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Old 05-06-2013, 10:42 AM   #1786
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Do any of you have a part list for this mod? and couple links perhaps?
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Old 05-06-2013, 10:51 AM   #1787
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Originally Posted by Tristian93 View Post
do you see what i mean they are the same
The ones I have are definitely different. You received the wrong ones.
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Old 05-06-2013, 10:52 AM   #1788
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Originally Posted by latinflyer View Post
Do any of you have a part list for this mod? and couple links perhaps?
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Which mod? If you're referring to the KPI mod, everything about it is custom. There are a few posts with pictures as to how they did it.
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Old 05-07-2013, 09:20 AM   #1789
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Do any of you have a part list for this mod? and couple links perhaps?
Latinflyer
I recommend you do the KPI mod.
it's not hard to do and not very expensive + you'll gain variable camber when you steer and great lock angles

you will need:

1. Yokomo Type-C Upper Suspension Arm - from Banzai hobby (link by Pickled)
2. MST I PARTS-wheel hubs 210008 New - from Ebay (link by Pickled)
3. MST CVA wheel axle (2 PCS) 310006 New - from Ebay (link by Pickled)
4. Universal Shaft 46mm:OTA R31 from Broadtech.hk (search : R31-15-46) (link by Eunique)
5. 2 20mm set screws ( I got a set from rcmart for 2.90$)

sorry I can't post links yet but you can do a search with the names I wrote

so it all comes down to 35$ + shipping (if you buy the MST Plastic wheel hubs like I did, the alloy ones are 50$)
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Old 05-07-2013, 11:15 PM   #1790
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Question for the D3 CS experts. I just got my chassis and ran it today box stock except for shimming the center belt pulley mount. For some reason when drifting to the right the rear end wants to come around faster than when going to the left. Any ideas???
i had same issues previously, and 2 times..

1st time it happens, turn out to be bad servo that cant go the full 60 degrees on 1 side.

2nd time it happen to me, it seems that one of my front shock had leaked oil thru a bad oring seal and slightly damages piston rod.. after changing out both the front shocks oring and piston rod, and re-blees them accordingly to become a 'dead' shock, is ok now..

i started out long time back with a TT01 with oil shocks, and nvr bleed them properly... and end up, i realise that the rebound of the shocks along with the spring rate cause both side to be uneven, wich explains y my drift better to one side to another..

anyway, i've just redone my D3 settings yesterday, and is now having more hell of a fun with it than before. wat i did was to use 900wt oil for front shocks, paired with the hardest spring from Tamiya (http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-53636-u...?cPath=389_443) and 600wt oil in the rear paired with a softer spring, and i realise that i can control the drift better on most surfaces...

previously, my front wld bottom out pretty fast due to the stock settings and my rear wld kick out so fast that my servo wont have time to respond and counter it back..
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Old 05-08-2013, 12:22 AM   #1791
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Originally Posted by viktozzz View Post
i had same issues previously, and 2 times..

1st time it happens, turn out to be bad servo that cant go the full 60 degrees on 1 side.

2nd time it happen to me, it seems that one of my front shock had leaked oil thru a bad oring seal and slightly damages piston rod.. after changing out both the front shocks oring and piston rod, and re-blees them accordingly to become a 'dead' shock, is ok now..

i started out long time back with a TT01 with oil shocks, and nvr bleed them properly... and end up, i realise that the rebound of the shocks along with the spring rate cause both side to be uneven, wich explains y my drift better to one side to another..

anyway, i've just redone my D3 settings yesterday, and is now having more hell of a fun with it than before. wat i did was to use 900wt oil for front shocks, paired with the hardest spring from Tamiya (http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-53636-u...?cPath=389_443) and 600wt oil in the rear paired with a softer spring, and i realise that i can control the drift better on most surfaces...

previously, my front wld bottom out pretty fast due to the stock settings and my rear wld kick out so fast that my servo wont have time to respond and counter it back..
good. ..glad you are having more fun now and controlling it better.
Just a suggestion, could you try swapping front to rear shocks? From what I have learned, with CS drifting and front motor chassis... Most preferred soft fronts and stiff rear shock setups. And if you can please post your results...I would be interested in the outcome since you are using different weight oils and Springs.
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Old 05-08-2013, 12:56 AM   #1792
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good. ..glad you are having more fun now and controlling it better.
Just a suggestion, could you try swapping front to rear shocks? From what I have learned, with CS drifting and front motor chassis... Most preferred soft fronts and stiff rear shock setups. And if you can please post your results...I would be interested in the outcome since you are using different weight oils and Springs.
sure... i try to get some shots of the car and videos of it...

i was using soft fronts at first, however, the front part wld bottom out pretty fast and scrap the lower chassis... maybe i was building it wrong.. thus, tried all the different springs, till i decided to give it a shot with a setup similar to my Tamiya XV01, wich works pretty good for both rally runs and touring.
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Old 05-09-2013, 02:17 AM   #1793
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This is amazing I want to do this

http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?..._Lnr1w&index=3
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Old 05-09-2013, 06:17 AM   #1794
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broken link...not working
???
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:34 AM   #1795
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broken link...not working
???
That gay but try this one

http://youtu.be/aydeGuWjsDA
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:39 AM   #1796
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How can he drive straight for so long??? (I'm really asking)
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:28 AM   #1797
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I have my D3CS and had a go drifting it last night. The surface was concrete, the car setup was box stock, and all it wanted to do was donut, very little control. Any setup ideas?

No upgrades (yet)
Alturn cheapy servo
Nosram cheapy brushed ESC
Etronix cheapy 19t motor
Vapextech cheapy 3300mah LiPo
KO Vantage 3 radio with Spektrum module and receiver

Here it is with my Reely Audi RS6 S-Line body, the tyres are the kit sparking ones and wheels are alloy Rota Grid replicas with 7mm of offset, and I used 3mm of shims to make it 200mm; though I won't run it like that as there is literally hardly any thread on the wheelnuts to hold them on . Out of the box though, it has waaaay too much front end grip so it needs some setup work to stop it just doing donuts.



Where did you find this Audi body? What brand is it? It looks just like my 1:1, so I need to get one too! :-D
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Old 05-12-2013, 11:52 AM   #1798
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Originally Posted by Exita View Post
How can he drive straight for so long??? (I'm really asking)
A FOW makes this a lot easier to do.
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Old 05-12-2013, 01:53 PM   #1799
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I recently bought a D3 and I am almost done building the kit. I have noticed something that can be of concern and I am wondering if anyone else had this issue during their build.

I purchased a FOW for the D3 and the center belt rubs against the screw retainer that is on the inside of the pulley gear (metal piece the pulley gear is screwed to). I have put in a belt tensioner to try and raise the belt to avoid rubbing, but it is still quite close and I am afraid once I start running, the belt will rub or catch and start snapping belts.

So did I assemble the front end wrong or has anyone else noticed this?
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Old 05-12-2013, 02:24 PM   #1800
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It does appear close, but it's a non-issue in my car.
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