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best price for GP 3300s?

best price for GP 3300s?

Old 06-10-2005, 10:08 AM
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........

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Old 06-10-2005, 10:17 AM
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Another blind lipo/brushless guy....

Listen, again.....battery matchers will evolve and find ways to increase performance in the lipo batteries....just like they did with nicad and nimh (the same crap being said right about lipo was also said about nimh, I can even rememeber people saying they would not be able to be used for RC because they were too dangerous to charge and they could not handle the amp loads....too funny)...

As for motor tuners......the same thing will evolve. They will learn little tips and tricks to make brushless motors faster than the next guys. Sure they won't sell brushes and springs, but again......we are all little fiddlers....getting that extra ounce is what we strive for. People WILL figure it out....mark my words.

If you think Lipo and Brushless is going to level the playing field in those areas.....you are sadly mistaken. Both great technologies, but they are not some magical equalizer.....

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Old 06-10-2005, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by dodgeguy
For all those that are testing cells on there own equiptment. How do you know that the volt meter reading is correct? Get a DVOM one with about 10MegaOHMs of impeadence. Usually those meters are more accurat. When you are discharging your cells connect the DVOM to your pack and see if it is the same to the charger readout. I will say for most it will not be. Your leads also have some play in it.


I have a few Maxamps cell and they are very impressive. I have a Peak SP pack with great numbers. I paid 75 for them. I have some of the GP3300 that were advertised as 1.18. I paid 30 for them. They cycle better than my Peak high dollar pack. And I can feel it on the track.

When LiPo packs come to market safer we will see the battery war go away. And all of the matchers with it. That will be better for the consumer.

Check the meter readings!!
It doesnt matter how the volt meter reads on my t 30.... I know what numbers to look for.. I havwe cycled hundreds of packs on it, i know what is good and bad...

you say to Get a DVOM one with about 10MegaOHMs of impeadence.. if this help max amp cells look better, just think how well a good matched pack would look on this meter... and again i am not dissing max amps.. there is a place for every battery seller in RC...But for real racing and competition... i doubt you will se anyone go out and buy brand new batteries for a national event without lables..

also .. those of you impresssed with the performance on the first few runs... Nothing in the world runs like a new battery pack...that is what you are feeling.. the cells are just fresh... after some runs your batteries wont work like they did as new...One thing a matched pack does is last longer as well.. when all the cells work closer together, it it not as harmfull as a pack not matched.. Unmatched will have cells working harder then others... causing more strain on some cells and not on the others...

do this... after you battery peaks, take a heat probe, or lazer probe... measure the temperature of each cell... then do it with a matched pack.. you will see what i mean..
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Old 06-10-2005, 11:07 AM
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@ Burbs: I know what the differences are between matched and unmatched packs since I'm a racer for 14 years now at a pretty competitive national level. Unmatched packs are relatively cheap, while matched packs have a longer lifetime and will work together better.

About that lifetime: I know matching will have some effect, but are any numbers known of increasing the battery lifetime with matching. Does anyone here have a clue how much it will differ?

What my point is:
It's too easy to say one cell is better than the other. It's just a matter of what you're about to do with it and on what level of competition you would like to race.

But that's just what I think...

Gr,
Mike
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Old 06-10-2005, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by burbs

you say to Get a DVOM one with about 10MegaOHMs of impeadence.. if this help max amp cells look better, just think how well a good matched pack would look on this meter... and again i am not dissing max amps.. there is a place for every battery seller in RC...But for real racing and competition... i do

..
10 Meg is an industry standerd in meters. You can check your meter to see if it has that much by using another set to Ohms. Then set your meter to volts. Fluke makes a great meter. I use these all the time.
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Old 06-10-2005, 12:36 PM
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[QUOTE=

About that lifetime: I know matching will have some effect, but are any numbers known of increasing the battery lifetime with matching. Does anyone here have a clue how much it will differ?



Gr,
Mike[/QUOTE]

internal resistance, is the number that helps battery life.. the lower the number the better the cell. the lower the number stays, the longer the pack will remain good... as packs begin to lose performance, the IR number goes up....you can only see this number with matching..
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Old 06-10-2005, 02:25 PM
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Well I have ordered 2 x maxamps packs.
I currently run trinity matched 1.169 packs which frankly dont seem to run any better then my gp3300 stick packs.

My trinity GP3300 cost $130.00 NZD
my gp3300 stick pack $59.00 NZD from HK
Even if maxamps cells only av 1.174 they got to be an improvement at $60.00NZD .
As for not discharging evenly, we only run a 5min race (300 sec)
so a discharge time of 390 doesnt seem a problem.
I tray my batts between races to equalise anyways.

This has me intrigued so I have also ordered 2x 1.179V worlds packs from racedayrc.com.

