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Old 06-11-2013, 05:24 PM   #1936
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Is anyone running the V2 rear pulley mount? The one with a built in tensioner?
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Old 06-11-2013, 06:04 PM   #1937
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Originally Posted by slyts6 View Post
I agree the help on this thread is fantastic!

I'm currently using a 516 off an XI and I personally feel its too tight. I'll be switching back to a new stock with tensioner and I will possibly change my pulleys to make the CS a little less and take out a bit of slop.
My stock 519mm belt started to show its fibers within the first few hours and shredded in the first two weeks with the stock setup. Even after changing to the 14 tooth pulley, my new 519mm belt was still too loose. As always, its personal preference. Just Sharing what worked for me.

Pics attached are after about 4 hours of use. 3hrs inside on linoleum and 1 hour on very rough asphalt.
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:03 PM   #1938
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Originally Posted by DMSewell27 View Post
My stock 519mm belt started to show its fibers within the first few hours and shredded in the first two weeks with the stock setup. Even after changing to the 14 tooth pulley, my new 519mm belt was still too loose. As always, its personal preference. Just Sharing what worked for me.

Pics attached are after about 4 hours of use. 3hrs inside on linoleum and 1 hour on very rough asphalt.
Yeah I must admit I don't have any wear on my 516... But the only thing is, is that there is a slight twist in the lower side of the belt... Indicating its too tight.

What rear belt are you running?

How is your front holding up?
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Old 06-12-2013, 05:00 AM   #1939
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Default sakura d3 uj problem

do the sakura d3 universal joint easy broke? i scared about it. i had try a model named vmax front motor style 1, it always broke the uj bcos of the steering angle too much. i really like this sakura d3 but i just worry about this problem.
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Old 06-12-2013, 05:23 AM   #1940
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Guys i just oppened the bag No.7 and ...
Oil ... Is it normal or maybe a bearing is destroyed ?
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Old 06-12-2013, 06:32 AM   #1941
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Thanks! I hadn't started out with all of it in mind though (said the junkie). But, I've enjoyed the process and I'm still enjoying the hell out of this chassis. I'm sure you will too no matter what you end up doing to it.



Getting the rear belt tension right on this car can be a bit tricky. The rear post tensioner is difficult to access and you have to basically guess the height of the idler bearing before using the eccentric axle bearing holders to get it just right. The tension on the main belt can also pull the rear belt too tight, especially with the stock chassis, so I always set the main first.

A couple of tips for setting the rear belt tension:
  • Ensure your rear axle bearing holders are installed correctly ('A' on the left, 'B' on the right), with the groove seated all the way around the bulkhead.
  • Loosen the rear bulkhead covers just enough to rotate the rear bearing holders to their lowest tension position (Arrows pointing down).
  • Set your main belt tension by the method of your choosing first, with zero tension on the rear belt.
  • Set the idler bearing height on the rear tension post to just barely allow the rear belt to be rotated on/off the 22T pulley (Like putting on a bicycle chain). You can loosen the tension post mount from the underside of the chassis a couple of turns to allow rotation of the post and better access to the idler adjustment screw, without having to remove the post. Despite the alignment pin on the post, make sure the idler bearing is in plane with the belt when you tighten it back down.
  • Rotate the bearing holders up 2-3 holes, making sure both sides are the same.
  • The rear belt does not need to be taut to prevent skipping; it's not a fan belt. Just enough to keep the belt from hopping off the idler bearing. About 1/8" of free play (Not elastic deflection) seems tolerable for the rear belt.
  • Rotate the bearing holders more/less as needed, then tighten the bulkhead covers. Double-check the rear belt tension before re-installing the little screws to lock the bearing holders.
  • If you ever hear a pop or a sudden surge, or a dull grinding sound, that means a belt skipped. If you stop immediately and find/fix the applicable tension, you may be able to save the belt and/or pullies. Driving until the belt finally shreds out, or over tensioning a badly skipping belt, will very likely round off all of your plastic pulley teeth, thus accelerating the same failure in your next belt.

The front belt tension is a bit easier to set, since it's all locked in the front bulkhead. However, the close spacing and relatively large pulley size differential (13T to 38T) means that fewer teeth are able to be in contact with the belt on the 13T pulley. This puts more importance on the belt's tension, which needs to be tighter than the rear, even at the cost of a potential increase in parasitic loss in the drivetrain. The front belt needs to have nearly zero free play, with as little elastic tension as possible.

It can be misleading to gauge belt tension by the rolling resistance. With the CS and final drive ratios on this car, especially in the rear, turning the rear wheels by hand, with all belts and the motor installed can make it all seem quite stiff indeed. I'll usually test mine by pinching the top stretch of the main belt towards the front with 2 fingers and pulling it toward the rear as fast as I can and letting go. At that point, everything should freewheel for just a moment. If I feel any inconsistencies during the pull, hear and ticks or creeks, or it stops dead when I let go, that tells me that something is not right.

