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Old 07-03-2013, 02:59 AM   #2011
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First. Welcome to the hobby!

I have been in and around the hobby, thanks to my Father, for the past 20+ years. I only just got serious about road racing and drift vehicles last September. Again, thanks to (wanting to beat) my Father. Learning the detailed ins and outs of vehicle setup has been by far the most challenging fun I have ever had.

That being said. I am no expert, but I can tell you a few hings I have learned overall and about the Sakura D3 CS chassis.


#1 Use a good radio.
~ I started off using a Hobby King/Flysky GT3B radio. Although not bad to get started it has a framerate of 22ms. Frame rate being the time it takes for input command at the radio to reach the car. I switched to a Spektrum with a 5.5ms frame rate and noticed great improvement in control in all my on and off road vehicles. Futaba. K.O. Proppo and Airtronics/Sanwa also make excellent radios and receivers, but I got my Spektrum very cheap second hand.

#2 Use good servos
~ $10 servos are great for playing with a truck in the back yard. But useless for anything that demands complete control. I am a fan of Savox and use a 1251MG or better in all of my vehicles. Quick radios are useless without quick servos. Again, Futaba, HiTek, JR and others make great servos, but I get Savox at a good price.

Those are the two biggest things I see people skimping on that have the biggest effect. Of course you should use quality brushless motors, Speed controllers and Lipo batteries. The cheaper it is at full retail the cheaper it is made.

As far as a setup for tile goes. I am not sure of a good starting point but be assured there are no magic numbers or universally great setups. It's all about finding a setup you can drive. My D3 is set as follows and runs great at my Locall Hobby shop on CRC HD carpet.

Front:
Ride Height: 5mm
Camber: 3*
Springs: Purple-3racing
Damper oil: 35wt
Wheels: HPI TE37 6mm offset
Tires: Raikou DXPE
Droop: screws removed

Rear:
Ride height: 7mm
Camber: 3*
Springs: Pink-3racing
Damper oil: 100wt
Wheels: HPI TE37 6mm offset
tires: Raikou DXPE
droop: screws removed.

The only upgrades I have really made are using different pulleys to reduce my cs ratio to 1.63 down from the stock 2.14 and the front one way. With just those upgrades and learning to drive my D3, I have been getting some amazing drifts and transitions. I will try and get a video up for you guys over the long weekend coming up.

I hope some of this helps.
Thanks for helping. I got a Flysky GT3C and i am pretty happy with it. As for the servo i have Bluebird MG621 Metal gear servo . It's kinda quick but after 10min it gets hot .. Is this normal ?
For the droop . How much should i have ? Does rear droop help transitions or not ? Which pulley should i get to reduce my CS to ~1.6 for now ?
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Old 07-03-2013, 03:58 AM   #2012
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Thanks for helping. I got a Flysky GT3C and i am pretty happy with it. As for the servo i have Bluebird MG621 Metal gear servo . It's kinda quick but after 10min it gets hot .. Is this normal ?
For the droop . How much should i have ? Does rear droop help transitions or not ? Which pulley should i get to reduce my CS to ~1.6 for now ?
I've removed all my droop screws. IMHO it does help transitions as it keeps the rear wheels planted and keeps the car more predictable.
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Old 07-03-2013, 04:01 AM   #2013
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Hi Guys, new to the world of rc. Have just ordered this kit and am pumped to start learning more. Just a quick question- I am ordering my motor and esc, and am really confused on best set up for this car. I will be going brushless and sensored, but what size??? Is 8.5t best for drift of higher turns. And 80a or 120a? Would really appreciate some advice. Thanks heaps
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Old 07-03-2013, 02:11 PM   #2014
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Where are you attached for the rear camber links (Roll center)?
Are you using something with dual radiused sidewalls for the front wheels (Raikou DP50)?
For the rear camber links, I'm attached at rear hubs and the arms.
No, still waiting to order thode Raikou tires...my other Raikous are not radiused although I could probably mod them...but ill just get a new set.


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Stick with it, glad you had a spare! If the outdrive shafts are still smooth, then it's the bearing that failed. You should have no problem replacing the individual parts.

