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Old 06-25-2013, 05:48 AM   #1981
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Guys i feel that the stock springs are way too soft .. Do you know any good place to buy springs for fast shipping in europe ? Which should i get ?
Aslo i noticed that on the rcmart and r2hobbies in the D3 product they say

Wide Angle Driveshafts: The universal driveshafts of the Sakura D3 has been given a redesign to minimize chattering vibrations of the front inside wheel when using a front solid axleand steering is near maximum lock, which is crucial to maintain the front inside wheel will stay on the ground and provide a more consistent drift action.

Does this mean that i got the wide angle driveshafts ? how can i check it ?
I got the full set of all the option D3 springs so that I have them for fine tuning...I think Rcmart might be your best bet.
The chatter/vibrations are due to the limitation of the driveshafts.
No, the stock ones are NOT the wide angle driveshafts. That's an option part (UWA) and you will also need the aluminum steering arms to get full advantage of the wide angle.
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Old 06-25-2013, 07:48 AM   #1982
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I see i just got a litle confused cause it says that they upgraded them . Are you sure eunique cause they might have changed them imo .. Anyways how much front toe out should i have ? Currently i am running on the same as on toe-in on the rear ..
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Old 06-25-2013, 11:12 AM   #1983
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I see i just got a litle confused cause it says that they upgraded them . Are you sure eunique cause they might have changed them imo .. Anyways how much front toe out should i have ? Currently i am running on the same as on toe-in on the rear ..
I'm almost positive that it does NOT come with wide angle because description for D3 states you need optional items to utilize the full capability of wide angle steering.

But to confirm, put your CVDs on a protractor and measure the angles...if its 55, then those are the wide angle...but if its only limited to ~45, then those are not wide angle
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Old 06-25-2013, 12:25 PM   #1984
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Thank you for the insightful info...I will start to tweak it when I get my parts order which I hope will be within the next week. And I will start on the rear first as you suggested and leave the front with just the KPI and see how that goes.

I have not been able to find twin springs trying to search rc926 and other key words from rcmart, amain, tqrcracing, broadtech and even banzaihobby. But will try my other springs (not twin or dual ) for now and see how it goes.
Yeah, overall I'm happy with them, but I have a hard time recommending them as a must have, value-added hop-up.

The only place I was able to find them was RC-Art.net, which is pretty limited WRT English support, so it never turns up on Google, etc... Goods arrived a bit slower than the others, maybe 12 days from click to front door in SoCal. 5 of those days went by before I got an email confirmation that the order was processing. They may be a drop-shipper for RC926, so who knows where delays come from. They take PayPal, and appear to be reputable, just not optimized for the American market.

RC926 Hybrid Drift "Twin" Springs
RC926 Hybrid Drift Spring Seats

They were pricey when I bought them, and appear to be up about 15% since then. The springs are only sold in complete sets for the wire diameter size; 1.2mm, 1.3mm & 1.4mm, with the number of coils reducing in 1/2 turn increments as they get stiffer through the range. The softest in the 1.2mm set are 6.5 turn at ~15mm length. Double-stacking them with the spacer in between is mathematically very close to the D3 white (1.1mm X 31mm @ 9 turns), in terms of spring rate, but side-by-side, they feel noticeably softer.
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Old 06-25-2013, 01:17 PM   #1985
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Hey Eunique, here's a pic of how I'm using those Tamiya adapters to offset from the pivots to get the horizontal shock to clear the front tower.

Are you using the Tamiya 90 pivots, or the GT01 60 ones?



Left = Unmodified, used on the top of MST knuckle.
Right = Half-moons filed down ~0.5mm, just enough to allow a screw to thread into the pivot. Used for upper arm.
Top = Half-moons filed down ~0.5mm to fit and key off the flat side of the pivot, and the extra hole cut off to clear the tower. Used for the horizontal shock mount.
Bottom = A bit of Dremelling needed here and there to clear screw heads.

