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Old 10-30-2012, 04:58 PM
  #511  
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Originally Posted by eunique
aluminum gear adaptor, titanium gear shafts, 14T front gear,
aluminum gear cover, rear aluminum tower
Looks good how loose is your rear belt? looks a bit loose. What ratio does the 14T give you? 1.87?

Ok rear mounts with spacers

Front mount showing how close to motor plate it is


I used a 1mm and a 0.5mm washer on each end of the suspension pin for a really snug fit, well greased! Sorry didn't realize how out of focus the motor plate was.

Last edited by pickled; 10-30-2012 at 05:23 PM.
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Old 10-30-2012, 06:15 PM
  #512  
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I'm now setup at 1.9 CS
21T rear pulley
14T front pulley

With 8.71 FDR

Seems pretty manageable wi the front one way!
Can't wait to test it out on the drift track!
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Old 10-30-2012, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by eunique
I'm now setup at 1.9 CS
21T rear pulley
14T front pulley

With 8.71 FDR

Seems pretty manageable wi the front one way!
Can't wait to test it out on the drift track!
Sounds good the best bit about using those alloy pulleys is how much easier it makes it to change pulleys! I will be doing the same in a few weeks but I don't think I'll go that low.
I took some time to add the spare washers I had left to the rear pulley mount to add a bit more tension to the center belt. So more adjustability on the belt tensioner.

I see you haven't worked out what those o-rings on the shocks are for? I discovered the other day when I was cleaning them up and changing the oil that on the inside of the adjuster is a recess that the o-ring fits into to keep the thread clean!

Last edited by pickled; 10-30-2012 at 07:40 PM.
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by pickled

I see you haven't worked out what those o-rings on the shocks are for? I discovered the other day when I was cleaning them up and changing the oil that on the inside of the adjuster is a recess that the o-ring fits into to keep the thread clean!
thanks for the tips, buddy! I will do that and add spacers to the tower
and take care of those o-rings for the collar adjusters.

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Old 10-30-2012, 11:17 PM
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What aluminium pulleys are those?
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Old 10-31-2012, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by sgp-chris
What aluminium pulleys are those?
He has bought himself an assortment of 3racing alloy pulleys? I know he is running a 14T on the front and 13T's on the center and a 21T on the rear to get a CS ratio of 1.90.

I dropped my bloody radio again out of the box with my car, I was just getting ready to get the car out for a quick session while my misses was in the dentist. I didn't even get a go! It landed right on the di-pole switch I had rigged up. That's the second time I've done the exact same thing! So I moved the switch again to a position that would be much harder to hit on the ground if it does happen again.
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Old 10-31-2012, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by pickled
I dropped my bloody radio again out of the box with my car, I was just getting ready to get the car out for a quick session while my misses was in the dentist. I didn't even get a go! It landed right on the di-pole switch I had rigged up. That's the second time I've done the exact same thing! So I moved the switch again to a position that would be much harder to hit on the ground if it does happen again.
that not good...
hope it didn't mess it up too much.

btw..with those spacers you used on the rears..it's not too tight? you still have good play that the lower arms don't bind?
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Old 10-31-2012, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by eunique
that not good...
hope it didn't mess it up too much.

btw..with those spacers you used on the rears..it's not too tight? you still have good play that the lower arms don't bind?
I used the spacers all round! It's perfect no play no binding after greasing as it went together and then working the arms up and down about ten times before reattaching the hubs and upper arm. It was a bit tight at first but loosened up, they are a fraction bigger than the standard plastic spacer. I guess you could adjust the wheel base by about 2 to 2.5mm per wheel in either direction to fit your body better? I just wanted to shim it to decrease any play in the arms and it worked out well!

Yeah the radio fell out of the box I cart my car around in, I tried to catch it with my foot but it bounced off my leg and spun so the switch I had added to it hit the ground first ramming the post inside itself. I have a cheap GT3C and the original switch is inside the wheel after a while the wires start to bind and get weak then break, so I re routed the wires to a switch at the back, but I put the switch in a bad position cause this is the second time I've dropped it on the switch and had to replace it so I moved it to a position above the webbing between thumb and finger on the hand grip, If it hits the ground again the switch won't be damaged. But it will probably break the lcd next time.