I should have mentioned to look out for that. Mine at 46mm are just barely enough and I'll definitely go longer when they're toasted. I noticed the outdrives wobbling out sometimes, so I cut a small piece of silicone tubing, maybe 3/16" long and put it in the outdrive cup. It doesn't put pressure on the dogbone, but when the wheels turn past straight ahead, the dogbone pushes the outdrive back in a bit.

The offset adapter on the knuckle's upper ball, combined with the inner hole on the lower ball, helped me to reduce the amount of reverse swing on the CVD. Basically, it moved the steering pivot inward and closer to the CVD pivot, while keeping the same KPI.

How much caster are you running? Need pics
Yes, luckily I had a spare FOw. So, are you saying that those one way bearings can be easily replaced? How? And where do i find replacement one way bearing?

And I did fix the angle and used the extenders to narrow down the caster. I might later drill the lower arm and lower ball joint so its pushed fwd and get even greater caster (like in the lower joint of the gold Yokomo) but still prevent extreme angle (reverse swing) to the universals.

I am now using a 48mm Eagle Racing wide angle universal..although my lower arms are still too long..so angles are relatively same until I can shorten.


Thanks for the advice on the 90 on the links/attachments...ill have to revise then and readjust.








I'll be able to test it out on carpet later on and see how it goes. So far on polished concrete I feel a difference and even without front horizontal shocks, it does posican.


do remember one of my kits that inserted a small piece of foam from the bumper into the holes of the outdrives.
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Old 07-03-2013, 02:17 PM   #2015
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Originally Posted by oshuaj View Post
I will be going brushless and sensored, but what size??? Is 8.5t best for drift of higher turns. And 80a or 120a? Would really appreciate some advice. Thanks heaps

If you check youtube, you'll find people running beautifully on everything from 8.5T to 13.5T.

I already had a 13.5T/100A combo handy when I got my CS D3 and was a bit worried it would be too slow, but it packs all the punch I need on both concrete and asphalt.
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Old 07-03-2013, 02:54 PM   #2016
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awesome looking mods eunique
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Old 07-03-2013, 06:47 PM   #2017
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awesome looking mods eunique
Thanks Pickled..man, its been a while since I heard from you. How are your drift machines?
And thanks Caseymacgyver for the insight and help on the posican setup.

Here's the pic of my caster angle


Update: I ran through a battery today at the LHS carpet drift track and after about halfway, added the front horizontal shock and adjusted ride height (initially my front end was up in the air even with shock collars backed all the way out) and figured out how to lower it.
I'm definitely happy with the way it handles and how the rear is trailing during the drift (nice angles)!
I'd say with more tweaking and adjustments that it will just get better as I get more familiar with how it works....I still need to rework the angles on the rear links
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Old 07-04-2013, 02:05 AM   #2018
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Looking really, really good Eunique! Never said it would be easy, but you're definitely getting there. So glad to hear you got some good drive time out of it.

I probably spoke too soon about the one way bearings. I've done one on a heli and I've seen various sizes available and I know they can be pressed out of he spool through the far side, but it's almost certainly not worth the effort unless the D3 FOW's are back ordered again. Not really a field replacement option either.

I'm out of town for the Holiday, but a couple of quick comments:

Check the lock nuts on the front pivot posts. It looks like the set screw doesn't quite reach the nylon on one of them.

You could probably ditch the adapters on the rear pivots and just use spacers under the posts to get the shock to clear the tower. Everything lines up really well back there all in the same plane.

The Raduised tires in the front will make a BIG difference too. I imagine you might need to wear them in somehow if you're running on a low/no wear surface. Even the DP50's still have a flat patch in the middle. It takes me about 1 pack on asphalt or broom-finished concrete to have them rounded out pretty evenly.

What bearing are you running on the inside of the MST knuckle? It seems like a lot of the outer race is visible. Might just be due to the Eagle CVD's.

Keep at it man, the breakthrough is near.
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Old 07-04-2013, 05:14 AM   #2019
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If you check youtube, you'll find people running beautifully on everything from 8.5T to 13.5T.

I already had a 13.5T/100A combo handy when I got my CS D3 and was a bit worried it would be too slow, but it packs all the punch I need on both concrete and asphalt.
thank you appreciate it
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Old 07-05-2013, 10:07 AM   #2020
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Looking really, really good Eunique! Never said it would be easy, but you're definitely getting there. So glad to hear you got some good drive time out of it.

