Yokomo MR4TC-BD
09-04-2008, 04:00 AM
#8386
If not then I'll wager it probably IS the plates, they may not look worn but are worth replacing every time you change the balls, they are a significant wear point.
The other thing about the Yokomo diff outputs is that they are not always a consistent moulding - you can get a high spot in the diff because of that.
I don't know if Yokomo themselves do alloy diff outdrives, but on the Scythe (which also uses Yokomo diff parts as standard), we now have TOP's own outputs (which are used with a 2mm screw and thrust instead), available in both alloy and composite, which build a more consistent diff.
09-04-2008, 04:31 AM
#8387
Get yourself 2000 grit sandpaper
put it on a glas plate
put one diffplate on the long diff outdrive and sand it till it's flat and the groove is gone and the plate looks a little shiny
then put the other diffplate on the outdrive and sand it aswell
also sand the thrust bearing plates to remove any groove.
remove the diffballs from the pulley and use a toothbrush to clean the pulley, especially the holes the balls run in
clean the diffballs and thrustbearing balls with break cleaner
use AE white grease (CAREFUL only the one with the BLACK LETTERS!)
to fix the diffplates to the outdrives (clean diffplates with break cleaner on a paper towel afterwards)
put the diff balls back into the pulley
put one drop of grease from every side on every ball
use ae black grease to build the thrust bearing .. not too much ...
insert the thrust bearing/spring/screw unit into the long outdrive and hold it in place with your screw driver
then put the pulley ontop of the long outdrive
now screw it together with the short outdrive and you should have a silky smooth feeling differential
when tightening an alloy diff:
if you tighten it you will feel a spot where it gets tighter very quickly and the screwdriver gets harder to rotate ... untighten the diffscrew from there 1/2 a turn for modified and 3/4 for stock racing
yokomo does have alloy outdrives
partnumber is bd-500a
use muchmore joint grease to reduce wear (tamiya aw is good too)
I use yok carbid diffballs for important races as it locks better .. but usually ceramic balls do and don't need to be replaced as long as the diff feels smooth .. it can happen that the balls break if you don't sand the diffplates ... and you will feel that the diff catches every bit of a turn .. that is a flat spot on a diffball then
Hope I could help you .. if it's not easy enough to understand let me know and I'll do a step-by-step photo coverage *g*
put it on a glas plate
put one diffplate on the long diff outdrive and sand it till it's flat and the groove is gone and the plate looks a little shiny
then put the other diffplate on the outdrive and sand it aswell
also sand the thrust bearing plates to remove any groove.
remove the diffballs from the pulley and use a toothbrush to clean the pulley, especially the holes the balls run in
clean the diffballs and thrustbearing balls with break cleaner
use AE white grease (CAREFUL only the one with the BLACK LETTERS!)
to fix the diffplates to the outdrives (clean diffplates with break cleaner on a paper towel afterwards)
put the diff balls back into the pulley
put one drop of grease from every side on every ball
use ae black grease to build the thrust bearing .. not too much ...
insert the thrust bearing/spring/screw unit into the long outdrive and hold it in place with your screw driver
then put the pulley ontop of the long outdrive
now screw it together with the short outdrive and you should have a silky smooth feeling differential
when tightening an alloy diff:
if you tighten it you will feel a spot where it gets tighter very quickly and the screwdriver gets harder to rotate ... untighten the diffscrew from there 1/2 a turn for modified and 3/4 for stock racing
yokomo does have alloy outdrives
partnumber is bd-500a
use muchmore joint grease to reduce wear (tamiya aw is good too)
I use yok carbid diffballs for important races as it locks better .. but usually ceramic balls do and don't need to be replaced as long as the diff feels smooth .. it can happen that the balls break if you don't sand the diffplates ... and you will feel that the diff catches every bit of a turn .. that is a flat spot on a diffball then
Hope I could help you .. if it's not easy enough to understand let me know and I'll do a step-by-step photo coverage *g*
09-04-2008, 05:25 AM
#8388
Hi Martin and Sos
Thanks for the replys, I have just returned to the yokomo fold after some time with xray cars I will feed back later how all this goes
Mark
Thanks for the replys, I have just returned to the yokomo fold after some time with xray cars I will feed back later how all this goes
Mark
09-04-2008, 06:29 AM
#8389
Martin you should not polish diff rings, below is taken from the irs web site, explaining why the rings should not be polished.
