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Old 12-18-2012, 11:14 AM   #931
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hey guys, my alum. fron bulkheads are in the way, another time, i crossfinger to arrive with one bulkhead of each side... lol
I think your saying that you ordered some more bulkheads and they are on their way and your hoping you get 1 of each lol if I was you I'd hope I got 2 of the other side
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Old 12-19-2012, 10:13 AM   #932
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First off, many thanks to the regulars for sharing all the info. My previous car was a Marui Ninja ... it's been a while :-)

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rcmart.com Yeah Racing RC Telfon Bearing Set #YB0271BX These are the bearings I'm using and they aren't too bad at all!
I got those, but was surprised to find metal bearings already included with the D3 kit (eg bag 2, 5, 7). Are these no good? (aren't they ball-bearings?)
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Old 12-19-2012, 02:55 PM   #933
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First off, many thanks to the regulars for sharing all the info. My previous car was a Marui Ninja ... it's been a while :-)



I got those, but was surprised to find metal bearings already included with the D3 kit (eg bag 2, 5, 7). Are these no good? (aren't they ball-bearings?)
They are but they need a good clean and then oiling I'm too lazy and I find that the yeah racing bearings feel nicer? so I used them! the plastic kit makes all kinds of noises as well so when I built my SSG version I used the yeah racing bearings instead cause they were new, just gave them a bit of an oiling before I installed them. the alloy hop ups make the drive line more rigid and alot quieter highly recommended upgrade I'm just waiting on the front bearing cover to be released and I'll get the steering at the same time then My SSG version will be fully hopped

Last edited by pickled; 12-19-2012 at 03:12 PM.
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Old 12-19-2012, 08:03 PM   #934
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Ok do you have the little silver screws in the bearing holders at the bottom of the bulkhead adjustment? If you turn the bearing holder back towards the top as it turns toward the top it tensions the front belt if this doesn't help try turning towards the bottom as you may have the bearing holders in the wrong sides? I noticed this when building my carbon chassis as on the plastic one I could have it at the bottom with good tension. I have good tension now at the second from top on my carbon chassis! I haven't destroyed a single front belt only a centre belt

Hmm.. Im getting a bit confused here,I guess its just me dont know how to play it.. Im pretty sure the bearing cups are in the right way as the other way would only make the belt run less tension as you pushing it down. I dont know if Im actually over tensioning the belt and putting too much stress on it,but I'll try run a bit less tension on it for now and see how I go.
Thanks for the reply
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Old 12-19-2012, 08:08 PM   #935
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I think your saying that you ordered some more bulkheads and they are on their way and your hoping you get 1 of each lol if I was you I'd hope I got 2 of the other side
I do not mean that I have purchased the bulkheads, but they have sent me the Left, under warranty, would be good ... lol say that I had exhausted but sends the Left ... made for me???. can be ... now talk to them because I had not yet sent, and they told me that tomorrow, they will be waiting for it to cool? lol. These people behaved with the warranty. In rc mart I changed a hobbywing I get bad .. but had to send it twice because they said it worked ... every two months for a while ... lol.
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Old 12-19-2012, 08:23 PM   #936
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hey people i was practicing in my parking, i have o make a video and the car seems to be very good, i need i litle more grip in front and change gearing because afer 10 min run the motor doesn,t warmer up and i fell that the car need 1 or 2more tooth. i need to play with front roll center and a litle more. any good setup or problems with it??? i try to help to solve them.
maybe i try 800 cst in a few days.. to control swichbacks.. it seems like it have more control with 600 cst.. 300 is too soft and the damping very little and the speed of rebound is too hight... i think that you dont need to mod the shocks to make the rebound very slow and the compression with more speed simply choose the correct combination of spring and oil, that would be differenf due to driving style or surface of use..I've marked that roll... lol
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Old 12-19-2012, 08:27 PM   #937
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and with one rear wheel with 4 of the 9 spokes broke... lol
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:22 PM   #938
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Originally Posted by Angry_Arowana View Post
Hmm.. Im getting a bit confused here,I guess its just me dont know how to play it.. Im pretty sure the bearing cups are in the right way as the other way would only make the belt run less tension as you pushing it down. I dont know if Im actually over tensioning the belt and putting too much stress on it,but I'll try run a bit less tension on it for now and see how I go.
Thanks for the reply
It sounds like something is wrong with it? I have no trouble with tensioning the front belt. I have tried them both ways round now and the tension occurs for me at or near the last hole as I've turned them around now so tension is at the top and is nice and tight at the 2nd hole from the top if you can't get it tensioned at either end then their is definitely something going on?
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:28 PM   #939
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Originally Posted by chachotu View Post
hey people i was practicing in my parking, i have o make a video and the car seems to be very good, i need i litle more grip in front and change gearing because afer 10 min run the motor doesn,t warmer up and i fell that the car need 1 or 2more tooth. i need to play with front roll center and a litle more. any good setup or problems with it??? i try to help to solve them.
maybe i try 800 cst in a few days.. to control swichbacks.. it seems like it have more control with 600 cst.. 300 is too soft and the damping very little and the speed of rebound is too hight... i think that you dont need to mod the shocks to make the rebound very slow and the compression with more speed simply choose the correct combination of spring and oil, that would be differenf due to driving style or surface of use..I've marked that roll... lol
I run 1300# at the front with purple springs and 400# at the rear with pink springs. I will probably start messing with shock tuning after the new year
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Old 12-19-2012, 10:36 PM   #940
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Hi all,

I have been busy building and modding my D3 during the past 14 days or so. Im going all aluminium hop-ups on this chassis, but I have decided not to upgrade to the carbon parts. Waiting on the front bearing cover thingy to be released, then I will also order the rear bulkhead, and the steering arms. Im planning on switching to aluminium pulleys aswell.