I probably spoke too soon about the one way bearings. I've done one on a heli and I've seen various sizes available and I know they can be pressed out of he spool through the far side, but it's almost certainly not worth the effort unless the D3 FOW's are back ordered again. Not really a field replacement option either.

I'm out of town for the Holiday, but a couple of quick comments:

Check the lock nuts on the front pivot posts. It looks like the set screw doesn't quite reach the nylon on one of them.

You could probably ditch the adapters on the rear pivots and just use spacers under the posts to get the shock to clear the tower. Everything lines up really well back there all in the same plane.

The Raduised tires in the front will make a BIG difference too. I imagine you might need to wear them in somehow if you're running on a low/no wear surface. Even the DP50's still have a flat patch in the middle. It takes me about 1 pack on asphalt or broom-finished concrete to have them rounded out pretty evenly.

What bearing are you running on the inside of the MST knuckle? It seems like a lot of the outer race is visible. Might just be due to the Eagle CVD's.

Keep at it man, the breakthrough is near.
I won't be experimenting on the FOW for now..I'll get another as a spare (just in case) and keep the broken one in the event I try to replace a bearing.

I'll have to replace that set screw with a longer one...you are correct. It kent reach the plastic on the lock nut.

I'll look into ditching the adapters for the rear pivots and using spacers. Besides I could probably use those on the top ball joint for the front knuckles and get an even greater KPI angle like on yours. Right now I'm just using the available holes on the MST knuckles.

I've got an order placed for the Kikaku twin springs and some radiused tires which seems like it doesnt have a flat spot like on those Raikou's. Although I do have a set ordered of the Raikou's DP50s as well just in case. I need to experiment with both compounds and see which I like better on carpet drift track.

For the bearings...I am using double bearings in the inner of the MST knuckles which I thought I read somewhere that Pickled has suggested. Pickled, could you clarify on that? And since those Eagle CVDs don't have set screws for the pins similar to the Square ones...the bearings keep the pins in place. But I am not able to insert a pin through the front axles. I have hub adaptors that pinch down onto the front axles.
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Old 07-06-2013, 12:33 AM   #2021
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Thinking of turning down the cs ratio a bit . Which pulleys should i change and whith what tooth ? Around 90% CS would be fine imo
And has anyone tried the R2 drift tires ? They seem really cheap .. Are the diamond iregural cut good and where can i find raiku tires on a good price ?

Last edited by FoiVoS_; 07-06-2013 at 03:20 AM.
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Old 07-06-2013, 01:24 PM   #2022
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Originally Posted by FoiVoS_ View Post
Thinking of turning down the cs ratio a bit . Which pulleys should i change and whith what tooth ? Around 90% CS would be fine imo
And has anyone tried the R2 drift tires ? They seem really cheap .. Are the diamond iregural cut good and where can i find raiku tires on a good price ?

Raikou drift tires can be found on Raikoudrifttires.com. They are very inexpensive and you can get a variety pack to start with 3 full sets of tires for $22USD. They ship out of Brooklyn NYC so it only takes me a day or two to get my orders.

As far as reducing your CS ratio. There is a CS calculator of driftmission.com. I used and 18tooth in pace of the rear 22T and a 14T in place of my rear 13T. That took me to 1.63 CS. I also got some shorter belts to take all of the slop out. I'm using the middle and rear belts from the new Sakura XI which are 3mm and 6mm shorter than the stock belts respectively
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Old 07-08-2013, 11:43 AM   #2023
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My finished body ! Gotta make flip up headlights ...
Intercooler and Exhaust + some stuff from Hobbyking for 4bucks.


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Old 07-08-2013, 12:32 PM   #2024
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My parts order came in for improving my posican setup for my D3.


I also found a new aluminum hub (Enroute JXR) that has increased KPI offsets....will need to find time to install them and test drive.
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:05 PM   #2025
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My parts order came in for improving my posican setup for my D3.


I also found a new aluminum hub (Enroute JXR) that has increased KPI offsets....will need to find time to install them and test drive.
Now that's what I'm talking about, I see lots of goodies in there! Very excited to see where you take this.

It would be awesome to have a working carpet track setup to compare to. I found a nice indoor track about an hour away and would love to have a good starting point for tires, rates and weights, when free time decides to shine upon me again someday
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