The spacers under the ball stud for the horizontal shock are for adjusting total spring travel. Geometry is very important here. The leg of the pivot connected to the knuckle has a nearly constant mechanical advantage (Leverage) to the pivot. Conversely, the horizontal shock is mounted relatively close to the other leg of the pivot, whose mechanical advantage will increase as it passes vertical. If the pivots are allowed to rotate too much past vertical, the font suspension will exhibit some degree of anti-progessiveness. The effect is basically the exact opposite of a typical IFS type of setup. I guess that's a long-winded way of suggesting to get the travel of the end points of the horizontal shock to be as close to tangent to 90 vertical as possible, for as much of the range as possible.
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Old 06-25-2013, 03:22 PM   #1986
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Hey Eunique, here's a pic of how I'm using those Tamiya adapters to offset from the pivots to get the horizontal shock to clear the front tower.
Are you using the Tamiya 90 pivots, or the GT01 60 ones?

The spacers under the ball stud for the horizontal shock are for adjusting total spring travel. Geometry is very important here. The leg of the pivot connected to the knuckle has a nearly constant mechanical advantage (Leverage) to the pivot. Conversely, the horizontal shock is mounted relatively close to the other leg of the pivot, whose mechanical advantage will increase as it passes vertical. If the pivots are allowed to rotate too much past vertical, the font suspension will exhibit some degree of anti-progessiveness. The effect is basically the exact opposite of a typical IFS type of setup. I guess that's a long-winded way of suggesting to get the travel of the end points of the horizontal shock to be as close to tangent to 90 vertical as possible, for as much of the range as possible.
I believe mine are the Tamiya 90* ones...but I will double check. I will look at getting it set up and I will try the rears first. And I will use different shocks than the D3 ones...I have a shorter set that I can use that might be the correct length.
Thanks for the info, Caseymacgyver!

And thanks for the links completely forgot to check Rc-art
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Old 06-26-2013, 04:41 AM   #1987
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Has anyone seen the aluminum steering rack available anywhere online?? I can't find one anywhere so far and I want to finish off my KPI mod!!
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Old 06-26-2013, 01:21 PM   #1988
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Has anyone seen the aluminum steering rack available anywhere online?? I can't find one anywhere so far and I want to finish off my KPI mod!!
It seems to be back ordered right now from the manufacturer due to its popularity worldwide.
Just keep checking 3racing website...when they release it, usually Rcmart has it the next day or two.
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Old 06-26-2013, 03:25 PM   #1989
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Hey folks, in case anyone is interested, I've decided to sell my fairly heavily modified D3 drifter. I just don't use it enough to justify keeping it. It has lots of great upgrades, including a KPI mod for more steering. Here's the ad, please PM me if you're interested.

FS: Sakura D3 Drifter

Thanks,
Tommy
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Old 06-27-2013, 11:41 AM   #1990
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I finished it Everything works fine ! There is a chatter at full lock thought ... I am thinking of buying the FOW first .. do you know which parts tend to brake so i may buy some before ? Also i am having a litle bit of understeer which i dont like .. What front toe out and camber should i run ?
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Old 06-27-2013, 04:13 PM   #1991
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I finished it Everything works fine ! There is a chatter at full lock thought ... I am thinking of buying the FOW first .. do you know which parts tend to brake so i may buy some before ? Also i am having a litle bit of understeer which i dont like .. What front toe out and camber should i run ?
Get the FOW, UWA universals and a set of belts just in case, possibly the wide angle steering.

For toe...I would try out 0 or 1 toe out at the most for now...but really...tuning and trying out different springs and shock mounting positions should help you dial it in. Camber...again one little adjustment at a time. Practice and try out because most of the time an adjustment will affect other things
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Old 06-28-2013, 05:40 AM   #1992
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I just saw in my Sakura Box that these items where left alone
I think that they are from the Solid axles but on the Manual it does not use them anywhere ? Look ...
Any ideas ?
Thanks in advance
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Old 06-28-2013, 10:38 AM   #1993
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I just saw in my Sakura Box that these items where left alone
I think that they are from the Solid axles but on the Manual it does not use them
Any ideas ?
Thanks in advance
If the pulleys line up correctly...then you don't need those.
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Old 06-29-2013, 08:17 AM   #1994
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Just some pics of my D3


I am planning to buy some more wheels which do you recomend ? I would like them to be able to drift in a lot of surfaces ( not carpet ).
p.s i live in europe
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Old 06-29-2013, 08:24 AM   #1995
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Raikou drift tires are awesome. For wheels...rc-race-and-drift-japan and banzaihobby both have great selections with numerous offsets.
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