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Old 10-09-2012, 11:10 PM   #331
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Might try to get one expressed then, so i get it when i build it..
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Old 10-10-2012, 12:17 AM   #332
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Sorry for double post, but just found RCmart has updated their hop-up page so i was thinking if i get a one-way i might as well get any other bits i will need. What do you suggest? I was thinking, set of belts, one-way possibly suspension mounts? Alluminum Hubs? Just wanna know what ill need before i go and build the car, dont wanna tear it down 5 minutes later or have to deal with any dramas plus the wait for shipping to drive again.

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Old 10-10-2012, 01:53 AM   #333
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Hi guys,
Wonder this '3Racing (#SAK-X27) SSK Driveshaft For Sakura XI/Sakura FF/Sakura Zero' will fit in D3 & help fix the steering near end wheel shake or not?
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Old 10-10-2012, 02:06 AM   #334
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I was also looking at these, they are categorized under the D3 section on RCmart but unsure of fitment.
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Old 10-10-2012, 03:03 AM   #335
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Originally Posted by ukionz View Post
Hi guys,
Wonder this '3Racing (#SAK-X27) SSK Driveshaft For Sakura XI/Sakura FF/Sakura Zero' will fit in D3 & help fix the steering near end wheel shake or not?
page before has an answer to the question 3 Racing Sakura D3 CS Drift
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Old 10-10-2012, 07:06 AM   #336
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Thanks Mingnon. Btw putting back those uj after trying FR drift. Put heatsrink tube on them to prevent the shaft from missing.
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Old 10-10-2012, 08:45 PM   #337
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i have ran my d3 for 2hr non stop and my axle are fine you dont need to to do anything to them but check them over and check the set screw

now there is something you can do to help the pin stay in place cut a lil dip in to the pin where the set screw will sit and then this way the pin cant turn or move and your good

now i check my axles 1 time every 2 weeks and i have never had one back out on me
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Old 10-12-2012, 05:30 PM   #338
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D3 kits and spare parts are back in stock.
FYI, Thanks.
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Old 10-13-2012, 04:33 AM   #339
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ok guys yeah sorry about my hissy fit on pg21 but just really pissed me off that this happened with the cvd's, (It happened while I was at my LHS's drift track, so was very humiliating and I haven't been back so far! lol).
I got my oneway in(SAK-59/V2) and working just leave the spacer out and put the bearings over the cups!
Just spent another $300 on tools and setup equiptment and extra parts. Bought a set of ssk's and a set of tamiya double cardin's gonna put the D/C's in front greater steering angle than stock (the ssk's will fit they come with a 3mm/W bearing so you can change out the inner 5mm/W bearing of the hub to allow more depth for the joint). had a brilliant idea for the tensioner gonna get a yokomo drb rear idler pulley and install on the zero tensioner mount. I am having some issues with car control I can't seem to get the car to pull out of a drift easily( but I'm using in a confined space ATM since I sorted the cvd's, and I'm running tamiya super drift tyres on a vinyl floor) I can't get it to go in a straight line except when going really slow when it's moving at a decent rate the rear always wants to over take the front I have a feeling it's to do with the camber front and rear I managed to get it a little better by increasing the front toe but I can't increase any more as the ball ends on the linkage are touching now(under ackermann on setup sheet, I'm using hole 1 on the bell crank and hole 2 on the hub)? still thinking of buying a yokomo or/and Sak Zero! I might reduce the CS buy installing a 15T pulley on the rear of the centre pulley to get it down to 1.86 and see but I'm not sure how to install the alloy pulleys which have grub screws, will I have to drill out the holes the pins go through? apparently they are going to release the alloy diff pulleys in late november.

oh and guys this is my first decent rc touring/drift kit so I haven't had knowledge of the cvd's or how to set them up (still using dog bones on my tt-01's) just working most of this out for myself so far!
Do you guys set up your axles with spacers between the bearings and washers behind the wheel spacer pin? I've been reading some setup guides where people do this to stop the axles from moving in and out of the bearing and it's supposed to help with the wobble around the the axle in the bearing?