OHH CRAP!!! When i pull my belt it stops dead! there is ABSOLUTELY NO freeplay whatsoever! I mights just take the rear tensioner off and put a bigger pulley so it fits nice and snug, im not sure what this will do to the cs and fd ratios, i havent reaserched to find out the how to calculate them all properly yet, been soo busy with everything else lol, everything spins so freely when nothings hooked up, i think i am looking for too much tension, i have just ordered over 500 bucks for a mt-4 sanwa TX and the rest aluminium parts and few other bits n pieces, STUPID me accidently placed the order twice! if they dont cancel it i will have HEAPS of hop up parts that i will sell quite cheap! i hope they refund me before they send em tho! what a waste of dosh! Thanks for shedding that light i really appreciate it man!


Quote:
Originally Posted by FoiVoS_ View Post
Ace i am in the same stage with you with the build and i noticed that stiff turn also ! I thought that it was the bearings but as it turns out if you lower just a litle the rear belt tension the stiffness will go away ! I am trying to find a balance between the tension and the resistance of the belt system.
As it is my first chassis and build i was quite amazed by the resistance that it provided but as it turns out we are ok
Also what bearings did you buy and from where ?
Yeah racing bearing set, comes with oil, i got the straight metal ones for less resistance, i just got em off ebay but every place that sells hop up parts for the d3 will sell these, rcmart.com have a great selection and most are in stock!

As for the oil my bag came very greasy but there is NO liquid in there at all, maybe they just overdone it a bit i dont think there would be that much oil inside a bearing would there? 15 bucks + shipping for the full set, get em apparently theyl make a bit of a diffrence, not sure tho, hope so lol..
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Old 06-12-2013, 07:12 AM   #1942
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just took the rear tensioner off, there is still no play! ive got the shocktowers on, but no supsension parts, i can just move the belt a TINY bit without having to hold the whole chassis to spin it, there is NO WAY no matter what i do i would be able to get the thing to spin a rev or 2 without physically doing it no matter how hard i pull it it stops dead! The belt comes VERY close to the front large pulley but it doesnt really touch, ive got a oneway on the way so i will be changing it therefore im not too fussed about that, the bearing shafts between the bulkheads run nice and smooth without the belts on, so do the main bearing holders, hmmm not to sure whats goin on here, maybe when the new bearings come itl run a bit more smoothly, oh thats another thing, it doesnt feel smooth, its quite jerky, is yours guys ones very smooth??
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Old 06-12-2013, 07:25 AM   #1943
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Originally Posted by Ace212 View Post
just took the rear tensioner off, there is still no play! ive got the shocktowers on, but no supsension parts, i can just move the belt a TINY bit without having to hold the whole chassis to spin it, there is NO WAY no matter what i do i would be able to get the thing to spin a rev or 2 without physically doing it no matter how hard i pull it it stops dead! The belt comes VERY close to the front large pulley but it doesnt really touch, ive got a oneway on the way so i will be changing it therefore im not too fussed about that, the bearing shafts between the bulkheads run nice and smooth without the belts on, so do the main bearing holders, hmmm not to sure whats goin on here, maybe when the new bearings come itl run a bit more smoothly, oh thats another thing, it doesnt feel smooth, its quite jerky, is yours guys ones very smooth??
Ace i think that you are just fine it's normal that there is no play The free play will be added when you add the wheels ( havent tried it yet xD ) The wheels are the one that have rotational inertia Also for the belt coming very closely you can go to page 127-128 to see our discussion. Today though i found that i had tightened the screws of the solid axle spool to much and the toched the belt so make sure you wont do the same mistake ! Also the belt doesnt feel very smooth to me to. Idk since i started the building i really enjoyed it but it turns out it's quite tricky ..
Could anyone else confirm that my bag will be ok cause i dont want to open it to show 3racing their mistake if it's faulty ..
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Old 06-12-2013, 07:57 AM   #1944
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Aww k i get ya! I adjusted the main bearing housing to 2 notches from the bottom ( direct opposite from stock position) for the front small belt and it is ALOT smoother but there is still no freeplay but i totally understand what you are saying about the wheels, im gonna put the rear belt tension post back on but just make it tigh enough so there is no slack, i think seeing EVERYONE talking about loose belts has screwed our minds up a bit and i am over doing it!

I also loosened those screws a bit so they werent sticking out, ill go back and have a better read over that discussion, i already read it but cant really remember, im alot happier with the looser small belts, and it has made the belts run ALOT smoother and easier to rotate!

Yes! definatly not something to quickly wack together, time MUST be taken and great care to carefully assemble all parts! Some things i have taken apart and put them back together just to see if i can get it aligned nicer or wateva! Not that there was any problems i just want it to run the best it can, and last the longest it can, i have a quite fast esc/motor combo coming and not even sure if the chassis will handle it well lol! ill have to just take it easy and dot be to trigger happy!
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Old 06-12-2013, 08:54 AM   #1945
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Originally Posted by tiger rs10 View Post
do the sakura d3 universal joint easy broke? i scared about it. i had try a model named vmax front motor style 1, it always broke the uj bcos of the steering angle too much. i really like this sakura d3 but i just worry about this problem.
No, mine are still going strong.
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:18 AM   #1946
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ahrrrggg! these ball end caps!! some screw in fine and some i cant get on at all!! much rather be working on the real car lol! Anyone have any tips? it just wont catch! been trying for HOURS i even threaded it with one but it wont catch with the one i need to put on!