1. Why do you sand your diff rings instead of polishing them?
R/C differentials are a friction style differential. The diff balls (we suggest our grade 25 diff balls P/N IRS204) need to grip the diff ring to work efficiently. If you polish the diff rings, the diff will slip and therefore be less efficient. Roughen the diff rings with sandpaper to create more grip for the diff balls. By using this method you should not have to over tighten the diff nut to stop the spur gear from slipping, this is when most diffs are damaged.
I suggest you try this experiment if you don't believe me. Build a diff polishing the diff rings and feel how it works. Then build a diff using the method described in question #2, You'll feel a definite difference. As an added bonus, when the rings start to wear, resand and reuse.. You'll get more races out of the same rings and they get better each time you sand them! This trick will work on all ball differentials.
1. Why do you sand your diff rings instead of polishing them?
R/C differentials are a friction style differential. The diff balls (we suggest our grade 25 diff balls P/N IRS204) need to grip the diff ring to work efficiently. If you polish the diff rings, the diff will slip and therefore be less efficient. Roughen the diff rings with sandpaper to create more grip for the diff balls. By using this method you should not have to over tighten the diff nut to stop the spur gear from slipping, this is when most diffs are damaged.
I suggest you try this experiment if you don't believe me. Build a diff polishing the diff rings and feel how it works. Then build a diff using the method described in question #2, You'll feel a definite difference. As an added bonus, when the rings start to wear, resand and reuse.. You'll get more races out of the same rings and they get better each time you sand them! This trick will work on all ball differentials.
09-04-2008, 06:39 AM
#8390
I bought an SD SSG I think in 2005. I didnt realize that it was already out of date. I loved the car anyway. Im running a serpent right now. I have thought of getting a BD but I have kind of been waiting for a new version. How are you guys doing with this car? Are you pretty competitive against the Cyclones and X-rays, Serpents?
I wish Yok would produce the new BD in SSG as well as black CF.
I wish Yok would produce the new BD in SSG as well as black CF.
09-04-2008, 07:52 AM
#8391
Asphalt setup
Anyone have any advise on a great setup for asphalt?
Thanks
Thanks
09-04-2008, 11:09 AM
#8394
Well I'd suggest just try it yourself before doubting my comment ...
Chris Grainger, Masami and me do it that way so I guess it is good enough
Chris Grainger, Masami and me do it that way so I guess it is good enough
09-04-2008, 11:12 AM
#8395
Yea J,
you going? I'll split the cost with ya to help keep things less costly...
-Shookie <><
I hope they have a World GT class even for just for fun class...like say 13.5 or 17.5 and 4 cell...run any two door body....easy rules all for fun to help out a new class...I would love to run it...LOL
\
J hit me up after the 9th....you got the #...I am chillin in Morro Bay today and Pismo tomorrow, than SB on Monday and tuesday....
L8
you going? I'll split the cost with ya to help keep things less costly...
-Shookie <><
I hope they have a World GT class even for just for fun class...like say 13.5 or 17.5 and 4 cell...run any two door body....easy rules all for fun to help out a new class...I would love to run it...LOL
\
J hit me up after the 9th....you got the #...I am chillin in Morro Bay today and Pismo tomorrow, than SB on Monday and tuesday....
