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Old 03-23-2014, 06:17 AM   #2221
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Originally Posted by Dark_gouki View Post
Second thing is I have been drifting since 2007, so when I read in this thread about cou tersteer, each and every drift forum says its gonna be hard to pick up if you come from 50/50, its suprisingly very easy on woodflooring or my local carpet track. So my question is does anyone in here drift both 50/50 and countersteer, and have no problems with either.

Im gonna track my vids down of the drift events we held at my local track. The car was an exceed lightning, modified beyond belief. P.S how do I post vids like I did the pictures in my above post
Perhaps you are just quick in learning then? dunno. I started with CS and picked it up over the course of 2 battery packs, although I had difficulties with transitions, until i changed the rear springs from supersoft to medium and the rear ride height to about the same as the front.

much less snap oversteer under braking and no immidiate weight transfer from the rear to front.

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Originally Posted by FoiVoS_ View Post
Erasus , Take some springs from the YeahRacing pack and put them on the rear . It might be a faulty lenght of spring or tension . Can you take a picture from above the chassis to see the electronics distribution ?
Changed the white (supersoft) 3Racing springs to blue (medium) Yeah racing ones. It is even now, I noticed that the 3Racing springs aren`t the same lenght, one coil turn on one spring is shorter than on the other. might have been damaged somehow.

I also changed the rear ride height and droop to prevent any big weight transfer from rear to front which helps transitions for me.

Weight distribution is pretty straight forward: The big servo (Futaba S3003 cheapo servo) on the right, together with the capacitors of the ESC.
Then on the left side we have the ESC and receiver, together with the whole cable salad that runs from the ESC to the motor. The motor itself also is a bit more on the left side than evenly positioned.

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Originally Posted by FoiVoS_ View Post
Finally i converted my D3 to RWD , The chassis feels way more realistic now . I am really loving it . Have installed aluminum a-arms from yeah racing , aluminum rear bulkhead,cover and r.bulkhead. Aluminum Steering knuckles . Did a mod on the steering to reduce the slop and worked quite good . Now my only issue is that it seems that i need to tension up a lot the rear belt tensioner in order to make the rear tires to lock under braking , but when i tension it up the car when off throttle has a tend to brake itself by the tension of the belts . Could it be my motor not providing enought braking force ? Please help
Thats awesome! I am playing with the thought myself on doing an RWD conversion.

Did you manage to increase the steering angle? what gyro do you use? what tyres on what surface?? so many questions!

DO NOTtighten the belts to the point that they introduce drag on the pulleys! I have the very same problem with my motor. do you have a programmable ESC? If so, set the braking force to 100% and play with initial brake force and even drag brake force.

Oddly enough, my motor brake was best when i applied 100% to both initial brake force and brake force. Drag brake can also help in increasing brake force. setting it to 20% or even higher can initialise some brakes before the real braking kicks in. So much brakes... *headexplodes*

I am planning on biting the bullet and ordering some parts from broadtech that are meant to go onto the OTA R31 RWDchassis.

I wanna get rid of the c-hubs and the R31RWD front end looks pretty much perfect. R31 stuff tends to fit the sakura quite neicely, at least the steering rack is a straight bolt on. I so hope the other parts fit as well...

Do you have the aluminum steering rack or are you still running the stock plastic one?

Also, has anyone a clue where to get stealth body mounts in pink?

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Originally Posted by cjb View Post
Has anyone tried one of these on the D3? I keep seeing some cars that are modified with belt drive at the LHS, and they are so silent. It's awesome!

http://www.oospeeddrift.com/subcateg...lt-3018-1.html
I dont see the need to completely change the belt setup on the Sakura. Mine runs pretty much super silent. The only thing that makes noise is the spur and pinion gear. My yeah racing pinion is pretty beat up and it makes kind of a supercharer-ish whine.

On a side note, I find Yeah Racing titanium coated items like the pinion gears and the damper shock shafts to be of poor quality. The so called "hard coat" vanishes very quickly, just by rubbing agains oiled up rubber o rings.

