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Old 06-03-2013, 12:05 AM   #1891
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Hey Caseymacgyver,
Thanks for all the info!
about your upper arms, is it Yokomo type-c in there? kind of hard to tell from the pic..
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Old 06-03-2013, 02:10 PM   #1892
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Originally Posted by Exita View Post
Hey Caseymacgyver,
Thanks for all the info!
about your upper arms, is it Yokomo type-c in there? kind of hard to tell from the pic..
No worries, I'm just glad there are still people out there that read long posts. I'm just glad they don't charge by the word.

I'm not running the Yokomo Arms at present. I'm currently running a Posican setup, which requires a lot of suspension travel at low resistance, and a whole host of other non-standard modifications. My car is fully hopped up, with a custom front and rear end. I love how the car handles now and it's much easier to drive fast on a variety of surfaces (Haven't tried carpet yet), but it took a lot of custom work and tweaking to get it there, so I don't generally recommend that others head down this path without a good understanding of that commitment. For more info, skim the last 4-5 pages of this thread for my posts. I'm more than happy to help anyone who decides to go this route, but be forewarned, all the little pivots, adapters and linkages do add up $$$



For the upper arms, I'm using Tamiya GT01 Rocker Arms, which I bought from Banzai Hobby Here. Note that the holes are M2.5 threaded, which I tapped to M3. They are also serving double-duty as the roll spring links (Anti-anti-roll bar setup). I'm using these in place of the pivot posts provided, but any 5mm post would do. More info to follow...

Last edited by Caseymacgyver; 06-03-2013 at 05:02 PM.
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Old 06-03-2013, 04:03 PM   #1893
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I'm loving this chassis more and more. I replaced the rear 22t pulley with an 18t and it makes the car much easier to do long drifts. It still has enough CS with the 10.5 to run on the tightest of tracks. The best of both worlds!!! I'm still having some slop issues in the steering even with the aluminum steering rack. Seems like there is a lot of play on the side where the servo linkage attaches. It needs some shims in between the bearing and the bottom of the rack.
Awesome, glad to hear it. It really is a good car, with the potential to be great. Did the stock rear tensioner have enough range to take up the slack at 18T without any tweaking? Just wanting to confirm for the benefit of others.

I know what you mean with the D3 steering. Although the aluminum rack does increase steering throw and reduce flex, it does nothing to help with slop. In fact, I would argue that it may even make it worse due to 3Racing's poor fitment of the bearing seats. Overall, I think their upgrades are good quality and the accuracy in general has been excellent. However, I have found that their bearing seats are consistently oversized, whereas the plastic ones were flexy, but nice and snug. The rear hubs have been the worst, with the steering rack crossbar being a close 2nd. I ultimately replaced the crossbar with ball links and a turnbuckle.

In any event, I thought I would share some of the improvements that I have used and/or devised which have helped to reduce steering slop to an imperceptible amount on my D3:
  1. Only use a ball removal tool to separate your ball links (See pic).
  2. If bearings do not fit tightly in their seat, place a section of a plastic parts baggy across the seat opening and then pop the bearing in place. The tight spots will stretch the plastic thinner and/or cut itself for you. Use an X-acto knife to cut away any remaining exposed plastic on both sides. I found Teflon tape to be too messy and did not hold up very well here. I'm definitely not a fan of gluing them in their seats either (See pic: One end after popping in, the other post trim).
  3. Cut 4-5mm square or hex pieces of plastic parts baggy and place in the bottom of EVERY ball cup. Doesn't have to be precise, just big enough to stay in the cup, but not so big that it creases. You want a single layer thickness that really only touches the upper half of the ball. It basically shims the ball down a tiny bit so it sits tighter against the snap ring. They last surprisingly long and typically stay in the cup when separated. I seldom replace them unless they fall out or get contaminated with dirt/grime. I'll usually cut a strip and make a few at a time, because they are very easy to drop while putting in place. Likewise here, I found Teflon tape to be too messy and did not hold up very well. (See pic).
  4. Get an assortment of 5mm shims (0.1/0.2/0.3mm thick) to use for the steering pivots and wheel axles. Test tightness with all links detached.
  5. Get an assortment of 3mm shims (0.1/0.2/0.3mm thick) to use on the king-pin, inner and outer hinge pins. Test tightness with all links detached.
  6. Shimming a bearing too tight to mitigate other sources of slop will likely make it worse. A properly shimmed bearing should show extremely little to no signs of increased roll resistance. If it does, it's too tight, which will knead those little balls out of round in a hurry and just increase the bearing's inherent slop. Make sure you know where the slop is coming from before trying to shim it out.


