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Old 01-22-2013, 12:55 AM   #151
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I can guarantee you both that is like this.
did you ask andreas?
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:17 AM   #152
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did you ask andreas?
I did, and the video posted here is correct. The large delrin spacer, small oring, and conical spacer sit loose on the shock shaft whilst you screw down the shock cap with large oring (installed in the shock cap).

Hope this helps. An official video will be posted soon.
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:30 AM   #153
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I did, and the video posted here is correct. The large delrin spacer, small oring, and conical spacer sit loose on the shock shaft whilst you screw down the shock cap with large oring (installed in the shock cap).

Hope this helps. An official video will be posted soon.
ok, will try this tonight. It's about time there is an official video or some clear instructions for this otherwise great product ;-)
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:51 AM   #154
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Originally Posted by DirtyDog3375 View Post
I did, and the video posted here is correct. The large delrin spacer, small oring, and conical spacer sit loose on the shock shaft whilst you screw down the shock cap with large oring (installed in the shock cap).

Hope this helps. An official video will be posted soon.
If he said that this way in the video is correct, then his instructions are wrong!

It clearly show's the small derlin washer sitting into the shock cap, followed by the blue O-ring, larger derlin washer then all held in cap with large clear O ring.
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Old 01-22-2013, 03:08 AM   #155
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i think the picture in the instructions are the wrong way round, i have built mine, large white cap then blue o-ring then plastic conical spacer which in turn fits in to shock cap.
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Old 01-22-2013, 03:23 AM   #156
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If he said that this way in the video is correct, then his instructions are wrong!

It clearly show's the small derlin washer sitting into the shock cap, followed by the blue O-ring, larger derlin washer then all held in cap with large clear O ring.
Don't misunderstand me, but you are seeing it wrong. That picture is only to show you how the guidance washers sit on the top shock cap, not even the blue oring is there beetween the 2 pieces, is a side cut view of the top body section. If you take a look into phase 2 it as a picture just like that one, but with the bottom body section.
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:23 AM   #157
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Originally Posted by jorgesimes View Post
Don't misunderstand me, but you are seeing it wrong. That picture is only to show you how the guidance washers sit on the top shock cap, not even the blue oring is there beetween the 2 pieces, is a side cut view of the top body section. If you take a look into phase 2 it as a picture just like that one, but with the bottom body section.
I see he has now added your video to the AME Facebook page so you are correct, sorry! I think a lot of people may have been building these wrong like myself..

He should update his instructions and also provide official video as promised..

Thanks for your help,

Keith
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:35 AM   #158
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I see he has now added your video to the AME Facebook page so you are correct, sorry! I think a lot of people may have been building these wrong like myself..

He should update his instructions and also provide official video as promised..

Thanks for your help,

Keith
When a company or a product is new sometimes issues may arise, but i'm pretty sure Andreas will handle all and will solve them ASAP.

I did this on my own and for sure it is not perfect, in the end i'm just a passionate hobbyist. If this video could help you guys even better, that's why i did it.

Any more questions i will try to answer.
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:49 AM   #159
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ok, did a little rebuild ;-) both building options result in the same ;-) if you build it like in the video from Jorge it is easier to get rid of the excessive oil in the shock. It is somewhat more difficult to get the cap seated right before you tighten it.

If you build it the other way (following the logical picture of the manual) you are sure to have some excessive oil wich can't get away. This way you can't tighten the cap far enough. After letting the shocks sit a day on the bench the excessive oil has come out (through the o-rings/shaft) and you can tighten the cap some more. This isn't the best way of building a shock, at least not at the track ;-) unless you can find the accurate level of shockoil...

After both builds the shockcap and the internals (seals, o-ring, etc) come off the same way, all internals are seated in the shockcap. So constructionwise it comes down to the same ;-) but offcourse the video is the best option to use.

One more thing, for a perfect seating of the piston on the shaft use a 0,2 or 0,1 shim between the piston and the e-clip. I found a little play on all shafts.
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:43 AM   #160
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Originally Posted by Matthijs View Post
ok, did a little rebuild ;-) both building options result in the same ;-) if you build it like in the video from Jorge it is easier to get rid of the excessive oil in the shock. It is somewhat more difficult to get the cap seated right before you tighten it.

If you build it the other way (following the logical picture of the manual) you are sure to have some excessive oil wich can't get away. This way you can't tighten the cap far enough. After letting the shocks sit a day on the bench the excessive oil has come out (through the o-rings/shaft) and you can tighten the cap some more. This isn't the best way of building a shock, at least not at the track ;-) unless you can find the accurate level of shockoil...

After both builds the shockcap and the internals (seals, o-ring, etc) come off the same way, all internals are seated in the shockcap. So constructionwise it comes down to the same ;-) but offcourse the video is the best option to use.

One more thing, for a perfect seating of the piston on the shaft use a 0,2 or 0,1 shim between the piston and the e-clip. I found a little play on all shafts.
Rebuilt mine as per the video today as well, it's how I will build them from now on. However when I remove the top caps from mine now the large spacer stays on the shock body and does not stay in the top cap. Just thought I'd note that...
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:55 AM   #161
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Anyone in the US looking to check out the Tshox stop by and see me at the Snowbirds. I'll have a few sets you can check out.

Thanks
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:55 AM   #162
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Hi,

I bought T shox for my T4, with the springs,

Do you have a starting set up for them please for high grip carpet and running LRP CPX?
I use MM oil and the carpet is the same as the Grand Prix des 3 Frontières in Longwy ( France)

can I use X ray T4 springs please or only T shox springs?

thanx,

Nico'
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:00 AM   #163
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Hi,

I bought T shox for my T4, with the springs,

Do you have a starting set up for them please for high grip carpet and running LRP CPX?
I use MM oil and the carpet is the same as the Grand Prix des 3 Frontières in Longwy ( France)

can I use X ray T4 springs please or only T shox springs?

thanx,

Nico'
I think you can use the xray ones, but not tested yet.

You have a starting point from the Team in Germany:
std piston drilled up to 1.2mm (3×1,2mm piston)
MR33 500wt shock oil
Rebound spring – Short/Hard

T-Springs
Front and Rear – Yellow (Carpet Medium)

Hope this helps.
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:28 AM   #164
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Originally Posted by jorgesimes View Post
I think you can use the xray ones, but not tested yet.

You have a starting point from the Team in Germany:
std piston drilled up to 1.2mm (3×1,2mm piston)
MR33 500wt shock oil
Rebound spring – Short/Hard

T-Springs
Front and Rear – Yellow (Carpet Medium)

Hope this helps.
thanks a lot,
front and rear are the same springs, the shorts one?

if you have a link to find 1,2mm drill please?
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:36 AM   #165
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thanks a lot,
front and rear are the same springs, the shorts one?

if you have a link to find 1,2mm drill please?
Front and rear the same, yes.

1,2 drill i found it on Leroy Merlin, same as Walmart i think. Don't know where you are.
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