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Old 04-06-2014, 07:53 AM   #2236
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Finally got my chassis all put together! Just need my electronics to arrive and I'm ready to romp!! Can't wait for the FOW, so I'll cross that bridge when it arrives from Asia-land.
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Old 04-17-2014, 06:28 PM   #2237
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Originally Posted by Steeze_McQueen View Post
Finally got my chassis all put together! Just need my electronics to arrive and I'm ready to romp!! Can't wait for the FOW, so I'll cross that bridge when it arrives from Asia-land.
Welcome to RC drift, then! Hope you enjoy the ride.

Regarding assembly, just use the Manual, it is a very straight forward assembly, very easy. A bit like assembling a LEGO Technic Car The manual is really easy to figure out.
When assembling, you might want to use some oil to pre drill the holes, as most holes in the plastic are very tight and it can be a real pain to get the screws in. Lubing the Screws certainly helps.

I removed the front drivetrain now and try going full RWD. Modified the stock plastic steering assembly to enable bigger steering angle. Managed to get somewhere in the 80ish degree range.
WITH C-Hubs! I am currently low on cash so I will have to wait another month until I can get my C-Hub delete mod rolling.

I managed to get my hands on a set of hard MST FR-F hard tires for the front and noticed that my self made Tires are actually A LOT harder than the MSTs, which explains why I`m absolutely unable to get the power down on the asphalt. Hoplessly spinning around, no progress made since going RWD at all.

Relocated the LiPo onto the rear diffuser, helps a bit , but not that much.

Does someone happen to know what ball bearings I need for the MST KPI shortarm knuckles to go with the MST Axles??


Some quick pics, please excuse the dirt, my home turf is pretty dusty and my camera catches EVERYTHING. Looks less awfull IRL.







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Old 04-18-2014, 10:43 AM   #2238
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Very nice! RWD looks like fun, that'll be my next venture, for sure. The kit goes together too easy! Got my elecs and ran a couple packs through her, first time with CS. A little different than 50/50, but damn, it looks so much better!
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Old 04-19-2014, 09:08 AM   #2239
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RWD was what I had in mind in the first place when I started RC Drifting. I thought that when I start with CS, I can take the skills I have learned when doing CS to build upon and advance to RWD. But RWD is an entirely different kind of beast.

I now have to unlearn almost everything and start from scratch again. If anyone wants to go RWD and reads this, I recommend to go RWD from the get go. Armed with the knowledge I have now, I certainly would not go Sakura again.

The broadtech OTA R31- RWD is so much more bang for the buck and built from the ground up for RWD.

My GF just told me that she has met someone who is interested in my big scale RC. If I manage to sell it, I prolly will go R31-RWD.
Not quite sure which route to go as of yet. Keep the sakura and continue modifying it or go R31 and have a proper RWD chassis out of the box.

NAH, the Sakura pink is just too awesome!

what electronics do you run in your d3, Steeze? Unsensored or sensored?

quick update on the ball bearing fitment for the MST KPI knuckles: I found out that the inner bearings are identical in size to the ball bearings used to run the spool/ front one way, e.g. the M10x15x4 ones.
The outer bearings though are a different size than what is used on the D3.
However, I noticed that the M5x10x4 bearings used in the stock front and rear knuckles, kind of fit , too. you just have to squeeze them into the MST knuckles, so that they get stuck inside the plastic ring that goes around in the inside of the knuckle to prevent the bearings to get pushed too far inside. The 3racing bearing fits in there perfectly. I then used a 1mm thick spacer with an inner diameter of 5mm and an outer diameter of 10mm to seal the smaller bearing inside it`s "enclosure". it works flawlessly. no wobble, the bearings and the axle spin freely and I didn`t have to buy additional bearings. Just Frankenstein`ed the existing ones into the new knuckles.
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Old 04-26-2014, 07:26 AM   #2240
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Right now I'm running an old, used Novak GTB V1 ESC and 13.5T sensored brushless motor with a 19T pinion. Once I read around that sensored motors were essential to drift, I went that route. Very smooth at low throttle, which is where I live unless I'm hitting a long, sweeping drift. Then I let the RPMs loose and slide for days!
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Old 05-21-2014, 04:48 AM   #2241
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Hey guys in the process of building my sakura cs sport and I've installed the front one way, but how can you tell if its installed correctly and the right way around? I'm new to rc cars, this is my first and I'm still learning
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Old 05-21-2014, 06:02 AM   #2242
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Originally Posted by sssboi View Post
Hey guys in the process of building my sakura cs sport and I've installed the front one way, but how can you tell if its installed correctly and the right way around? I'm new to rc cars, this is my first and I'm still learning
the wheels should spin freely in the forward position. there might be an arrow on the fow tube also. it should point toward the front of the chassis.
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Old 05-21-2014, 06:50 AM   #2243
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the wheels should spin freely in the forward position. there might be an arrow on the fow tube also. it should point toward the front of the chassis.
Freely in what way? Sorry I should have mentioned I haven't connected the battery or the motor so I'm rotating the wheels by hand
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Old 05-22-2014, 03:02 AM   #2244
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when i rotate the gear that the motor will be connected to, in a forward direction one of the front wheels dont turn. In reverse all 4 wheels rotate. if that makes sense
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Old 05-23-2014, 05:39 AM   #2245
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If you have installed the one way correctly then when you must be able to rotate the FRONT wheels forward with your hand without mooving any of the gears . Hope it helps .
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Old 06-11-2014, 05:38 AM   #2246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steeze_McQueen View Post
Right now I'm running an old, used Novak GTB V1 ESC and 13.5T sensored brushless motor with a 19T pinion. Once I read around that sensored motors were essential to drift, I went that route. Very smooth at low throttle, which is where I live unless I'm hitting a long, sweeping drift. Then I let the RPMs loose and slide for days!
I don`t think sensored is mandatory for drift. I use an unsensored system and have no problems going sideways.