There's been a couple Q's about my steering posts, so here's a bit more info on them. I developed this approach initially because I didn't like the E-clip attachment method on the Tamiya posts, which made it damn hard to shim them properly. They were always either too tight or too loose. Now, they are "Shimmed" snug with a Nylock nut, tightened onto a set screw which is Locktited into the top of the extended post. I'm using THESE in place of the stock steering posts, but there are probably other 5mm posts out there that would do just fine or better. The nut bears on a 5mm axle spacer, over a 0.3X5mm washer that is in contact with the inner bearing race. The thickness of the axle spacer doesn't particularly matter, as long as it extends beyond the top of the post. The ones I had handy are about 6-7mm (0.25" I think), which are definitely longer than needed. The nut makes it easier to set and adjust the tightness without having to trial-and-error with the assorted shims thicknesses. The washer allows the bearing to spin freely without the spacer contacting the outer race under normal operation. At the same time, the spacer effectively helps to limit out-of-plane travel (Wiggle/slop) without additional stress to the inner race, which would tend to deform the balls and accelerate wear on the pivot bearings. Different washer thicknesses can be used (0.1mm, 0.2mm) to change the wiggle-to-drag ratio. I'm using this identical arrangement for my front and rear suspension pivots.


Last edited by Caseymacgyver; 06-03-2013 at 05:00 PM.
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Old 06-03-2013, 05:08 PM   #1894
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I had to shim the rear belt tensioner up about 5mm. I used an Axial standoff and a longer 3mm screw to make up the difference.
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Old 06-03-2013, 10:37 PM   #1895
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caseymacgyver View Post
No worries, I'm just glad there are still people out there that read long posts. I'm just glad they don't charge by the word.

I'm not running the Yokomo Arms at present. I'm currently running a Posican setup, which requires a lot of suspension travel at low resistance, and a whole host of other non-standard modifications. My car is fully hopped up, with a custom front and rear end. I love how the car handles now and it's much easier to drive fast on a variety of surfaces (Haven't tried carpet yet), but it took a lot of custom work and tweaking to get it there, so I don't generally recommend that others head down this path without a good understanding of that commitment. For more info, skim the last 4-5 pages of this thread for my posts. I'm more than happy to help anyone who decides to go this route, but be forewarned, all the little pivots, adapters and linkages do add up $$$



For the upper arms, I'm using Tamiya GT01 Rocker Arms, which I bought from Banzai Hobby Here. Note that the holes are M2.5 threaded, which I tapped to M3. They are also serving double-duty as the roll spring links (Anti-anti-roll bar setup). I'm using these in place of the pivot posts provided, but any 5mm post would do. More info to follow...
Thanks!
front looks great!
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Old 06-04-2013, 09:59 AM   #1896
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Nice ride... how much of that is still "out of the box"?
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Old 06-04-2013, 12:34 PM   #1897
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Hardly any.
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Old 06-05-2013, 10:46 PM   #1898
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Originally Posted by pettyeagles View Post
I had to shim the rear belt tensioner up about 5mm. I used an Axial standoff and a longer 3mm screw to make up the difference.
I was worried that might be the case, thank you for confirming and providing a nice simple fix. It's sure to help someone out there to order all the right parts for a mod all at the same time. It sucks waiting for a "Solution" part to come in the mail, only to realize you need to order & wait for something else to be able to use it. Glad you got it sorted and are back on track to a more enjoyable and rewarding CS transition