I race 1/10 tc on ashphalt so i'm interested to see if there is a difference I can actually feel on the track
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Old 06-10-2005, 02:42 PM
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loopedeloop,

you could have gone to Hobby Direct and got some great cells and whats more you would have been supporting a local hobby shop that gives alot back to the New Zealand RC Scene. The price would have only been a little more and you would have got top of the line Reedy cells.
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Old 06-10-2005, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by fatbear
loopedeloop,

you could have gone to Hobby Direct and got some great cells and whats more you would have been supporting a local hobby shop that gives alot back to the New Zealand RC Scene. The price would have only been a little more and you would have got top of the line Reedy cells.

Hey fatbear, FYI, I have brought 3 x new cars, cars 5 x esc, 1 x 3300 Reedy Pack not to mention heaps of parts from hobby direct in the last two years.
I call that good support.
I also buy a lot from Speedi Models in AKLD.
I too support my local shops.Even tho AKLD isnt really local for me!!
I do however reserve the right to shop where I like and try out various stuff from offshore which s not available or overpriced over here.This is the case with GP3300 Batts.
You cant compareNZ$ with the deals available overseas.

My whole family races and with 6 x cars to support most of my spare money gets put into this hobby so the money saved from buying batts overseas is used elsewhere.

By the way, I have never liked the reedy pack $120nzd and wont buy another of that brand.
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Old 06-10-2005, 04:05 PM
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I just go to my LHS and pick out the manufactuer who gets us the best cells for the best price
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Old 06-10-2005, 08:42 PM
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Here's the only place to get the rip you want at a good price ...!!!!
www.fusionbatteries.com ...
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Old 06-15-2005, 09:28 AM
  #57  
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LiPo's and LiPo safety is here. If you use Durtrax's Ice Machine or another dedicated charger for LiPo's they are safe to use, good power comparable to 3300mah. They are 5.9 oz lighter than 3300mah cells. Run time is in excess of 15 minutes in a Stock Pan Car.

I keep wondering what all the names and crap is about in the signature line. Are they sponsors, names of equipment drivers use, or something to impress the other boys on this forum. I have noted that you all have your favorite equipment and stand by them. Which is good. However, to be so closed minded about anything different is very bad. And fellows this is exactly what you have posted.

Let us not forget where we come from. Electric cars are an entry level R/C car. Most kids get them for the birthdays, and Christmas. They come out to the race track and want to be like the go-fasters. Until they find out about the cost of going fast. How many kids nowadays (still) have $100.00 to spend on a set of batteries? Or parents have the extra monies to spend for batteries for their kids hobby. The high cost of batteries is scaring them off. They realize they can't compete and quit. Not good for the hobby is it!

You have all done your testing of batteries, each with different test equipment and chargers. Recommending high dollars Multi-meters and other stuff. Man that chases new people off! ..... "I have got to spend how much".

Testing batteries, whether it be on the track, with a T30 or what-ever your testing method is, is worthless to anyone else but you! A base line, sure, but there are just too many variables to be the bonified expert. Try racing Dyno's, you can't. There is not much on QC toward standardizations and the results are not consistant from one dyno to the other. Batteries are the same way...

So, for any of you to cast dispersions on one product or another without the first hand knowledge of how it performs is just as stupid spending $100.00 on a battery vice spending $30.00 for the same product.

It chases people away, which is not good for the hobby.

Yes, I am a MaxAmps advocate, it was like pulling teeth from a chicken to get me to switch from my high dollar batteries. But when I came up with a testing system (both a static test and on track) that worked for me, I could not see wasting the money for a battery that performs as well as a ... (most everything that is listed in this forum).

Last edited by Hick; 06-15-2005 at 06:59 PM.
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Old 06-15-2005, 05:30 PM
  #58  
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You gotta agree wit this guy (hick)

It seems plain ridiculous to me to spend NZD$130.00 for a Matched pack for my kids when a maxamps pack x 2 only cost $112.00 shipped to NZ.

One of the fastest guys n my club uses unmatched GP3300 stick packs and is very hard to beat.

Sometimes megabuck packs are simply not necessary, and the majority of club racers wouldnt even notice the diff between the two.(my opinion)

(hunching down waiting to get flamed )
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Old 06-15-2005, 05:52 PM
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[QUOTE=Hick


Yes I am a MaxAmps advocate, it was like pulling teeth from a chicken to get me to switch from my high dollar batteries. But when I came up with a testing system (both a static test and on track) that worked for me I could not see wasting the money for a battery that performs as well at a (everything that is listed in this forum).[/QUOTE]

Hick you hit the nail on the head here!!
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Old 06-15-2005, 06:41 PM
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Want the real skinny on MaxAmp Batteries. Check out what is said by their team drivers and customers at MAXAMPS.COM. The forum there is filled with very useful information and some light hearted jibber-jabber. Very little BS there, nor is there any bad mouthing about the "others".

If you really want to know about any kind of battery check out mpoweruk.com. You will be enlightened from everything about make-up, chemistry and testing.

Best thing to remember, this is supposed to be fun!

Last edited by Hick; 06-15-2005 at 07:00 PM.
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