evochick

iTrader: (5)

same way

Switch on the transmitter, then press and hold SET button while switching on the speed control.

nerdling

iTrader: (8)

thanks guys

cplus

iTrader: (11)

here guys

OnRoad Mod - V4.7


Stock - V5.4

cplus

iTrader: (11)

here's also the relevant setup sheets - one from Arno (petitrc), one I modified to suit.

nova2015

iTrader: (5)

Anyone else have issues getting the Spec 2 USB bridge to work on a Windows 8 system? Mine simply wouldn't recognise that the ESC was connected. Tried a fresh install of the software but to no avail. In the end I went to my old XP based desktop and it worked first time. But it would be better if I could use my laptop..

B16A2

iTrader: (3)

Yeah I have seen this as well, Win8 did not load the drivers correctly for the bridge in my situation. I didn't try very hard to resolve the problem as I was in a rush when it happened.

I use either WinXP or Win7 machine to perform upgrades

Shock Tower

Yes, mine did the same. I found a fix on youtube. Search for it there. I finally got mine working on Win8

tobyzhang

iTrader: (15)

did anyone notice that v4.7 BD3 braking is much stronger than BD3 braking on v5.4 software ? I noticed way stronger braking with v4.7 on R1 17.5 motor. Anyone had the same experience? I feel this should not have been the case. I'm pretty certain the radio calibration is correct on both occasions.

cplus

iTrader: (11)

Yes that's true.

You need brakes in mod/boosted classes - not so much in 13.5/17.5/21.5 classes.

Zhangesh

iTrader: (23)

Is it worth using v4.7 in blinky racing then?

cplus

iTrader: (11)

Dunno. Never tried. I expect not seeing as LRP probably know what they are doing.

When you are comparing the breaking, are the setting on the ESC the same - initial brake and drag brake?

Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

A lot of people are using v4.7 for blinky because of the better brakes. On asphalt it's very noticeable but you have to watch out for excess heat if you have the wrong drag brake setting.

XCRAZYBENX

Recently sold my buddy a practically brand new LRP Flow ESC. I been helping him put together his B5M. Well today was his big day and when we wired his stuff up we found a broken swithc wire goin to the esc. So i spoke to another buddy and we checked it out.

So we got it apart. i bridged the circuit board joints where the switch wires go. and there was no power.

we then gently pulled th circuit bard out of the casing and soldered the switch in. Stil no power. I dont get it nothing smells burnt or anything wierd just no power??

suggestions??

evochick

iTrader: (5)

The switch circuit needs to be open to turn on aparently. I know very backwards.

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

i think it is a smart design for the ESC to stay "on" if the switch falls off/gets disconnected.