Quick update on my RWD D3:

RWD Is A-FRICKEN...wait for it....-MAZING!
There is NO going back for me now, RWD feels so much better, looks soooo much better and scales incredibly well! Even an RC drift newbie can go directly into it without having to deal with CS ratios, front wheel chattering, steering mods, etc. You just install a gyro, ramp it up to 80% and give it a go!
When you are experienced enough you can dial the gyro assistance back as much as you feel comfortable.
It blows my mind that such a small piece of technology can alter the driving experience so much.
I should have jumped the CS ship a lot earlier, so much hassle could have been avoided.*shakes head*

Bought and installed the Eagle Racing Gyro. Good little 2 channel gyro that is very inexpensive (about 15 bucks or so)

I now use r2hobbies T-Drift clones in the rear . Already killed a pair, they are surprisingly good and fit extremely well on the rims.

Hei.Ko Constant Grips went into the front. They are awesome, the compound and the shape make them perfect for steering setups that let the wheels tilt a lot from negative to positive camber and vice versa (KPI/posican/high caster/high camber, etc.). You always have the same contact patch, no matter what. The fitment on the rims however isnt nearly as good as of those MST ones or even the T-Drift clones.

Did the C-hub delete/KPI mod with MST KPI knuckles and Eagle Racing OTA-R31 RWD lower suspension arms and did a rudimentary horizontal shock setup to eliminate the jacking effect (all credits go to Caseymcguyver of course, it is his brain child after all! If you are new and don`t know what I am talking about, please go ahead and read Casey`s posts on page 121 to 127 in this thread! ).
I now have to find a pair of the softest springs out there to reinstall the vertical shocks again to help the front center itself properly.

If someone can point out some EXTREMELY soft springs (softer than Sakura whites!), please let me know!

Couldn`t find those Tamiya extensions, so I made a pair with remnants of the transverse battery kit, to get some space between the horizontal shock and the shock tower. also put some 4mm spacers between the front shock tower and the bulkhead cover, to get the entire tower a few millimeters further back, allowing the caster to be somewhat adjustable.

While I was at it, I weighed all electronic components and rearranged them for a (hopefully) better weight balance.

I still have to dial in the geometry, I am now running obscene amounts of toe out in the front, due to the linkage that connects both steering arms with each other being too short and me having no turnbuckle in the right size.
This very same short linkage also gives me quite a bit of ackermann, which will also go away once I have a longer linkage installed.
It handles very good though. The Ackermann helps easing out too aggressive entrances and the toe out gives the front a very quick response. Too much of everything though.
The toe in in the rear also still isn`t where I want it to be. Still need to upgrade the suspension mounts to reduce the toe in in the rear a tad.


Some pics for those who are interested:

Yes, I know that the tire tread of the rear left tire faces the wrong way *embarrassed*







regards

Era

quick question: How do you guys remove your tires from your rims? Tire remover? Oven? boiling water?

Up until now I alwaysdid the boiling water thing but I ALWAYS kinda damage the rims: they seem to be so hot that they deform a little, and when i use less heat the tires dont come off. I am at a loss right now. Any suggestions?
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Old 06-28-2014, 02:42 AM   #2247
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how do i figure out what size gear i need to fit to my motor for the gear that is on the chassis?
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Old 06-28-2014, 07:29 AM   #2248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sssboi View Post
how do i figure out what size gear i need to fit to my motor for the gear that is on the chassis?
http://driftmission.com/tools/

final drive calc if you know how your final drive ratio should look like for your specific track. Other than that, just trial and error.

what motor do you have (KV/turns)? do you run with the stock gearing, CS wise?