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Originally Posted by Sjim View Post
I have a quick question.

My Sakura has to much overdrive to begin with. I want a CS ratio of 1.5

What do I need to order from RCMart to create this? What kind of pully and belt?
Why do you want to begin with less overdrive?
Do you have problems controlling the car UNDER ACCELERATION?
If so, when exactly? perhaps we can solve the issue without touching the CS ratio, because it is bloody perfect!

If you still insist on changing the CS ratio, try putting on a 14 t (stock 13t) pulley on the front that runs the FRONT BELT belt and put an 19t pulley (stock 23t) on the rear that drives the REAR BELT. Brings the CS ratio down to exactly 1.66 and all the stock belts will still fit with the rear belt tension post in place.
In addition, if you use the stock rear pulley mount you can even swap the rear middle belt pulley from 13t to 14t, which brings the CS ratio further down to 1.54, while maintaining full compatibility with the stock belts.

Just make sure not to use a pinion gear smaller than 19t (48p of course ,I dont know the comparable sizes for 64p pinion/spur) on a 80t spur.
Because of the alignment of the motor on the motor mount, the smaller your pinion gear gets, the closer the motor comes to the pulleys, to a point (18t pinion on 80t spur when using 14t pulleys on the front, 17-ish when using 13t pulleys on the front) where the pulleys and belts rub against the motor-can.

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Originally Posted by gooba View Post
I just finished putting my d3 together and maybe im too used to shaft cars but it seems to me like the car has a lot of drag in the drivetrain. I have the front oneway and tensioner and ive triple checked that everything is built right but it just doesnt feel right
Are you sure that your belts all around arrent too tight? it can happen pretty quickly. You should be able to twist every belt approx. 60-90 degrees into every direction. otherwise they are too tight and and create lots of drag.
The middle belt in particular has to slop a tiny bit. if you tighten it too much it can still be twisted by enough to look like its has enough wiggle room when in fact it is already too tight. You might also want to check check if the front one way is installed correctly. It has to rotate freely when not connected to the drivetrain.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark_gouki View Post
Alright I have read this entire thread numerous times. I finally bought D3 and purchased some upgrades in the process, alloy pulleys, alloy steering rack, one way diff, alloy solid spool, alloy spur gear adapter, hpi titanium drift springs, and 3 racing wide angle drive shafts.
But I have a question for everyone in this thread has anyone put this bad boy up against some a Mst`s or Yokomo`s, or even those tamiya Ta-0 whatever they are???
Why shouldnt they be able to compete with each other? Drifting is about going sideways. all chassis acomplish that.
There really isnt more to that. You can have the best MST chassis and completely fail in going sideways.

on youtube there are lots of videos showing sakuras going side by side with R31s, MSTs, DIBs and so on.

they aren`t better or worse in that regard. the only gripe I personally have with the sakura d3 is the lack of a C-hub- delete hop up conversion.

Also, isn`t the alum solid spool already included in the set? Mine came with 2 of them Oo ( for the front and back as the stock set doesnt come with the one way, of course)
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Old 03-24-2014, 01:21 PM   #2222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erasus View Post
Perhaps you are just quick in learning then? dunno. I started with CS and picked it up over the course of 2 battery packs, although I had difficulties with transitions, until i changed the rear springs from supersoft to medium and the rear ride height to about the same as the front.

much less snap oversteer under braking and no immidiate weight transfer from the rear to front.



Changed the white (supersoft) 3Racing springs to blue (medium) Yeah racing ones. It is even now, I noticed that the 3Racing springs aren`t the same lenght, one coil turn on one spring is shorter than on the other. might have been damaged somehow.

I also changed the rear ride height and droop to prevent any big weight transfer from rear to front which helps transitions for me.

Weight distribution is pretty straight forward: The big servo (Futaba S3003 cheapo servo) on the right, together with the capacitors of the ESC.
Then on the left side we have the ESC and receiver, together with the whole cable salad that runs from the ESC to the motor. The motor itself also is a bit more on the left side than evenly positioned.



