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Old 01-05-2013, 07:51 AM   #1036
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Originally Posted by tworrs View Post
Thanks eunique, should of just held off and bought the assembled version lol
NO...the CVDs aren't even assembled correctly, so I wouldn't think the fully assembled kit would be any better.
You are better off assembling your own
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Old 01-05-2013, 02:46 PM   #1037
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Thanks eunique, should of just held off and bought the assembled version lol
I thought you were building it ages ago? just take your time, put it down and walk away from it to come back to it later if it starts to frustrate you!

Last edited by pickled; 01-05-2013 at 03:00 PM.
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:20 PM   #1038
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i think pre-tapping the key, i find if i don't pre tap, a screw will get striped automatically, also it will cause less strain on your fingers, lol, i found that out after a few screws and then i just pre-tapped every hole ever since, and like everyone else said, just take your time, never rush a build
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Old 01-06-2013, 01:09 AM   #1039
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Alright, so Sakura D3 + $180 worth of upgrades, or TA06 PRO?
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Old 01-06-2013, 02:54 AM   #1040
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Alright, so Sakura D3 + $180 worth of upgrades, or TA06 PRO?
the TA06 still needs hop ups? theres nothing wrong with either choice and your the one that has to decide which way you go! Tamiya hop ups are expensive, But there are issues with the D3 that you will have to solve by asking questions and by yourself. The fully hopped up D3 is an excellent top end drift chassis and so is the fully hopped up TA06
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Old 01-06-2013, 03:02 AM   #1041
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Great thread
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Old 01-06-2013, 03:05 AM   #1042
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how much is sakura D3 CS?
US$87 on the street in Hong Kong

I'm new to EP RC and drifting (got a nitro buggy last year), but following all the great advice here I just bought my D3 last weekend. Total shopping list so far:


From several shops in HK:

Sakura D3 CS US$87
Team Powers XPS Sport (70A) esc, control card and 9.5T brushless sensor motor US$86
Blue Bird metal gear high speed (0.10sec) servo US$23
Aluminium M3 Flat Washer 0.5mm US$2
3 Racing FOW US$23

Also went to RC Mart to get the following:

FLYSKY 2.4G 3CH RC LCD Transmitter FS GT3C
Yeah Racing Li-Po Racing Pack 7.4V 3200mAh 20C - 2Pcs
Xtra Speed Microprocessor controlled 6A-50W Balance charger/discharger
3Racing Belt Tension Post For Sakura Zero
3Racing Aluminum Motor Mount Heatsink with Fan Mount For Sakura D3
3Racing Aluminum Spur gear adaptor For Sakura D3
3Racing Aluminium M3 Flat Washer 1.5mm
3Racing Low Friction Centre Belt 519 For Sakura D3
Traxxas Alloy Motor Pinion Gear (48P 18T)
Yeah Racing Spur Gear Support Plate Aluminum Pink


Total cost: US$381 including transmitter, charger and 2 Lipos.

I bought a Nissan S15 Silvia painted body with spoiler and light buckets off ebay for about US$18.

Also went to a local toolshop and got a 3mm 0.5 tap to ream the threads as per advice given here.

I started my build yesterday and I'm halfway through - tapped every hole as I went. Went back to Kwong Wah St this afternoon to get some 1mm washers and the X27 SSK driveshafts.

Thanks to everyone here for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience It almost certainly would have ended in tears without this thread!
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Old 01-06-2013, 04:27 AM   #1043
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Originally Posted by HKGixxer View Post
Great thread
Yeah it's good when people help out and share their experience.

With your GT3C you are going to experience a problem with your power switch within a week or so My advice is to take it apart to take the wheel off you need to pop the power button out 2 screws are under it and 3 screws under the wheel another 2 hold the assembly to the main unit to get to the power switch, unsolder the wires from the switch and add some wire to these to relocate the switch there are 2 screws hidden under orange plastic screw covers at the rear on the top that hold the whole top and screen down once you have taken them out run your fingernail around the joint to pop the lugs out. I used a dipole switch and moved it to the rear of my radio.I had to drill a hole obviously and ream out enough room on the inside for the switch

Last edited by pickled; 01-06-2013 at 04:48 AM.
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Old 01-06-2013, 05:03 AM   #1044
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Thanks Pickled, I read there was a problem with the power switch, but I hoped it wouldn't happen to me.

Looking at it once I'd bought it I could see the design was flawed. If I'd spent $100 on it then I would expect better. For $30, I'll visit the electronics shops and get the soldering iron out.

Thanks again for taking the time to help.
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Old 01-06-2013, 05:42 AM   #1045
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Originally Posted by HKGixxer View Post
Thanks Pickled, I read there was a problem with the power switch, but I hoped it wouldn't happen to me.