I am running a 19t 48p pinion on an 80t spur on my 13turn(3000kv) motor. Also had this same gearing when I did CS.
If you are running a 10t, you probably wanna go lower in teeth, like, I dunno, 15 maybe?
Again, trial and error.
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Old 06-28-2014, 12:10 PM   #2249
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New D3 Hopups and Drift tires are available at TQ.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...id=59&s_sort=3


FYI, Thanks.
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Old 06-28-2014, 02:49 PM   #2250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erasus View Post
I don`t think sensored is mandatory for drift. I use an unsensored system and have no problems going sideways.

Quick update on my RWD D3:

RWD Is A-FRICKEN...wait for it....-MAZING!
There is NO going back for me now, RWD feels so much better, looks soooo much better and scales incredibly well! Even an RC drift newbie can go directly into it without having to deal with CS ratios, front wheel chattering, steering mods, etc. You just install a gyro, ramp it up to 80% and give it a go!
When you are experienced enough you can dial the gyro assistance back as much as you feel comfortable.
It blows my mind that such a small piece of technology can alter the driving experience so much.
I should have jumped the CS ship a lot earlier, so much hassle could have been avoided.*shakes head*

Bought and installed the Eagle Racing Gyro. Good little 2 channel gyro that is very inexpensive (about 15 bucks or so)

I now use r2hobbies T-Drift clones in the rear . Already killed a pair, they are surprisingly good and fit extremely well on the rims.

Hei.Ko Constant Grips went into the front. They are awesome, the compound and the shape make them perfect for steering setups that let the wheels tilt a lot from negative to positive camber and vice versa (KPI/posican/high caster/high camber, etc.). You always have the same contact patch, no matter what. The fitment on the rims however isnt nearly as good as of those MST ones or even the T-Drift clones.

Did the C-hub delete/KPI mod with MST KPI knuckles and Eagle Racing OTA-R31 RWD lower suspension arms and did a rudimentary horizontal shock setup to eliminate the jacking effect (all credits go to Caseymcguyver of course, it is his brain child after all! If you are new and don`t know what I am talking about, please go ahead and read Casey`s posts on page 121 to 127 in this thread! ).
I now have to find a pair of the softest springs out there to reinstall the vertical shocks again to help the front center itself properly.

If someone can point out some EXTREMELY soft springs (softer than Sakura whites!), please let me know!

Couldn`t find those Tamiya extensions, so I made a pair with remnants of the transverse battery kit, to get some space between the horizontal shock and the shock tower. also put some 4mm spacers between the front shock tower and the bulkhead cover, to get the entire tower a few millimeters further back, allowing the caster to be somewhat adjustable.

While I was at it, I weighed all electronic components and rearranged them for a (hopefully) better weight balance.

I still have to dial in the geometry, I am now running obscene amounts of toe out in the front, due to the linkage that connects both steering arms with each other being too short and me having no turnbuckle in the right size.
This very same short linkage also gives me quite a bit of ackermann, which will also go away once I have a longer linkage installed.
It handles very good though. The Ackermann helps easing out too aggressive entrances and the toe out gives the front a very quick response. Too much of everything though.
The toe in in the rear also still isn`t where I want it to be. Still need to upgrade the suspension mounts to reduce the toe in in the rear a tad.


Some pics for those who are interested:

Yes, I know that the tire tread of the rear left tire faces the wrong way *embarrassed*







regards

Era

quick question: How do you guys remove your tires from your rims? Tire remover? Oven? boiling water?

Up until now I alwaysdid the boiling water thing but I ALWAYS kinda damage the rims: they seem to be so hot that they deform a little, and when i use less heat the tires dont come off. I am at a loss right now. Any suggestions?
Great update erasus . It's nice to see more people go the rwd route ! I have installed a gyro too and it has become pretty dope to drive very close to real thing ! I have the 2CH Telebee Drift gyro 20$ from Hobbyking and works perfectly with my setup . Have risen the front camber to 8.6 degrees and 3.4 on the rear which is what feels confident on my tight homemade track . Still using 1 year old r2hobbies T-drift clones . Tip: ( If you feel that your t-drifts loose their grip sand them just a little and the grip will come back . I do this only the rear though as i feel that the front is stable enough ) Anyway using a food weigh scale i managed to balance my chassis to 50/50 perfect weight distribution . I am really am sad cause there has been a year and i can't find anyone to drift with though ..
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