I am working thru them now.
However all emails I received before leaving for TITC, I send out the spare parts missing and some of them have already written on this forum that they have received there missing parts.
If you have any other questions, please put them here and I will try to answer them all as soon as possible