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Old 05-22-2013, 02:00 PM   #1846
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OK about chatter and my D3 the standard units are horrible I went to double cardins and the reduce the chatter to unnoticeable levels but also restrict the angle to about 45* when I decided to KPI this chassis I also had to then deal with the chatter that CVD's produce what I did to start with was buy Square R31 48mm 50* CVD's they worked but were slightly to short at the wheel axle but the dogbones are a great thickness for an UWA CVD so as I used MST knuckles I decided to buy the Wheel axles to fit them and graft them onto the Square 48mm dogbones with this setup I get around 60* with an incredibly low amount of chatter barely noticeable at full lock I would go as far as to say these CVD's have more angle left in them that can't be tapped even with the Alloy steering installed I should also mention the MST knuckles I use are the Front Uprights and the linkage holes are close to the hubs which is why I can get more than 55* out of the alloy steering system
Yeah, that combo with the MST axles, MST uprights and Square swing shafts is excellent and a great find on your part. Seems to be holding up rather well too.

Did you also replace the steering rack crossbar with a turnbuckle to widen it and get more throw on the inside wheel?
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Old 05-23-2013, 02:25 AM   #1847
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Running around 20* of caster and 12* of KPI there, but it's tough to measure accurately.

I've taken it as high as about 25* caster and 18* KPI and it drove amazingly smooth at higher drift speeds, but understeered too much at low speed for my taste. Perhaps more suited for large tracks where you need to carry a lot of speed. Tire wear on asphalt was another drawback for me, as it would lay the inside wheel over so far that it quickly wore through to the wheel lip, with a ton of meat still left in the middle.
Thanks for the info..
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Old 05-23-2013, 01:14 PM   #1848
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I'm wanting to reduce the CS ratio. Do I need to replace the 13t rear pulley with a larger one? I tried an 18t but the center belt is too short.
Yes, increasing the rear center pulley size will reduce the CS ratio, however there are practical limits to how much you can change pulley sizes depending on the available belt sizes and the belt tensioner's range.

Not sure if you have a center belt tensioner installed, but this will open up your ratio possibilities in general. As you discovered, changing the rear center pulley from 13T to 18T will require a larger belt, which was perhaps glossed over in the latter pages of this thread. Each tooth will add/subtract 3.5mm to the required belt length. I know for certain that a 14T fits within the D3's 'slack' in the center belt. 15T might be possible, but I can't say with certainty as I haven't tried it.

However, if you don't want the trouble of finding a suitable replacement belt, all is not lost. Simply use that 18T pulley to replace the rear 22T pulley. This will give you 1.75 CS. I've had a 19T there and the stock rear tensioner was able to accommodate it with a bit of range left. For 18T, you can always put spacers under the tensioner, or swap the A/B bearing mounts if needed to get it a little tighter. If you want to go a bit lower on the CS, combining the above with changing the center rear 13T to a 14T will net you 1.63 CS and you can use all stock belts.

Good luck!
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Old 05-23-2013, 06:00 PM   #1849
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Has anyone sucessfully mounted this body on their D3?

http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-toyota-...?cPath=438_875

I am considering purchasing this body, but I have seen some comments on other sites saying the body does sit low. I do notice that the D3 has slightly higher shock mounts.
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Old 05-24-2013, 12:22 AM   #1850
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Has anyone sucessfully mounted this body on their D3?

http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-toyota-...?cPath=438_875

I am considering purchasing this body, but I have seen some comments on other sites saying the body does sit low. I do notice that the D3 has slightly higher shock mounts.
Picked up the body before the kit even showed up in fact. Now you've got me all concerned it won't fit...

Last edited by forty2; 03-07-2015 at 08:53 AM.
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:42 AM   #1851
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I've just picked up my D3.

It's running an xerun 60a sensored esc and 10.5 redline motor. I have it set with standard CS ratio. has anyone tried a center belt from a sakura XI? It's a 516 instead of a 519... The guys at my LHS said it should get rid of a bit of the slack...


Also is there a ball diff that will fit in the front of this chassis?
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Old 05-25-2013, 09:51 AM   #1852
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Just an update:

The 516 belt does fit. It fits so snug that there is no slop what so ever. I have removed the centre Zero tensioner altogether. If anything the belt is a tad tight for my liking so I'm hoping it will slacken off a little.
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Old 05-25-2013, 12:23 PM   #1853
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Default Body Roll Call for D3

Official Body roll call for the D3.

Post what body you are running on your D3 and the following info:

A-link to manufacturers site for the body or where ya bought it so specs/pics can be seen (part number works also if listing a site is deemed as advertising)

B-what mods were done to make the body fit, if any were needed.

Hopefully this will help owners find a new body that fits with or without mods.

I know I am in the market for a new body and I already purchased one body that doesn't fit because of the high front shock towers.

I think it would also be cool to see what others are running.

For the record, this body will not fit without some major mods to the front hood of the body to make it fit on the chassis:

Tamiya (#51429) Raybrig HSV-010 Body Parts 190mm.

If I can find some lexan pieces that look like or can be made to look like an air intake, I may try to cut the hood and make this body fit. It is a rather stunning looking body, but you need a low profile chassis for the body to fit right.

Last edited by Galeleo; 05-25-2013 at 04:38 PM.
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Old 05-25-2013, 02:08 PM   #1854
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I got pretty sick yesterday and didn't get around to finishing my build but I did eyeball it with the shock towers and it looks like it'll be okay. I'm out of town now but when I get back on Tuesday I'll get is finished and post a pic of where the body sits.
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Old 05-26-2013, 03:10 PM   #1855
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Time to bump this thread with pics!

Got to work on a few cars today, including my 17.5 Blinky touring car and my VTA car. Played around with the D3 as well. Here are some current pics it.





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Old 05-26-2013, 08:13 PM   #1856
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That looks awesome! What brand shell is it?
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Old 05-26-2013, 10:02 PM   #1857
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That looks awesome! What brand shell is it?
Thanks! It's the HPI 2004 WRC Subaru WRX STi Impreza.

http://www.hpieurope.com/piw.php?lang=en&partNo=17205
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Old 05-27-2013, 03:54 AM   #1858
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Here's my attempt at a Yokomo body.

http://www.teamyokomo.com/product/dr...093/index.html

Fitting was quite easy, front mount holes lined up perfectly...the rears are about 13mm short of existing marks. Just needed to trim 10mm off the front of the bumper and take the edges off the rear diffuser on the D3 as I did not want to use the one supplied with the S14.





This was probably one of the hardest shells I've ever done. There are so many decals it took hours just to lay them! Dont know who thought of carbon sheet decals....but they suck to put on around a louvered bonnet.




Here is a pic of the 516 belt fitted also..

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Old 05-27-2013, 09:17 AM   #1859
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My Protoform Samuel Hubinette inspired Dodge Charger.



[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]
At a recent drift comp hosted by Midwest Slidewayz Drift Club
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:32 PM   #1860
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I cant seem to adjust the center belt.... Seems there is no adjustment and belt is way to long..... Does any one eles have this problem...????? In the center of the belt i added another belt to put some tension but it needs more.....
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