R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-16-2014, 04:24 AM   #2266
Tech Initiate
 
zy0000yz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 28
Default Beginner/Intermediate Advice

Hi all.
I am thinking of getting one of these kits from RC mart sometime after Christmas.
But I have never put a kit together, but quite like to tinker with my shortcourse/buggy. Are these overly difficult to build?
I will be coming from a TT-01 (The base model), but I can handle some "Overdrive" as I sometimes put bigger wheels on the back than on the front (Is this CS on a budjet?)
Also, what upgrades are worthwhile? I will be drifting 90% on carpet at my LHS.
Finally, will this handle a 3S Brushless Lipo setup? (Pushes my buggy/shortcourse to ~85kmph)
Thanks guys.
zy0000yz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2014, 11:20 AM   #2267
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 28
Default

Hi,

I recently built a D3 and installed the 3Racing aluminium front knuckle, C hub, steering arms and D331-ultra wide angle driveshaft (used the M5x10x3 bearing) but still get the chattering when on the full lock. Has anyone experienced the same thing? I thought the ultra wide driveshaft would eliminate the chattering? Can anyone advise what to do?

Thanks!
alunjai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2014, 10:38 PM   #2268
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 111
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

check that the c-hub is functioning correctly. then you need to set your remote transmitter EPA end point adjustment to eliminate wheel chatter at the more extreme steering angle. reduce the angle and loose the chatter... that is assuming that the universals and suspension pins are all assembled and working properly.
rudeboy03 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2014, 07:47 PM   #2269
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 28
Default

I've stopped the chattering by installing the stock driveshaft back in (which is odd). Even at widest steering angle and full throttle the wheels seems to spin smoothly.

I'm now experiencing another issue (Not had much luck with this chassis).

When the car is off the ground, the wheels spin freely on full forward and backwards throttle. However, when I try running the car on the ground, there seems to be some grinding sound and struggles to move (moves in a jerking motion). I can't work out if the grinding is coming from the back or the front of the chassis. I have installed a One way, which is installed the correct way. It seems the weight of the car is causing the belt to grind somewhere? All the gears are stock and I'm thinking of taking the whole chassis apart and reassembling with aluminium gears to see if it stops the issue.

Another problem I'm having is the motor seems to run on its own after letting go of the backwards throttle. I'm using the SKYRC Leopard brushless combo
9T sensorless. Is this something to do with the sensorless motor?
alunjai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2014, 02:49 AM   #2270
Tech Apprentice
 
gillbily23's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Brownsburg, IN
Posts: 55
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by alunjai View Post
I've stopped the chattering by installing the stock driveshaft back in (which is odd). Even at widest steering angle and full throttle the wheels seems to spin smoothly.

I'm now experiencing another issue (Not had much luck with this chassis).

When the car is off the ground, the wheels spin freely on full forward and backwards throttle. However, when I try running the car on the ground, there seems to be some grinding sound and struggles to move (moves in a jerking motion). I can't work out if the grinding is coming from the back or the front of the chassis. I have installed a One way, which is installed the correct way. It seems the weight of the car is causing the belt to grind somewhere? All the gears are stock and I'm thinking of taking the whole chassis apart and reassembling with aluminium gears to see if it stops the issue.

Another problem I'm having is the motor seems to run on its own after letting go of the backwards throttle. I'm using the SKYRC Leopard brushless combo
9T sensorless. Is this something to do with the sensorless motor?
Try adjusting the throttle trim first to fix the motor running on it's own. As far the grinding sound when it is on the ground, check to see if your front wheels are rubbing on the control arms. I had to go with +7mm offset wheels in order to keep the wheels from rubbing on the control arms. I also run 3 degrees negative camber on the front to help clear them as well. It doesn't seem to be an issue for the rears though.
gillbily23 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2014, 08:23 PM   #2271
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 111
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

yeah there's a good chance that your Sensorless setup is the problem. I ran a leopard setup which failed after a couple months. Assuming you already addressed the loose belt issue that most d3 users have, the sounds may be coming from a differential binding for blown bearing. If you have not at attention to the belts via custom tensioner Pulley, I highly suggest you do so. slop in the drive train is a known issue.
rudeboy03 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2014, 09:49 PM   #2272
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 28
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rudeboy03 View Post
yeah there's a good chance that your Sensorless setup is the problem. I ran a leopard setup which failed after a couple months. Assuming you already addressed the loose belt issue that most d3 users have, the sounds may be coming from a differential binding for blown bearing. If you have not at attention to the belts via custom tensioner Pulley, I highly suggest you do so. slop in the drive train is a known issue.
I added new aluminium pulleys last night and still have the problem. When the car is raised it runs fine (forward and reverse) but reversing on the ground there is still clicking or grinding of some sort. I have a Zero S belt tensioner in the middle but still a lot of slop on the center belt. Its hard to work out where the grinding is coming from.

Sorry, but what do you mean by "differential binding for blown bearing"?

The Leopard setup is brand new but seems to have a mind of its own. Is it worth investing in a sensored brushless?