Looking at it once I'd bought it I could see the design was flawed. If I'd spent $100 on it then I would expect better. For $30, I'll visit the electronics shops and get the soldering iron out.

Thanks again for taking the time to help.
No probs. After I did this mod to the radio I've had no problems with it since. I think you may have wasted money buying the tensioner just use some washers under the rear pulley mount the 1.5mm you'll have left for the front screws and some 0.5mm for the rear screws should work well
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:48 AM   #1046
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Welcome to this great car and the forums, HKGixxer. How lucky are you to be there and be able to just buy the parts flat out...No waiting for shipping!
Have fun with the build and drifting this machine!
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:06 PM   #1047
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Originally Posted by pickled View Post
the TA06 still needs hop ups? theres nothing wrong with either choice and your the one that has to decide which way you go! Tamiya hop ups are expensive, But there are issues with the D3 that you will have to solve by asking questions and by yourself. The fully hopped up D3 is an excellent top end drift chassis and so is the fully hopped up TA06
Actually, I'm not sure! There are just so many options out there at so many different price ranges to consider. It's like deciding between something high end stock, or getting something mid ranged and upgrading it. Kind of like overclocking....

It really sounds like there is a lot of work, but I really won't know that until I actually purchase this kit. However, for my first ever self built car, I'd like it to be as pain free as possible! That's why I can't decide between a cheaper chassis with a ton of upgrades or just a higher end chassis with 0 upgrades. I'm sure there are many other options out there, but the D3 and TA06 seem to be the most "optimal" upgrade from my current Sprint 2.
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Old 01-06-2013, 02:44 PM   #1048
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Thumbs up file the spring pin pulley holes!

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Originally Posted by kneedeeppow
hey guys. has anyone experienced difficulty getting the spring pins thru the pullys and pulley shafts? its as if the holes have not been drilled out enough. i gont want to re drill them because i am guessin the pin needs to be fairly tight

i file them out a little it make it way better to install
+1 this. I filed all holes in the pullies after pulling my hair out for a couple of hours yesterday Using the tip of a pointy round hobbyfile; just so much that the pullies are movable by hand. The spring-pin holes need a bit less filing, they (should) still require pliers to insert, like in 3racings video youtube.com/watch?v=MqhmPopD4RA.
For me it helped to pre-mount the springpins thru the pulleycover and pulley on one side of the pulley, so at least they remained aligned. I added the ballbearings afterwards.

And then i ordered aluminium pullies
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Old 01-06-2013, 03:06 PM   #1049
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Originally Posted by kwadruppel View Post
+1 this. I filed all holes in the pullies after pulling my hair out for a couple of hours yesterday Using the tip of a pointy round hobbyfile; just so much that the pullies are movable by hand. The spring-pin holes need a bit less filing, they (should) still require pliers to insert, like in 3racings video youtube.com/watch?v=MqhmPopD4RA.
For me it helped to pre-mount the springpins thru the pulleycover and pulley on one side of the pulley, so at least they remained aligned. I added the ballbearings afterwards.

And then i ordered aluminium pullies
where did you order your pulleys from? 3racing is out of stock and so is everywhere else I tried lol
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Old 01-06-2013, 03:19 PM   #1050
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Actually, I'm not sure! There are just so many options out there at so many different price ranges to consider. It's like deciding between something high end stock, or getting something mid ranged and upgrading it. Kind of like overclocking....

It really sounds like there is a lot of work, but I really won't know that until I actually purchase this kit. However, for my first ever self built car, I'd like it to be as pain free as possible! That's why I can't decide between a cheaper chassis with a ton of upgrades or just a higher end chassis with 0 upgrades. I'm sure there are many other options out there, but the D3 and TA06 seem to be the most "optimal" upgrade from my current Sprint 2.
there is a bit of work to get it the way you want it but that's true for all chassis kits nothing comes out of the box 100% perfect. If you decide to get this kit get the alloy bulkheads and bearing covers, the titanium gearbox shafts, the alloy rear pulley mount and alloy pulleys. get the solid axle outer joint make sure you rebuild the stock CVD's and grind the pins so the set screw has something to grip. And get yourself some SSK's for a wider steering angle without the chatter. And a front one way. As for over clocking I think if you want to use that analogy then the D3 is like an AMD very clockable and cheap and the TA06 is like intel just as clockable but why bother cause it costs twice as much
You'll still have a hard time with the TA06 cause it doesn't come CS out of the box so you need after market parts unless you keep it 50/50. If you do go the CS route it's a totally different way of drifting that takes time to get used to so don't get put off when you can't drift it straight away.

Last edited by pickled; 01-06-2013 at 03:29 PM.
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