Originally Posted by Dark_gouki
Second thing is I have been drifting since 2007, so when I read in this thread about cou tersteer, each and every drift forum says its gonna be hard to pick up if you come from 50/50, its suprisingly very easy on woodflooring or my local carpet track. So my question is does anyone in here drift both 50/50 and countersteer, and have no problems with either.
Im gonna track my vids down of the drift events we held at my local track. The car was an exceed lightning, modified beyond belief. P.S how do I post vids like I did the pictures in my above post
Perhaps you are just quick in learning then? dunno. I started with CS and picked it up over the course of 2 battery packs, although I had difficulties with transitions, until i changed the rear springs from supersoft to medium and the rear ride height to about the same as the front.
much less snap oversteer under braking and no immidiate weight transfer from the rear to front.
Originally Posted by FoiVoS_
Erasus , Take some springs from the YeahRacing pack and put them on the rear . It might be a faulty lenght of spring or tension . Can you take a picture from above the chassis to see the electronics distribution ?
Changed the white (supersoft) 3Racing springs to blue (medium) Yeah racing ones. It is even now, I noticed that the 3Racing springs aren`t the same lenght, one coil turn on one spring is shorter than on the other. might have been damaged somehow.
I also changed the rear ride height and droop to prevent any big weight transfer from rear to front which helps transitions for me.
Weight distribution is pretty straight forward: The big servo (Futaba S3003 cheapo servo) on the right, together with the capacitors of the ESC.
Then on the left side we have the ESC and receiver, together with the whole cable salad that runs from the ESC to the motor. The motor itself also is a bit more on the left side than evenly positioned.
Originally Posted by FoiVoS_
Finally i converted my D3 to RWD , The chassis feels way more realistic now . I am really loving it . Have installed aluminum a-arms from yeah racing , aluminum rear bulkhead,cover and r.bulkhead. Aluminum Steering knuckles . Did a mod on the steering to reduce the slop and worked quite good . Now my only issue is that it seems that i need to tension up a lot the rear belt tensioner in order to make the rear tires to lock under braking , but when i tension it up the car when off throttle has a tend to brake itself by the tension of the belts . Could it be my motor not providing enought braking force ? Please help
Thats awesome! I am playing with the thought myself on doing an RWD conversion.
Did you manage to increase the steering angle? what gyro do you use? what tyres on what surface?? so many questions!
tighten the belts to the point that they introduce drag on the pulleys! I have the very same problem with my motor. do you have a programmable ESC? If so, set the braking force to 100% and play with initial brake force and even drag brake force.
Oddly enough, my motor brake was best when i applied 100% to both initial brake force and brake force. Drag brake can also help in increasing brake force. setting it to 20% or even higher can initialise some brakes before the real braking kicks in. So much brakes... *headexplodes*
I am planning on biting the bullet and ordering some parts from broadtech that are meant to go onto the OTA R31 RWDchassis.
I wanna get rid of the c-hubs and the R31RWD front end looks pretty much perfect. R31 stuff tends to fit the sakura quite neicely, at least the steering rack is a straight bolt on. I so hope the other parts fit as well...
Do you have the aluminum steering rack or are you still running the stock plastic one?
Also, has anyone a clue where to get stealth body mounts in pink?
I dont see the need to completely change the belt setup on the Sakura. Mine runs pretty much super silent. The only thing that makes noise is the spur and pinion gear. My yeah racing pinion is pretty beat up and it makes kind of a supercharer-ish whine.
On a side note, I find Yeah Racing titanium coated items like the pinion gears and the damper shock shafts to be of poor quality. The so called "hard coat" vanishes very quickly, just by rubbing agains oiled up rubber o rings.
Originally Posted by Sjim
I have a quick question.
My Sakura has to much overdrive to begin with. I want a CS ratio of 1.5
What do I need to order from RCMart to create this? What kind of pully and belt?
Why do you want to begin with less overdrive?
Do you have problems controlling the car UNDER ACCELERATION
If so, when exactly? perhaps we can solve the issue without touching the CS ratio, because it is bloody perfect!
If you still insist on changing the CS ratio, try putting on a 14 t (stock 13t) pulley on the front that runs the FRONT BELT belt and put an 19t pulley (stock 23t) on the rear that drives the REAR BELT. Brings the CS ratio down to exactly 1.66 and all the stock belts will still fit with the rear belt tension post in place.
In addition, if you use the stock rear pulley mount you can even swap the rear middle belt pulley from 13t to 14t, which brings the CS ratio further down to 1.54, while maintaining full compatibility with the stock belts.
Just make sure not to use a pinion gear smaller than 19t (48p of course ,I dont know the comparable sizes for 64p pinion/spur) on a 80t spur.
Because of the alignment of the motor on the motor mount, the smaller your pinion gear gets, the closer the motor comes to the pulleys, to a point (18t pinion on 80t spur when using 14t pulleys on the front, 17-ish when using 13t pulleys on the front) where the pulleys and belts rub against the motor-can.
Originally Posted by gooba
I just finished putting my d3 together and maybe im too used to shaft cars but it seems to me like the car has a lot of drag in the drivetrain. I have the front oneway and tensioner and ive triple checked that everything is built right but it just doesnt feel right
Are you sure that your belts all around arrent too tight? it can happen pretty quickly. You should be able to twist every belt approx. 60-90 degrees into every direction. otherwise they are too tight and and create lots of drag.
The middle belt in particular has to slop a tiny bit. if you tighten it too much it can still be twisted by enough to look like its has enough wiggle room when in fact it is already too tight. You might also want to check check if the front one way is installed correctly. It has to rotate freely when not connected to the drivetrain.
Originally Posted by Dark_gouki
Alright I have read this entire thread numerous times. I finally bought D3 and purchased some upgrades in the process, alloy pulleys, alloy steering rack, one way diff, alloy solid spool, alloy spur gear adapter, hpi titanium drift springs, and 3 racing wide angle drive shafts.
But I have a question for everyone in this thread has anyone put this bad boy up against some a Mst`s or Yokomo`s, or even those tamiya Ta-0 whatever they are???
Why shouldnt they be able to compete with each other? Drifting is about going sideways. all chassis acomplish that.
There really isnt more to that. You can have the best MST chassis and completely fail in going sideways.
on youtube there are lots of videos showing sakuras going side by side with R31s, MSTs, DIBs and so on.
they aren`t better or worse in that regard. the only gripe I personally have with the sakura d3 is the lack of a C-hub- delete hop up conversion.
Also, isn`t the alum solid spool already included in the set? Mine came with 2 of them Oo ( for the front and back as the stock set doesnt come with the one way, of course)