FoiVoS_

Alright thanks eunique i think that it will be ok. I just want to make sure that everything is assembled correctly to last longer and have better performance Waiting for batteries and charger now

eunique

iTrader: (3)

Broke one of my 48mm R31 dogbones...some chatter probably didnt help...luckily i had a 46mm spare..but both have a little play since the head of it is smaller than the opening of the MST knuckles.
Also found a lot more slop now in aluminum steering...took it apart and found one of the bearings partially disintegrated.
Luckily i had spare bearings also (5x8x2.5mm) and also had that Tamiya Rocker posts that caseymacguyver has used...so i set it up with those posts...still need to get some 5mm spacers though.

Only found some 5.5mm spacers though...so i might just use those.

FoiVoS_

Problem fixed. I re-assembled the camshafts and pulleys and it seems to be ok. Now that everything flows i notice that it has quite a big resistance in turning. Everything turns good but i dont know if it is normal to have such resistance whilte turning. My belts are not too much tightened. May be the bearings or is it normal ?
Edit: Never mind i think that i fixed it by re-assebling it again xD maybe some parts where not exactly where they should ? idk

eunique

iTrader: (3)

Just make sure nothing is binding...and when you let go of throttle that it should free wheel a little.

slyts6

iTrader: (37)

Ok I have a setup question which is probably a stupid one but I need to confirm...

I have never really had to "setup" a car before as I only really bash around, but I picked up a ride height gauge the other day and started adjusting my D3. While adjusting the ride height I noticed the the preload collars are in very different spot on the shock bodies while the chassis is at the same height... Is this ok or am I in need of training?

eunique

iTrader: (3)

It's better to use a set up system like a Hudy or Hudy style type setup station so you can make sure your camber and toe are set correctly, evenly. Make sure you have battery in it. Not having the balance setup evenly can cause differences when you transition between left to right and right to left and could cause your Drift car to be harder to control. If you did not want to spend the money on a setup station, you can try to eyeball it as best you can.

Then when setting up ride height, depress the shock towers both front and rear and adjust your collar. Now...adjusting those collars also plays with the preload on the springs so can affect how your D3 handles...which is why its a good idea to get the different springs available. Left and right should be pretty close...front to rear would not be close to each other in position.

slyts6

iTrader: (37)

I can understand that front and rear will be different but I'm getting about 8 turns difference between left and right sides...

FoiVoS_

Guys which gauges would you recommend me to buy ?

eunique

iTrader: (3)

Make sure that your suspension is not binding. Remive the shocks and raise the arms...let it go and it should drop back down without any resistance...if it is slow to drop or it hangs somewhere...you have binding and that is what could be causing the difference.
Otherwise...you should be fine

eunique

iTrader: (3)

Not sure what you mean by gauges...
If its for the set up system...this is what I use

http://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-yt...cPath=456_1265

Caseymacgyver

Yeah, 8 turns seems like an awful lot. Sounds like something is not right.

Binding, or uneven resistance between the left/right moving suspension components is always a possibility. With the height adjusted, and the shock collars uneven, do the shocks rebound uniformly? Easy to check for free movement by removing the shocks and moving the suspension through the range to see how they feel. Also check each ball cup of each shock separately for free movement. When I first built mine, I had threaded one of the ball cups too far down on the shock shaft, which made it too tight on the lower ball. It snapped on normally, but produced significantly more drag than the other.

Other things to check (Don't laugh, they've happened to everyone at some point:

1. Same upper and lower damper mount positions.
2. Ball cups threaded onto the shock shafts the same amount.
3. Actually the same springs, regardless of color (Measure/compare wire size and count the coils).

Are you still running the battery longitudinal? Are the rest of the guts spread out to help the balance? Just wanting to know the variables that you're dealing with here. 2 or 4 digital scales would be ideal, but you can do a quick & dirty check of your left/right weight distribution by using a piece of angle iron flipped over to create a dull ridge. Anything tall enough to get all 4 wheels in the air would work fine too. Then just move the car left/right to try and find where it balances. Not very useful for fine tuning, but an 8 turn imbalance caused by weight distribution would be evident.

Caseymacgyver

I took some better measurements on the ones I used:
ID: 5mm (0.200" ±0.003" across 6 spacers)
OD: 8mm
HT: 4.75mm
Material: Alum.

I found them in a box of misc. miniature precision aluminum bits and pieces (Hex standoffs, spacers, screws, etc...) that I acquired some years ago, so they are not "RC" parts per se. I looked for an equivalent at the usual places and they're a bit harder to find than I thought, at least with that tight of an ID.

These look relatively close, but are not spec'd. http://www.rcplanet.com/HPI_Spacer_5...p/hpi86970.htm

I also have about 4 extra that I'd be happy to share with you if you're interested. Shoot me a PM with your addy and I'll drop them in the mail.

Ace212

Hey ive been reading through here and this is one MEAN d3!! Well done Caseymacgyver you have come a LONG way! hopefully one day i get this far lol..

Anyway i have just started building a d3, have ordered a few upgrade parts, like bearings, belt tension post & tensioner for main belt, one way and a few other bits n pieces, i have just fully assembled the belt drivetrain and im not too sure but it seems a bit stiff! I dont have the new bearings in yet as they have not arrived yet, but when i turn the pulleys it feels quite stiff, i was just wondering if someone could shed some light and let me know how stiff theirs was when they first assembled theirs?

Thanks guys, appreciate your help!

slyts6

iTrader: (37)

Would someone be kind enough to tell me the part number for the yokomo type c parts? I can only find them on eBay and they are aluminium. Can these be bought in a plastic version?.

Ace212

hey slyts, i tried to have a search with google i couldnt really find anything, before i buy a chassis i try to make sure theres a large optional upgrade parts list and they are readily available, this makes it alot more fun, id say go with the al parts, they look nice anyway.

As for the sakura, do you guys run the stock belt? Ive been searching for something i could use which may be stronger/more durable, but theres really only stock replacement belts, Ive read about a few ppl stripping theirs, i dont want this to happen, im going to order a few spares just in case, but id rather something stronger..

And if someone could answer my previous question it would be greatly appreciated, thanks.