Quote:
Originally Posted by gillbily23 View Post
Try adjusting the throttle trim first to fix the motor running on it's own. As far the grinding sound when it is on the ground, check to see if your front wheels are rubbing on the control arms. I had to go with +7mm offset wheels in order to keep the wheels from rubbing on the control arms. I also run 3 degrees negative camber on the front to help clear them as well. It doesn't seem to be an issue for the rears though.
The front wheels doesn't seem like its rubbing on the control arms but will double check. When the car is moving its quite difficult to work out where the grinding is coming from. To get the +7mm offset can I just use a wider Hex nut or does it have to +7mm offset wheels? Sorry for the noob questions.
alunjai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2014, 06:12 PM   #2273
Tech Apprentice
 
gillbily23's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Brownsburg, IN
Posts: 55
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by alunjai View Post
The front wheels doesn't seem like its rubbing on the control arms but will double check. When the car is moving its quite difficult to work out where the grinding is coming from. To get the +7mm offset can I just use a wider Hex nut or does it have to +7mm offset wheels? Sorry for the noob questions.
You can use wider hexes as this was something I did before getting wider offset wheels. I had some Traxxas Rustler hexes that I tried out and they gave it just enough clearance.
gillbily23 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2015, 06:18 PM   #2274
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 28
Default

I've changed the stock 22T to a 19T center pulley and now there's A LOT of slack in the rear belt (even with the rear belt tensioner). If I replace the rear stock 30T pulley with a 38T would this work? It would give me a CS ratio of 1.46 and it should tighten the belt, but would the rear wheels still spin more than the front?

Also what is the best way to tighten the middle belt? I have a zero S tensioner but there's still a lot of slack. I think this is what's causing the grinding noises.

Last edited by alunjai; 01-01-2015 at 06:36 PM.
alunjai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2015, 02:36 AM   #2275
Tech Initiate
 
zy0000yz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 28
Default My car is chattering even though its 35 Degrees here!

I have a similar problem to Alunjai.

I got a stock pre-built D3 from a hobby store in AUS, along with the "Ultra wide angle drive shafts" by 3 racing.
Installed the new drive shafts as per the manual. Greased with machinery grease.
And at Minimum throttle, EPA open, at about 3/4 lock, chatters. Not happy.
Bring EPA down to about half, goes alright at almost full throttle.
Is there a fix? I heard somewhere a one-way will fix this.
Other than that, this car is GREAT.
Oh and I made my own tensioner.
zy0000yz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2015, 12:29 PM   #2276
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 28
Default

Ok some good news. I managed to find the cause of the grinding. The belts (I think mainly the center one) had a lot of slack and the belts were skipping the pulleys, which caused the grinding noises. I changed the rear 13T to 15t and the 22T to 23T, which tightens all the belts. Currently I have 38T/13T, 13T/15T, 23T/30T, which gives me a CS ratio of 1.94.

The motor is still an issue so will be taking it down to my local store this weekend to see if it's a setting problem or if the motor's gone haywire. If it's the motor then will see if RCMart will exchange.
alunjai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2015, 12:30 PM   #2277
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 28
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by zy0000yz View Post
I have a similar problem to Alunjai.

I got a stock pre-built D3 from a hobby store in AUS, along with the "Ultra wide angle drive shafts" by 3 racing.
Installed the new drive shafts as per the manual. Greased with machinery grease.
And at Minimum throttle, EPA open, at about 3/4 lock, chatters. Not happy.
Bring EPA down to about half, goes alright at almost full throttle.
Is there a fix? I heard somewhere a one-way will fix this.
Other than that, this car is GREAT.
Oh and I made my own tensioner.
Try installing the front one way. My chattering has gone on the ultra wide angles shafts.
alunjai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2015, 09:34 PM   #2278
Tech Initiate
 
zy0000yz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 28
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by alunjai View Post
Try installing the front one way. My chattering has gone on the ultra wide angles shafts.
So you have one with the Ultra wide angle driveshafts and a one way? Thats it, no special alloy or 3rd party parts/mods needed?
Option 2 is remove dogbones and increase steering angle to max and go 2wd
zy0000yz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2015, 06:52 AM   #2279
Tech Master
 
pettyeagles's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: East Central, Il
Posts: 1,608
Trader Rating: 77 (99%+)
Default

Cheap fix for the slop in the belt is to put shims under the front of the rear pulley mount. This tips the whole assembly and tightens the belt. You will have to readjust the tension on the rear belt also.
__________________
A bad day racing beats a good day at work. My RC fleet:
SC5M, B5M, FT B4.2, SC10.2, FT SC10(x2), FT TC5, FT TC4, 12R5,
AE Rival MT, RC10 Classic, CW Pro Comp Outlaw, F104, F104 pro v2, RJ Speed Legend
Traxxas Slash(x2), 4x4 Slash VXL, Vendetta SC/ST
Axial SCX10, Axial Yeti, G-Made/AX10, Losi Micro Crawler, Sakura D3 CS(x2)
pettyeagles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2015, 08:47 AM   #2280
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 28
Default

I'm thinking of replacing my SkyRC Leopard motor and ESC. Apparently they're really crap and I'm having lots of problems with it.

Thinking of either getting the Hobbywing EZrun SC8

http://www.rcmart.com/hobbywing-ezru...Path=1560_1301

or the Speed Passion Champion Drift Combo Reventon R Brushless ESC

http://www.rcmart.com/speed-passion-...Path=1560_1301

Any advice on which one to go for? Or any other motor/ESC system that you could suggest?

Thanks in advance.
alunjai is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:40 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0