AHH, some are reversed some arent! How wierd! Sweet as now tho lol, thnx neways!
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:20 AM   #1947
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Originally Posted by FoiVoS_ View Post
Guys i just oppened the bag No.7 ...
Oil ... Is it normal or maybe a bearing is destroyed ?
Yes, that is not out of the ordinary...don't worry. If worried about the bearings, clean in cleaner and the spin them with one drop of oil on each bearing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tiger rs10 View Post
do the sakura d3 universal joint easy broke? i scared about it. i had try a model named vmax front motor style 1, it always broke the uj bcos of the steering angle too much. i really like this sakura d3 but i just worry about this problem.
Not that they easily break...but a lot have experienced CVDS pins coming loose with set screws backing out which can cause binding and other problems if keep trying to force it.
Best is to take apart the CVDs before you even run them...grind a small flat spot in the middle of the pin (this will create a better biting point for the set screw to grab onto) and then use a small amount of red thread lock on the set screw so that it will not back out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace212 View Post
just took the rear tensioner off, there is still no play! ive got the shocktowers on, but no supsension parts, i can just move the belt a TINY bit without having to hold the whole chassis to spin it, there is NO WAY no matter what i do i would be able to get the thing to spin a rev or 2 without physically doing it no matter how hard i pull it it stops dead! The belt comes VERY close to the front large pulley but it doesnt really touch, ive got a oneway on the way so i will be changing it therefore im not too fussed about that, the bearing shafts between the bulkheads run nice and smooth without the belts on, so do the main bearing holders, hmmm not to sure whats goin on here, maybe when the new bearings come itl run a bit more smoothly, oh thats another thing, it doesnt feel smooth, its quite jerky, is yours guys ones very smooth??
You will be fine...he did not mean that the belt will keep spinning a full revolution or even two..it might keep going a teeth or two or even more..but not keep spinning.
Ace, if you have extra rear bearing holder with tensioner (V2), wide angle CVDS (331) I would be interested

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace212 View Post
Aww k i get ya! I adjusted the main bearing housing to 2 notches from the bottom ( direct opposite from stock position) for the front small belt and it is ALOT smoother but there is still no freeplay but i totally understand what you are saying about the wheels, im gonna put the rear belt tension post back on but just make it tigh enough so there is no slack, i think seeing EVERYONE talking about loose belts has screwed our minds up a bit and i am over doing it!

I also loosened those screws a bit so they werent sticking out, ill go back and have a better read over that discussion, i already read it but cant really remember, im alot happier with the looser small belts, and it has made the belts run ALOT smoother and easier to rotate!

Yes! definatly not something to quickly wack together, time MUST be taken and great care to carefully assemble all parts! Some things i have taken apart and put them back together just to see if i can get it aligned nicer or wateva! Not that there was any problems i just want it to run the best it can, and last the longest it can, i have a quite fast esc/motor combo coming and not even sure if the chassis will handle it well lol! ill have to just take it easy and dot be to trigger happy!
If you loosened the screws on the axle..it will be good idea to use blue thread lock on screws if they are going into aluminum (believe me it will back out) or a small dab of clear nail polish if screwing into plastic.

For the motor..you don't need a lot of power..I started high...4.5 (too much power) 8.5T (good but doesn't need as much power for CS drifting...now I'm running 10.5T Speed Passion (punch dialed down to 3, timing 0*) and turned down throttle end point on my remote down to 70-75% with great results on a tight carpet drift track. You might want to run it full if on bigger tracks or asphalt...but keep practicing until you find a happy spot
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:57 AM   #1948
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Sweet thanks man! i got a Leopard LBP3650-3900KV-3.5D 86amp on the way with 100a HK esc.. im not sure if that 3.5d means 3.5turns.. Whats a good idea for cs ratio? id prefer if the wheels were pumping out a 50/50 ratio or maybe even 70/30 (rear most) because ive also ordered a set of grip tyres for a bit of all rounding.. im not too familiar on how to get the cs & fd ratios where you want em, have to do some reading up..

If they dont cancel the order ill post the parts list and let you know straight away!
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Old 06-12-2013, 06:16 PM   #1949
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Originally Posted by slyts6 View Post
Yeah I must admit I don't have any wear on my 516... But the only thing is, is that there is a slight twist in the lower side of the belt... Indicating its too tight.

What rear belt are you running?

How is your front holding up?

The rear belt is a 3x177mm from a Tamiya 415. The front 3x138mm is the stock belt and is holding up just fine. No real signs of wear. You can tell it has a few hours on it in rough outdoor conditions, but no fiber showing or excessive play.
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Old 06-13-2013, 03:14 AM   #1950
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Guys where would you reccomend me to buy the 55o mods and the FOW ? The best prices i found where in rcmart ... Anything else ?
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