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Old 02-22-2013, 08:29 AM   #331
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any chance you could bring bd7 short shock towers to gran canary ETS race? i ll be there also
I'm afraid I can't finish the parts before the ETS. The plan is to have everything finished when I get back from the ETS.
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Old 02-22-2013, 09:40 AM   #332
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which is suitable for TCXX?
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Old 02-24-2013, 12:19 AM   #333
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which is suitable for TCXX?
Hello

Which shocks for your TCxx? The STD size will fit.
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Old 02-26-2013, 01:58 PM   #334
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Subscribed and eagerly waiting for the short shock conversion for bd7
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Old 02-26-2013, 11:57 PM   #335
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Originally Posted by Andreas_Myrberg View Post
Thank for the input.
On thing though with the conical shims
- Please use them
- If you then still think, as you write, that its to much friction or pressure on the O-ring then grind down the 2mm shim instead so that the pressure decreases.
- The reason for this is that if the conical shim is not used then the O-ring will be pressed into the coned part of the top cap/shockbody and the friction will increase a lot under pressure which you will have when driving the car which you wont have when holding the shock in your hand and the shock will also leak less due to the fact that the o-ring does not deform during pressure.
I don't understand finally if we need to make 2mm shim a little bit thinner?
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Old 02-28-2013, 03:23 AM   #336
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TITC setup:

during the day (hot conditions - low grip) = 3x1.3mm 350 oil - no rebound spring
during the evening (colder -higher grip) = 3x1.3mm 350 oil - long hard rebound spring - Front
3x1.3mm 400 oil - long hard rebound spring - Rear
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Old 02-28-2013, 04:07 AM   #337
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who's setup, long/short shox, wich car?
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Old 02-28-2013, 06:21 AM   #338
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Hi Guys,

Back from the TITC.

It has been a hugh success for me and T-Shox. Really more then I could imagine so I am very happy at the moment.

In the biggest class Open Stock with 157 drivers, Nicholas Lee, driving a Tamiya mounted with T-Shox (std length) took TQ with 3 out of 5 TQ runs.

In the final it was even better. He took 3 out of 3 wins.
Nicholas never tested T-Shox before I meet him at the race and during 1 day we tested the shox and some settings and after that he said that he was extremely happy with the performance and he wanted to continue to drive them for the race and the result speaks for it self.

Also in the FF class, Surikarn (2002 Touring World Champion) driving a Huge FF car (his own development) changed during the 3:rd qualifying round to T-Shox for his FF car and went on to take TQ and the overall win infront of Jilles Groskamp ( current Touring World Champion).

So T-Shox took 2 out of 4 Touring classes which is more then I could have hoped for.

I also had many people changing during the event (mainly T4 and Serpent drivers as I mainly had short shox with me) and I had many happy customers who said that their cars got easier to drive and had an increase of corner speed.

Settings used on "std" "long" shock
- 3x1.3mm holes with 350 (MuchMore) and no rebound springs during the day when the grip was lower (due to hotter track)
- Evening time when the grip was much higher we used
- Front 3x1.3mm 350 (MM) and long hard rebound spring
- Rear 3x1.3mm 400 (MM) and long hard rebound spring

So for the evening we increased 50 in the rear to make the car a bit smoother and less aggressive and included the rebound springs so that the car would not roll to much in the corners and the chicane.
This is also on of the best displays of what the consistency and easy of setup the T-Shox can offer, especially under changing conditions like we had at the TITC.

For the Short version we used mainly
3x1.4mm holes and 400 or 450 oil, same thing hear with the rebound spring in hot or colder conditions.

So all in all, really really good result which of course made me very happy
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Old 02-28-2013, 06:45 AM   #339
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Regarding any special things done to the shock, as I wrote before, I will and have tested all kind of suggestions from this forum and this is what I have found out.

It was an eye opener to test in Thailand at the FRC track as it was very consistent day to day and the grip, especially in the evenings, was extremely high, some cars traction rolled!...on asphalt! never had that

So many things which I have tested lately on carpet with my team, was very different on this track, and instead of denying my customers on the details, I always try to give my customers and followers the very latest which I have found out, so here goes

2mm shim - take this down to 1.6-1.7mm.
- smaller then 1.5mm then the leaking potential will increase, especially on bumpy sections

USE the conical shims, but with shimmed down the 2mm shim

Use the clear O-ring in the top cap - if not it will unscrew itself and start to leek OR you have to over tighten the cap so much that the stiction will be much to high.

Tip - The top plate, covering the shock body (between the shock body and top cap) you can make a champfer on it, this way the Top Cap (including the o-ring) will slide over much more easy and help you to not get the wrong winding and destroy the winding on the shock body.