Last edited by pickled; 10-13-2012 at 07:18 AM.
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Old 10-13-2012, 06:34 AM   #340
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My $300 shopping spree
1 x 3Racing (#SAK-65C) 3.5MM Universal Shaft Cushion For #SAK-65 USD$2.70
1 x Tamiya (#87099) Ceramic Grease HG USD$4.90
1 x 3Racing Low Friction Front Belt 138 For Sakura D3 #SAK-D114 USD$3.70
1 x *Yeah Racing (#YT-0110OR) Universal Set Up System for 1:10 On Road USD$79.90
1 x *Yeah Racing (#YT-0025BK) Chassis Setting Kit (BK) for 1:10 & 1:8 On Road USD$19.90
1 x *Yeah Racing (#YT-0061BK) Delrin Ball End Remover USD$4.90
1 x 3Racing Low Friction Front Belt 519 For Sakura D3 #SAK-D116 USD$5.00
2 x Yokomo (#ZR-DR04) Super Drift Tire Zero One R2 USD$27.80
1 x *Yeah Racing (#YT-0107BK) Aluminum 4mm/5mm Turnbuckle Shaft Wrench (BK) USD$3.90
1 x 3Racing Low Friction Front Belt 183 For Sakura D3 #SAK-D115 USD$3.70
1 x *Yeah Racing Universal Cleaning Case #YA-0223 USD$5.90
1 x *Yeah Racing RC Telfon Bearing Set with Bearing Oil For 1:10 3Racing Sakura D3 CS Sport #YB0271BX USD$15.90
1 x *Yeah Racing (#YT-0023) 4 In 1 Hex Screwdriver (1.5-3.0mm) USD$14.90
1 x *Xpress (#XPA-BN4812) 4.8/12 Ball End (10Pcs) USD$3.00
1 x Tamiya (#42216) 44mm Double Cardan Joint Shaft (2pcs) USD$45.90
1 x *Yeah Racing (#WA-016SV) Alloy Wheel Washer Set thick 6mm (SV) for All 1/10 RC Touring Car USD$7.90
1 x 3Racing (#SAK-X27) SSK Driveshaft For Sakura XI/Sakura FF/Sakura Zero USD$22.90
1 x Team Associated Thread Lock Adhesive #ASS-1596 USD$6.20
1 x *Yeah Racing (#BN-0009BK) 4.8mm Delrin Ball End Size 15.00mm (BK) USD$3.00
1 x 3Racing (#SAK-50) Body Post & Bumper For 3racing Sakura Zero USD$6.50
1 x *Yeah Racing (#LK-0009BU) 5mm LED Light Set (BU) USD$2.90
At my LHS this would have cost me in excess of $400 if they had these parts in stock!

Last edited by pickled; 10-13-2012 at 07:18 AM.
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Old 10-13-2012, 11:58 AM   #341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pickled View Post
ok guys yeah sorry about my hissy fit on pg21 but just really pissed me off that this happened with the cvd's, (It happened while I was at my LHS's drift track, so was very humiliating and I haven't been back so far! lol).
I got my oneway in(SAK-59/V2) and working just leave the spacer out and put the bearings over the cups!
Just spent another $300 on tools and setup equiptment and extra parts. Bought a set of ssk's and a set of tamiya double cardin's gonna put the D/C's in front greater steering angle than stock (the ssk's will fit they come with a 3mm/W bearing so you can change out the inner 5mm/W bearing of the hub to allow more depth for the joint). had a brilliant idea for the tensioner gonna get a yokomo drb rear idler pulley and install on the zero tensioner mount. I am having some issues with car control I can't seem to get the car to pull out of a drift easily( but I'm using in a confined space ATM since I sorted the cvd's, and I'm running tamiya super drift tyres on a vinyl floor) I can't get it to go in a straight line except when going really slow when it's moving at a decent rate the rear always wants to over take the front I have a feeling it's to do with the camber front and rear I managed to get it a little better by increasing the front toe but I can't increase any more as the ball ends on the linkage are touching now(under ackermann on setup sheet, I'm using hole 1 on the bell crank and hole 2 on the hub)? still thinking of buying a yokomo or/and Sak Zero! I might reduce the CS buy installing a 15T pulley on the rear of the centre pulley to get it down to 1.86 and see but I'm not sure how to install the alloy pulleys which have grub screws, will I have to drill out the holes the pins go through? apparently they are going to release the alloy diff pulleys in late november.

oh and guys this is my first decent rc touring/drift kit so I haven't had knowledge of the cvd's or how to set them up (still using dog bones on my tt-01's) just working most of this out for myself so far!
Do you guys set up your axles with spacers between the bearings and washers behind the wheel spacer pin? I've been reading some setup guides where people do this to stop the axles from moving in and out of the bearing and it's supposed to help with the wobble around the the axle in the bearing?
i allways space out the double cardin cvd, by shimming. i find that shimming on the inner side is best, closest to the smaller bearing.
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Old 10-13-2012, 04:39 PM   #342
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cheers for that
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Old 10-13-2012, 07:28 PM   #343
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ok guy i had a chance to run my d3 today after all the change to the chassis i have done i have the oneway in it and because of the its way to hard to drift with it on carpet so im changing the cs so its not so hi

ill let you guy s know what i end up doing
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Old 10-13-2012, 09:02 PM   #344
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I have ran my D3 at the LHS drift track a number of times. I was initially having problems with CS since I'm new to it. I'm starting to get more comfortable with practice. then makes driving my 50/50 seem much easier to control. broke my D3 front belt yesterday
just placed an order for some parts from 3racing. ...can't wait. I ordered the SSKs also and front one way...bummed to hear it's harder to drift. I was hoping it was going to help make it easier. I'll still try it out and hope to get better at drifting. hope SSK gets rid of wobble. and planning on converting my Zero S to CS close to D3 ratio as well so that I can drift both similarly.
I also ordered new 8.5T Xerun for my D3. was running 4.5T and was too powerful! I'm running 8.5T on Zero S already.
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Old 10-13-2012, 09:05 PM   #345
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I ordered most of similar items you got. already got my setup tuning tools and made a big difference in handling. now I tried big negative camber...saw some guy with S15 with extreme camber and looked great!
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