L8
09-04-2008, 01:46 PM
#8396
Get yourself 2000 grit sandpaper
put it on a glas plate
put one diffplate on the long diff outdrive and sand it till it's flat and the groove is gone and the plate looks a little shiny
then put the other diffplate on the outdrive and sand it aswell
also sand the thrust bearing plates to remove any groove.
remove the diffballs from the pulley and use a toothbrush to clean the pulley, especially the holes the balls run in
clean the diffballs and thrustbearing balls with break cleaner
use AE white grease (CAREFUL only the one with the BLACK LETTERS!)
to fix the diffplates to the outdrives (clean diffplates with break cleaner on a paper towel afterwards)
put the diff balls back into the pulley
put one drop of grease from every side on every ball
use ae black grease to build the thrust bearing .. not too much ...
insert the thrust bearing/spring/screw unit into the long outdrive and hold it in place with your screw driver
then put the pulley ontop of the long outdrive
now screw it together with the short outdrive and you should have a silky smooth feeling differential
when tightening an alloy diff:
if you tighten it you will feel a spot where it gets tighter very quickly and the screwdriver gets harder to rotate ... untighten the diffscrew from there 1/2 a turn for modified and 3/4 for stock racing
yokomo does have alloy outdrives
partnumber is bd-500a
use muchmore joint grease to reduce wear (tamiya aw is good too)
I use yok carbid diffballs for important races as it locks better .. but usually ceramic balls do and don't need to be replaced as long as the diff feels smooth .. it can happen that the balls break if you don't sand the diffplates ... and you will feel that the diff catches every bit of a turn .. that is a flat spot on a diffball then
Hope I could help you .. if it's not easy enough to understand let me know and I'll do a step-by-step photo coverage *g*
put it on a glas plate
put one diffplate on the long diff outdrive and sand it till it's flat and the groove is gone and the plate looks a little shiny
then put the other diffplate on the outdrive and sand it aswell
also sand the thrust bearing plates to remove any groove.
remove the diffballs from the pulley and use a toothbrush to clean the pulley, especially the holes the balls run in
clean the diffballs and thrustbearing balls with break cleaner
use AE white grease (CAREFUL only the one with the BLACK LETTERS!)
to fix the diffplates to the outdrives (clean diffplates with break cleaner on a paper towel afterwards)
put the diff balls back into the pulley
put one drop of grease from every side on every ball
use ae black grease to build the thrust bearing .. not too much ...
insert the thrust bearing/spring/screw unit into the long outdrive and hold it in place with your screw driver
then put the pulley ontop of the long outdrive
now screw it together with the short outdrive and you should have a silky smooth feeling differential
when tightening an alloy diff:
if you tighten it you will feel a spot where it gets tighter very quickly and the screwdriver gets harder to rotate ... untighten the diffscrew from there 1/2 a turn for modified and 3/4 for stock racing
yokomo does have alloy outdrives
partnumber is bd-500a
use muchmore joint grease to reduce wear (tamiya aw is good too)
I use yok carbid diffballs for important races as it locks better .. but usually ceramic balls do and don't need to be replaced as long as the diff feels smooth .. it can happen that the balls break if you don't sand the diffplates ... and you will feel that the diff catches every bit of a turn .. that is a flat spot on a diffball then
Hope I could help you .. if it's not easy enough to understand let me know and I'll do a step-by-step photo coverage *g*
Thanks for taking the time to make the post
Mark
09-04-2008, 02:32 PM
#8397
glad i could help
09-04-2008, 03:30 PM
#8398
Track condition
The Track conditions is med to low bite due to dust. 
09-04-2008, 06:33 PM
#8400
I bought an SD SSG I think in 2005. I didnt realize that it was already out of date. I loved the car anyway. Im running a serpent right now. I have thought of getting a BD but I have kind of been waiting for a new version. How are you guys doing with this car? Are you pretty competitive against the Cyclones and X-rays, Serpents?
I wish Yok would produce the new BD in SSG as well as black CF.
I wish Yok would produce the new BD in SSG as well as black CF.