Most important
- Do not over tighten the Top Cap.
- When having the O-ring in the Top Cap, the way its intended, you should only tighten it just enough.....hard to explain....The way I do it, is especially when using rebound spring, it is easy to see when it is to tight as the shock shaft will not extend fully like intended. So then just gently open up the cap (it will still be tight enough so it does not come off) until the shaft extends the complete way. You can easily compare with another shock, having the Top cap fairly loose, and just tighten the Top cap just before it starts to bind and then they will be identical.
- This is an issue which is not good, I agree, and as with the other improvements I will let you know when I have solved these issues in production and at that time I will of course offer free of charge replacements. Better is impossible for me to do at the moment, so this is the best I can offer.
Again, doing these small tricks, the performance will be what it was intended to be, so even with the improvements from new production later on, the performance will not change, it will only be easier to set it up correctly.

You can also shim down the shock plate abit and the coned shim abit (for the Top cap) but this will not change the fact that the top cap can not be tightened in any other way then described above.

Also, open up the pistons to 1.3mm holes instead of 1.1mm.
I will test with my team on carpet this weekend to see if the things I have learned at the TITC will work the same way on carpet as it worked on the Thai asphalt.

I am still working thru hundreds of emails so maybe I have not seen yours yet with any missing parts, but I am working thru them now.
However all emails I received before leaving for TITC, I send out the spare parts missing and some of them have already written on this forum that they have received there missing parts.

If you have any other questions, please put them here and I will try to answer them all as soon as possible

/Andreas
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Old 02-28-2013, 02:44 PM   #340
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Hi guys!
[...]

The shaft seems not to go as low as the others...


Is there any feedback about a similar problem?

From what can this problem come?

Thanks in advance.
Hi guys,

I finally decided to disassembly my t-shox before they could have a chance to run... I really wanted to know why I have a such difference in piston position...

So I measure the piston, the shock body size, the position of the circlips, etc.

I finally manage to discover where the problem come from:


It seems that one of my shock is missing a chamfer on the bottom inside face! this default does not allow the piston to go as low as the others...

Andreas, would it be possible for you to replace this item for me? It would be very nice...
In the other case, I would have to chamfer the body myself and lose the anodization...

Thanks in advance!
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Old 02-28-2013, 11:59 PM   #341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airwave View Post
Hi guys,

I finally decided to disassembly my t-shox before they could have a chance to run... I really wanted to know why I have a such difference in piston position...

So I measure the piston, the shock body size, the position of the circlips, etc.

I finally manage to discover where the problem come from:


It seems that one of my shock is missing a chamfer on the bottom inside face! this default does not allow the piston to go as low as the others...

Andreas, would it be possible for you to replace this item for me? It would be very nice...
In the other case, I would have to chamfer the body myself and lose the anodization...

Thanks in advance!


Hi,

Sure I can replace them no problem, send me an email with address and I will send them out.

However this does not effect the performance in any way, the only thing is that it can limit the droop setting but normally this is still 2-3mm of anyway. So your decision if you want new one or not.

Cheers

/Andreas
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Old 03-01-2013, 03:15 PM   #342
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If that's not too expensive for you, I would like to replace this one. That's very kind of you.

Where can I find your email address?
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:47 AM   #343
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andreas how often do you recomend rebuilding these shocks?
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:41 AM   #344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andreas_Myrberg View Post
HI Guys,

Back online after some internet issues.

1. Send an email to andreas.myrberg@gmail.com
2. Write what you bought and where you bought the product and when approx
3. Write which parts are missing
4. Write your address.

I will then send our replacements for you and also obviously use this information for my distributors as they should replace these items, but Hey, these are things new small companies needs to find out, improve to make sure that the customers are as happy and positive as possible.
However as I said, one can not have 100% satisfaction from all customers but I do try the very best I can.

Looking forward to any emails so that I can send out the parts missing so that you can enjoy your products as there where intended to be.

Best regards
Andreas
Quote:
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If that's not too expensive for you, I would like to replace this one. That's very kind of you.

Where can I find your email address?
there you go.

For me, I'm happy with the short tshox on my Kyosho with low shocktowers. Car is very responsive, more cornerspeed, etc. With the (new) building tips things should be fine for everyone. Can't wait to try the shox outdoors, winter should be gone soon here ;-)
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:03 PM   #345
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Originally Posted by Matthijs View Post
there you go.

For me, I'm happy with the short tshox on my Kyosho with low shocktowers. Car is very responsive, more cornerspeed, etc. With the (new) building tips things should be fine for everyone. Can't wait to try the shox outdoors, winter should be gone soon here ;-)
Low shock towers for kyosho???
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