After I fixed my radio again I took the car for a blast at my favourite space except it was raining so I had to take it under cover on tarmac which responded more like my LHS drift track really slippery!

Last edited by pickled; 10-31-2012 at 07:35 AM.
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Old 10-31-2012, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by pickled
I guess you could adjust the wheel base by about 2 to 2.5mm per wheel in either direction to fit your body better? I just wanted to shim it to decrease any play in the arms and it worked out well!

I'm going to have to shim mine as well. I thought about it before to move the track rearwards since the rear toe puts the rear wheels forward slightly.

I have a cheap GT3C and the original switch is inside the wheel after a while the wires start to bind and get weak then break,
I'm using a GT3B..bought the card to program it with...but haven't done the mod yet. Hope that's the last of your worries with that switch.
Did u have to tweak the firmware of the GT3C? I wonder if it is plagued with same problems as the GT3B?

Hope u still had some good practice...Im on day 2 of 72hrs straight...so I won't be able to practice at my LHS until Friday probably :-(
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Old 10-31-2012, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by eunique
I'm using a GT3B..bought the card to program it with...but haven't done the mod yet. Hope that's the last of your worries with that switch.
Did u have to tweak the firmware of the GT3C? I wonder if it is plagued with same problems as the GT3B?

Hope u still had some good practice...Im on day 2 of 72hrs straight...so I won't be able to practice at my LHS until Friday probably :-(
I killed 2 gt3b's 1 trying to do the firmware without a battery and the power switch on the other after I did the lipo and vr mod on it I glued the vr down with super glue(cyanoacrilate) and the switch is right next to it the glue got into the switch and yeah. I haven't messed around too much with the c even tho it looks like the soldering is better quality on the b it's horrible. like they never cleaned the flux off and it oxidised.

72hrs straight you having a full on gaming session? I been playing NFS most wanted the new one the cars don't steer too well with keyboard control.
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Old 10-31-2012, 03:37 PM
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Default more bits installed

aluminum rear bulkhead
front bumper plate
fixed shock o-rings in adjusting rings
and front aluminum suspension mount
Attached Thumbnails 3 Racing Sakura D3 CS Drift-20121031_140604-1239189318.jpg   3 Racing Sakura D3 CS Drift-20121031_140650675341226.jpg   3 Racing Sakura D3 CS Drift-20121031_152611-1375647503.jpg   3 Racing Sakura D3 CS Drift-20121031_1526241488103763.jpg  
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Old 10-31-2012, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by pickled

72hrs straight you having a full on gaming session? I been playing NFS most wanted the new one the cars don't steer too well with keyboard control.
I'll have to keep that in mind about the GT3B.

no, no gaming. I wish!
I work 24 work 24hr shifts and agreed to help out a buddy on my day off in between so it puts me in at 72hrs straight.

I'm kinda tired...we were busy yesterday.
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Old 10-31-2012, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by eunique
aluminum rear bulkhead
front bumper plate
fixed shock o-rings in adjusting rings
and front aluminum suspension mount
It's lookin' good. they get dirty pretty fast it amazes me how much dust that the tyres produce.

So you can work on your car at work and post online, that's pretty cool other than doing 3 shifts straight
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Old 10-31-2012, 04:07 PM
  #524  
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Originally Posted by pickled
It's lookin' good. they get dirty pretty fast it amazes me how much dust that the tyres produce.
that is true

So you can work on your car at work and post online, that's pretty cool other than doing 3 shifts straight
I work in it a little if I have downtime. and posting...I use my phone and we pay for WiFi high speed internet...so I am able to post online
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Old 10-31-2012, 05:51 PM
  #525  
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Smile

New D3 hopup parts are in stock.

FYI, Thanks.
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