Well my main issue is the center belt slop, I bought 2 of the sakura belt tensioners, but I felt there was still to much play. I didn't want to add spacers, and I did not like the look of the pulley in the middle of everything (sorry pickled, I do love the concept though ). So I decided to mill my own spacer, and place the sakura tensioner on top of that, rising the whole assembly 15mm, and the tension is perfekt now. I just finished it 2 hours ago, and I don't have pictures of it yet. But Im a bit mental (lol), because im still not satisfied with the look of it, so i have created a new plan of attack

Im going to mill my own top deck instead. Making it about 1mm - 2mm thicker (will give me the spacer effekt) and then make some holes for the 2 belt tensioners at either end. Im hoping that will give me a nice and tight belt, and also a more clean look to the car. Maybe... I will make it later today. I will post some pics of it when im done

I have bought the Tetsujin intercooler, and what a nice piece of craftsmanship. Its really detailed, and i love it. The problem was that since the D3 is front moter based, the intercooler would stick out to far from my s14 body. That did not look pleasent to the eye, so I have modified the bumper. I cut out the foam in the middle, and only kept the sides. then i milled a piece to sit between the 2 middle post, wich i could attach the intercooler to. I then had to mill the "horns" of the bumper plate, in order to get the intercooler positioned as far back as i needed. The result is perfekt, it know sits exactly where I want it. He are some pictures of that.




Machined part. The material is a composit fiber, glued together under high pressure and heat.


Gone are the "horns"


Finished look


I went a little nuts with the LED's

I will post more pictures, when I get some more mods ready

Last edited by sgp-chris; 12-20-2012 at 08:03 AM.
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Old 12-20-2012, 12:49 AM   #941
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Originally Posted by sgp-chris View Post
Hi all,

I have been busy building and modding my D3 during the past 14 days or so. Im going all aluminium hop-ups on this chassis, but I have decided not to upgrade to the carbon parts. Waiting on the front bearing cover thingy to be released, then I will also order the rear bulkhead, and the steering arms. Im planning on switching to aluminium pulleys aswell.

Well my main issue is the center belt slop, I bought 2 of the sakura belt tensioners, but I felt there was still to much play. I didn't want to add spacers, and I did not like the look of the pulley in the middle of everything (sorry pickled, I do love the concept though ). So I decided to mill my own spacer, and place the sakura tensioner on top of that, rising the whole assembly 15mm, and the tension is perfekt now. I just finished it 2 hours ago, and I don't have pictures of it yet. But Im a bit mental (lol), because im still not satisfied with the look of it, so i have created a new plan of attack

Im going to mill my own top deck instead. Making it about 1mm - 2mm thicker (will give me the spacer effekt) and then make some holes for the 2 belt tensioners at either end. Im hoping that will give me a nice and tight belt, and also a more clean look to the car. Maybe... I will make it later today. I will post some pics of it when im done

I have bought the Tetsujin intercooler, and what a nice piece of craftsmanship. Its really detailed, and i love it. The problem was that since the D3 is front moter based, the intercooler would stick out to far from my s14 body. That did not look pleasent to the eye, so I have modified the bumper. I cut out the foam in the middle, and only kept the sides. then i milled a piece to sit between the 2 middle post, wich i could attach the intercooler to. I then had to mill the "horns" of the bumper plate, in order to get the intercooler positioned as far back as i needed. The result is perfekt, it know sits exactly where I want it. He are some pictures of that.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps1d88bb83.jpg
Machined part. The material is a composit fiber, glued together under high pressure and heat.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps78e38045.jpg
Gone are the "horns"

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...psb5bff0bb.jpg
Finished look

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps31faa2aa.jpg
I went a little nuts with the LED's

I will post more pictures, when I get some more mods ready
That's ok I don't need a belt tensioner with my SSG chassis at all now not even shimmed
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Old 12-20-2012, 05:54 AM   #942
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That's ok I don't need a belt tensioner with my SSG chassis at all now not even shimmed
I believe they have lenghtent the chassis a tiny bit. Seems the best, easiest, and quickist solution.
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Old 12-20-2012, 05:29 PM   #943
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I believe they have lenghtent the chassis a tiny bit. Seems the best, easiest, and quickist solution.
"they have lenghtent the chassis" you can, move the center pulleys axis, how affect that you move the arms??
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:49 PM   #944
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Hmm.. Im getting a bit confused here,I guess its just me dont know how to play it.. Im pretty sure the bearing cups are in the right way as the other way would only make the belt run less tension as you pushing it down. I dont know if Im actually over tensioning the belt and putting too much stress on it,but I'll try run a bit less tension on it for now and see how I go.
Thanks for the reply
i think that you have to look at bearnings holders
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Old 12-21-2012, 01:27 AM   #945
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Hi all,

Here are some pics of my modded top plate. I made 2 versions. One that is the same strength and flex (approx) as the standard plate, and one that is alot stiffer. They are both 1mm thicker than the standard plate, because I wanted to achieve the same effekt as those who use spacers in the back.

I also made it cover up the servo abit. It suits no purpose, other than I had a little fun making it, and there was room for some stickers. I might make a new one, that is 100% symetrical on both sides. It all depends on wether I end up liking this one better or the standard look. Time will tell...

I made holes for 2 3Racing belt tensioners, and offset them 2mm from center, to make the belt run on the middle, instead of grinding against the aluminium post.

Tell me what you think guys, maybe I should switch back to the symetrical layout or???

Pics:

Standard flex, with cover.


Standard plate, and the upgraded stiff version, with cover.


Fitted with 3Racing tensioners, and some stickers.


Mounted on the car, no more belt slop!

I hope you alle have a Merry Christmas
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