Any updates on the steering slop issue?
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Old 06-07-2013, 09:05 AM   #1899
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Hello guys my Sakura D3 arrived and i started building it ! It's my first build and i am new to the hobby. I have a problem and i can't connect the pin to the shaft and the pulley What should i do ? it is like the hole it is too small to fit
Here is the pic (http//img542.imageshack.us/img542/3873/dsc0036di(.jpg)
Delete the ( ) to see it
Thanks in advance
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Old 06-07-2013, 09:19 AM   #1900
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Originally Posted by FoiVoS_ View Post
Hello guys my Sakura D3 arrived and i started building it ! It's my first build and i am new to the hobby. I have a problem and i can't connect the pin to the shaft and the pulley What should i do ? it is like the hole it is too small to fit
Here is the pic (http//img542.imageshack.us/img542/3873/dsc0036di(.jpg)
Delete the ( ) to see it
Thanks in advance
Oh it fits, just not very easily. It's a spring pin so it actually will compress to a slightly smaller diameter. I use a set of needle nose pliers to push it in, just be careful not to damage the side of the pulley.
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Old 06-07-2013, 12:00 PM   #1901
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And 3racing has a couple vids on youtube to help you with the build. Just search it on youtube.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FoiVoS_ View Post
Hello guys my Sakura D3 arrived and i started building it ! It's my first build and i am new to the hobby. I have a problem and i can't connect the pin to the shaft and the pulley What should i do ? it is like the hole it is too small to fit
Here is the pic (http//img542.imageshack.us/img542/3873/dsc0036di(.jpg)
Delete the ( ) to see it
Thanks in advance
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Old 06-07-2013, 12:36 PM   #1902
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Has anyone replaced these pins with a grub screw and ground a flat spot on the shafts?
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Old 06-08-2013, 02:55 AM   #1903
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Originally Posted by slyts6 View Post
Has anyone replaced these pins with a grub screw and ground a flat spot on the shafts?
Yes..that is what I did exactly using the titanium shafts and aluminum pulleys...grinding a flat spot gives a good footing for the set screw...and I used a little thread lock on the set screw to make sure it doesnt back out.

You should do the same grinding aflat spot on the CVDs as they are notorious for coming apart
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Old 06-08-2013, 05:24 AM   #1904
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Guys new problem here i just installed all of my belts and pulleys and i noticed something wierd.As you can see in the pics the center belt tends to touch the front diffrential and the bottom. I installed the belt tensioner (Sakura Zero) and i the problem exists again but now it only touches the diff. I think that i have assembled everything correct following the manual.
Pictures: FRONT
(http)://imageshack.us/a/img96/9736/dsc0037ni(.jpg)
Should i be able to move it like 1mm right or left ? (http)://imageshack.us/a/img836/1299/dsc0042gb(.jpg)
REAR ( Havent yet inserted the rear pins cause i noticed the problem) (http)://img823.imageshack.us/img823/7571/dsc0043jt(.jpg)
Without Belt tensioer
(http)://imageshack.us/a/img407/1666/dsc0039wq(.jpg)
(http)://imageshack.us/a/img341/5168/dsc0038dmc(.jpg
With Belt Tensioner
(http)://imageshack.us/a/img534/1286/dsc0040yx(.jpg)
(http)://imageshack.us/a/img607/7303/dsc0041ffl(.jpg)
Sorry cant post pictures as they are cause the forum doesnt allow me Please delete ( ) and post the urls to your browser to see the photos
Please help guys !
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Old 06-08-2013, 06:56 AM   #1905
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http://imageshack.us/a/img96/9736/dsc0037ni.jpg
Should i be able to move it like 1mm right or left ? http://imageshack.us/a/img836/1299/dsc0042gb.jpg
REAR Havent yet inserted the rear pins cause i noticed the problem
http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/7571/dsc0043jt.jpg
Without Belt tensioer
http://imageshack.us/a/img407/1666/dsc0039wq.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img341/5168/dsc0038dmc.jpg
With Belt Tensioner
http://imageshack.us/a/img534/1286/dsc004

You should be fine...mine center belt touches the bottom front suspension mount and it has not been a problem.
The belt will glide along the pulleys left and right slightly as you drive the D3. Just make sure the tension is not too tight....not too loose that it skips teeth. But should run freely.
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