eunique

iTrader: (3)

I started on my posican setup for the last couple days... found out it was harder to tune than expected.. removed the front horizontal set up and driving with the rears for now until i can fine tune that... had to rework the rear links since initially i had the horizontal linked to the upper upright ball joint. Then found out that i had loosened front bearing adjusters incorrectly and ended up stripping front belt....so still need to replace that (rear kept spinning out like it's rear wheel drive).

FoiVoS_

I found that the stock wheel adaptors really suck . I found on rcmart that they sale some aluminium wheel adaptors for Sakura ZERO and they are in 4mm or 5mm what does 4-5mm stand for ? Which should i take for the stock wheels ?

DMSewell27

iTrader: (4)

The 4mm and 5mm are how thick the wheel hexes are. If you dont have them already I wouldget a set of 5mm 6mm and 7mm. They give you some width adjustment to get a proper looking stance depending on the body you run. On normal touring cars they can help adjust which end of the car , front or rear, rotates quicker in the turns. Not sure that applies as much to a cs drifter. That being said, STAY AWAY FROM INTEGY'S WHEEL HEXES! They always break before you get them on. The 3racing's aluminum ones are a little better but if you can find Tamiya, Xray or any other name brand I would recommend doing so.

FoiVoS_

I am on a tight budget right now so i need to buy only 1 set. I feel that the stock ones are ok in terms of stance but they broke .. So are these 5,6 or 7 mm ?

danb1974

Take a stock one and measure it's thickness

eunique

iTrader: (3)

I believe stck is 5mm...6mm will give you slightly wider. I have couple different ones. I'm using 4mm narrow adapters right now because I using 10mm offset wheels which rub on the body if I'm using the stock width hexes.
So, if you can, I would also get the other sizes of aluminum adaptors. Or you can get a set of the spacers to save money.

FoiVoS_

Ok i will buy the 6mm ones Now how much droop should i run on front and rear to have smoother transitions ?

DMSewell27

iTrader: (4)

Can you explain your setup, upgrades and the surface you run on? I'm willing to bet there are several things you can do to better your transitions before you get to droop. I don't even have droop screws in my control arms.

FoiVoS_

Well i am currently building my setup .. first time rc owner and drifter. Currently no upgrades but i ordered the 55o degreee mods and the Front 1way. The surface i am running on is a litle bit tricky , i am running on tiles and i think that my front wheels loose contact on the connections of the tiles .. Do i need to reduce my front camber ?

eunique

iTrader: (3)

I went to LHS today to get a little practice and try out the rear posican and see how big of a noticeable difference it could be and to try and tune it...not even 2 minutes in and my D3 starts spinning. First I thought the rear was dragging on the ground since it was lower than the fronts. Then noticed it was only going in right hand circles. After closer inspection...found out that my FOW is busted! :-(
I tried cleaning it at home and thought it was just gunked up...but that didn't help and there was looseness to right outdrives. So that right side is not biting into the outdrive anymore.
...back to the drawing board

Angry_Arowana

Hi guys,Has anyone experienced a front one way problem ?
My left front wheel (which is passenger side for right hand drive cars,driver side for left hand drive cars) would kind of lock up in a full lock every time when it's steered to the right. It's ok when it's steered to the left.
Anyone else experienced something similar ?

eunique

iTrader: (3)

That part of the symptoms I was starting to experience.. See my post above yours.
Found the extreme angle of universals angled backwards due to my extreme caster...so had to readjust. However..I think mine was too late...the outdrives kept sliding out of the FOW and eventually broke one side. I tried cleaning with alcohol and air as per searches I found with HPI FOW that have broken but did not fix my problem. :-(
I replaced my FOW with a spare I had (zero S FOW)...will need to buy another one as a spare (just in case).

DMSewell27

iTrader: (4)

First. Welcome to the hobby!

I have been in and around the hobby, thanks to my Father, for the past 20+ years. I only just got serious about road racing and drift vehicles last September. Again, thanks to (wanting to beat) my Father. Learning the detailed ins and outs of vehicle setup has been by far the most challenging fun I have ever had.

That being said. I am no expert, but I can tell you a few hings I have learned overall and about the Sakura D3 CS chassis.


#1 Use a good radio.
~ I started off using a Hobby King/Flysky GT3B radio. Although not bad to get started it has a framerate of 22ms. Frame rate being the time it takes for input command at the radio to reach the car. I switched to a Spektrum with a 5.5ms frame rate and noticed great improvement in control in all my on and off road vehicles. Futaba. K.O. Proppo and Airtronics/Sanwa also make excellent radios and receivers, but I got my Spektrum very cheap second hand.

#2 Use good servos
~ $10 servos are great for playing with a truck in the back yard. But useless for anything that demands complete control. I am a fan of Savox and use a 1251MG or better in all of my vehicles. Quick radios are useless without quick servos. Again, Futaba, HiTek, JR and others make great servos, but I get Savox at a good price.

Those are the two biggest things I see people skimping on that have the biggest effect. Of course you should use quality brushless motors, Speed controllers and Lipo batteries. The cheaper it is at full retail the cheaper it is made.

As far as a setup for tile goes. I am not sure of a good starting point but be assured there are no magic numbers or universally great setups. It's all about finding a setup you can drive. My D3 is set as follows and runs great at my Locall Hobby shop on CRC HD carpet.

Front:
Ride Height: 5mm
Camber: 3*
Springs: Purple-3racing
Damper oil: 35wt
Wheels: HPI TE37 6mm offset
Tires: Raikou DXPE
Droop: screws removed

Rear:
Ride height: 7mm
Camber: 3*
Springs: Pink-3racing
Damper oil: 100wt
Wheels: HPI TE37 6mm offset
tires: Raikou DXPE
droop: screws removed.

The only upgrades I have really made are using different pulleys to reduce my cs ratio to 1.63 down from the stock 2.14 and the front one way. With just those upgrades and learning to drive my D3, I have been getting some amazing drifts and transitions. I will try and get a video up for you guys over the long weekend coming up.

I hope some of this helps.

Caseymacgyver

Damn, sorry man, work has been getting in the way lately

RE: The rear links, try to get each interface to intersect at 90° around the ride height. Geometry is super important here, not just for consistent spring rate and rebound, but because leverage asymmetry will greatly inhibit rolling effectiveness. Basically, the left and right side have to move roughly the same amount but in opposite directions, which only occurs at 90°. With this setup, as the links move away from 90°, the asymmetry gets worse.

Where are you attached for the rear camber links (Roll center)?

Are you using something with dual radiused sidewalls for the front wheels (Raikou DP50)?

Caseymacgyver

Stick with it, glad you had a spare! If the outdrive shafts are still smooth, then it's the bearing that failed. You should have no problem replacing the individual parts.

I should have mentioned to look out for that. Mine at 46mm are just barely enough and I'll definitely go longer when they're toasted. I noticed the outdrives wobbling out sometimes, so I cut a small piece of silicone tubing, maybe 3/16" long and put it in the outdrive cup. It doesn't put pressure on the dogbone, but when the wheels turn past straight ahead, the dogbone pushes the outdrive back in a bit.

The offset adapter on the knuckle's upper ball, combined with the inner hole on the lower ball, helped me to reduce the amount of reverse swing on the CVD. Basically, it moved the steering pivot inward and closer to the CVD pivot, while keeping the same KPI.

How much caster are you running? Need pics