Thats awesome! I am playing with the thought myself on doing an RWD conversion.

Did you manage to increase the steering angle? what gyro do you use? what tyres on what surface?? so many questions!

DO NOTtighten the belts to the point that they introduce drag on the pulleys! I have the very same problem with my motor. do you have a programmable ESC? If so, set the braking force to 100% and play with initial brake force and even drag brake force.

Oddly enough, my motor brake was best when i applied 100% to both initial brake force and brake force. Drag brake can also help in increasing brake force. setting it to 20% or even higher can initialise some brakes before the real braking kicks in. So much brakes... *headexplodes*

I am planning on biting the bullet and ordering some parts from broadtech that are meant to go onto the OTA R31 RWDchassis.

I wanna get rid of the c-hubs and the R31RWD front end looks pretty much perfect. R31 stuff tends to fit the sakura quite neicely, at least the steering rack is a straight bolt on. I so hope the other parts fit as well...

Do you have the aluminum steering rack or are you still running the stock plastic one?
I am happy to hear that your problem is solved .. Gotta check my springs to see if the lenght is equal too :P Anyway i cant understand why my motor on any setting cant provide enought brake force to block the wheels it makes a wierd sound when braking .. My ESC is customizable and i have tried any setting from it and from my transmitter . Anyway as for the RWD project i managed to achieive a close to 65 Degrees lock with 2 Degrees Toe out . I have played with the settings and the links on the steering system without modding anything serious . I have ordered a dremmel to mod my C-hubs so i think that i will be able to have at least 75o Lock Currently i am really really pressed by school and i dont have any time to spend on my lovely car Well i am using the aluminum steering rack as you will be able to see in the pics i just uploaded I currently don't want to spend more money on the chassis so i am using some cheapy r2hobbies t drifts on both front and rear and added two batteries for weight in the rear . ( I know i should get grippier tires :P ) I haven't yet bought a gyro yet . I can controll the car pretty good with out but i am still trying to find one that will work without needing 3 channel receiver cause i use the 3rd chanell for the pop up headlight servo on my 180sx body ( i will attach a pic of it too ) . I am styding so i can write good on exams to go to the mechanical engineer univerisity in my town . They have a racing team with their formula student car so i am really indrested in it . It seems that dorifto must be kept asside for quite a while ...

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Old 03-24-2014, 02:11 PM   #2223
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That looks pretty darn good. How does it perform for you?
I have yet to drag it to the track but racing around in the open it's actually pretty smooth so far. I will update once life stops getting in the way!
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Old 03-25-2014, 12:22 AM   #2224
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Originally Posted by FoiVoS_ View Post
I am happy to hear that your problem is solved .. Gotta check my springs to see if the lenght is equal too :P Anyway i cant understand why my motor on any setting cant provide enought brake force to block the wheels it makes a wierd sound when braking .. My ESC is customizable and i have tried any setting from it and from my transmitter . Anyway as for the RWD project i managed to achieive a close to 65 Degrees lock with 2 Degrees Toe out . I have played with the settings and the links on the steering system without modding anything serious . I have ordered a dremmel to mod my C-hubs so i think that i will be able to have at least 75o Lock Currently i am really really pressed by school and i dont have any time to spend on my lovely car Well i am using the aluminum steering rack as you will be able to see in the pics i just uploaded I currently don't want to spend more money on the chassis so i am using some cheapy r2hobbies t drifts on both front and rear and added two batteries for weight in the rear . ( I know i should get grippier tires :P ) I haven't yet bought a gyro yet . I can controll the car pretty good with out but i am still trying to find one that will work without needing 3 channel receiver cause i use the 3rd chanell for the pop up headlight servo on my 180sx body ( i will attach a pic of it too ) . I am styding so i can write good on exams to go to the mechanical engineer univerisity in my town . They have a racing team with their formula student car so i am really indrested in it . It seems that dorifto must be kept asside for quite a while ...

for rwd your prolly gonna need a bit more angle. ide suggest doing a c hub delete. do some sort of type C steering mod to the front. also maybe mount your lipo on the rear diffuser. a lot of rwd guys swear by that.
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Old 03-27-2014, 11:16 AM   #2225
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hey there!

