Originally Posted by Steeze_McQueen
Right now I'm running an old, used Novak GTB V1 ESC and 13.5T sensored brushless motor with a 19T pinion. Once I read around that sensored motors were essential to drift, I went that route. Very smooth at low throttle, which is where I live unless I'm hitting a long, sweeping drift. Then I let the RPMs loose and slide for days!
I don`t think sensored is mandatory for drift. I use an unsensored system and have no problems going sideways.
Quick update on my RWD D3:
RWD Is A-FRICKEN...wait for it....-MAZING!
There is NO going back for me now, RWD feels so much better, looks soooo much better and scales incredibly well! Even an RC drift newbie can go directly into it without having to deal with CS ratios, front wheel chattering, steering mods, etc. You just install a gyro, ramp it up to 80% and give it a go!
When you are experienced enough you can dial the gyro assistance back as much as you feel comfortable.
It blows my mind that such a small piece of technology can alter the driving experience so much.
I should have jumped the CS ship a lot earlier, so much hassle could have been avoided.*shakes head*
Bought and installed the Eagle Racing Gyro. Good little 2 channel gyro that is very inexpensive (about 15 bucks or so)
I now use r2hobbies T-Drift clones in the rear . Already killed a pair, they are surprisingly good and fit extremely well on the rims.
Hei.Ko Constant Grips went into the front. They are awesome, the compound and the shape make them perfect for steering setups that let the wheels tilt a lot from negative to positive camber and vice versa (KPI/posican/high caster/high camber, etc.). You always have the same contact patch, no matter what. The fitment on the rims however isnt nearly as good as of those MST ones or even the T-Drift clones.
Did the C-hub delete/KPI mod with MST KPI knuckles and Eagle Racing OTA-R31 RWD lower suspension arms and did a rudimentary horizontal shock setup to eliminate the jacking effect (all credits go to Caseymcguyver of course, it is his brain child after all! If you are new and don`t know what I am talking about, please go ahead and read Casey`s posts on page 121 to 127 in this thread! ).
I now have to find a pair of the softest springs out there to reinstall the vertical shocks again to help the front center itself properly.
If someone can point out some EXTREMELY soft springs (softer than Sakura whites!), please let me know!
Couldn`t find those Tamiya extensions, so I made a pair with remnants of the transverse battery kit, to get some space between the horizontal shock and the shock tower. also put some 4mm spacers between the front shock tower and the bulkhead cover, to get the entire tower a few millimeters further back, allowing the caster to be somewhat adjustable.
While I was at it, I weighed all electronic components and rearranged them for a (hopefully) better weight balance.
I still have to dial in the geometry, I am now running obscene amounts of toe out in the front, due to the linkage that connects both steering arms with each other being too short and me having no turnbuckle in the right size.
This very same short linkage also gives me quite a bit of ackermann, which will also go away once I have a longer linkage installed.
It handles very good though. The Ackermann helps easing out too aggressive entrances and the toe out gives the front a very quick response. Too much of everything though.
The toe in in the rear also still isn`t where I want it to be. Still need to upgrade the suspension mounts to reduce the toe in in the rear a tad.
Some pics for those who are interested:
Yes, I know that the tire tread of the rear left tire faces the wrong way *embarrassed*
quick question: How do you guys remove your tires from your rims? Tire remover? Oven? boiling water?
Up until now I alwaysdid the boiling water thing but I ALWAYS kinda damage the rims: they seem to be so hot that they deform a little, and when i use less heat the tires dont come off. I am at a loss right now. Any suggestions?