Sad to hear that your motor seems to have a problem. Have you tried fiddling around with the throttle neutral point, so when you go off throttle that it is actually completely off throttle, neither accelerating nor braking?

my ESC has an indicator light that lights up to green when it is on perfect neutral, and both red and green lights light up when it is on forward or reverse even the slightest, so I can pin down the neutral point pretty accurately.

At least on my ESC, when the neutral throttle position is slightly off to acceleration, it messes up the entire brake setup, it just doesnt brake properly anymore when I do not set up the perfect neutral point on my remote.

you can check your neutral position either by indicator lights if yours have one too, or by setting up the drag brake force to 100%. then accelerate your car, go off throttle and see if the rear tires apply any brake force or not. if they just spin on without applying any brake force, either your motor cannot brake or your throttle neutral position is off.

OH and what running mode are you running? forward with brake and reverse or forward and brake only? perhaps changing the running mode can yield better results for you.


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Originally Posted by gerakatom View Post
for rwd your prolly gonna need a bit more angle. ide suggest doing a c hub delete. do some sort of type C steering mod to the front. also maybe mount your lipo on the rear diffuser. a lot of rwd guys swear by that.
Type c steering mod? would you be so kind explaining what that is? much appreciated.

Next month I try to make a c hub delete mod by purchasing some r31rwd items. hope it turns out good.

good luck with your studies, FoiVos!


Hey, just noticed you use a HobbyWing ESC, as well! It is a Xerun, right? it should have indicator lights as well. I only have the unsensored EZRun, you prolly have multiple options to setup your timings as well, dont you? perhaps your motor timing is off, then? have you tried more aggressive timings? also played with the punch mode? i dont know if it affects reverse/braking too but i assume increasing it should give the motor a bit more oomph, perhaps braking power improves too
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Old 03-27-2014, 02:32 PM   #2226
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Type c is a c hubless type suspension standard on type c yokomo drift package chassis. Its just another way of saying c hub delete.
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Old 03-27-2014, 04:07 PM   #2227
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Type c is a c hubless type suspension standard on type c yokomo drift package chassis. Its just another way of saying c hub delete.
ahh, okay, pretty much what i am planning to do. thanks for the clarification!
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Old 03-27-2014, 05:18 PM   #2228
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Yeah no worries. I guess i coulda just left that part out. Lol
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Old 03-28-2014, 06:52 AM   #2229
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Has anybody tried to put an interior in their body with this chassis? Im looking at a tamiya interior was wondering about clearance issues with the center belt.
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Old 03-28-2014, 07:19 AM   #2230
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Has anybody tried to put an interior in their body with this chassis? Im looking at a tamiya interior was wondering about clearance issues with the center belt.
my guess itll be fine. ive seen it used on lots of belt drive chassis with no problems. i say go for it.
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Old 03-28-2014, 08:57 AM   #2231
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RCMart has engine bays now! so awesome! http://www.rcmart.com/advanced_searc...ne+bay&x=0&y=0
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Old 03-30-2014, 11:55 AM   #2232
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...I haven't yet bought a gyro yet . I can controll the car pretty good with out but i am still trying to find one that will work without needing 3 channel receiver ...
try searching for "piezo gyro like this one or this.

it is meant to run on 2 channel remotes
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Old 03-30-2014, 08:41 PM   #2233
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Just ordered my kit today, along with the FOW. Stoked for my first car build!
Any suggestions for what you guys consider the best build thread, in case I need any guidance along the way?
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Old 03-30-2014, 09:09 PM   #2234
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Theres a good thread on these in the CS junkies forum.
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Old 03-31-2014, 08:33 AM   #2235
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Right on, I'll be sure to check it out.
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