Yokomo MR4TC-BD
#7966
fingers crossed
#7967
Tech Adept
Lets wait & see for the new Yok coming soon..
Do you guys remember any spy photos for the pre lauching of BD 3 yrs ago? Answer is, it never.. The BD just came out from nowhere. So expect the same this time...
Go to TITC web site for a look... Expect Masami race for the first time in Thailand for prepartion for the IFMAR next few weeks with a brand new BD or may be at least an updated BD.. This is the only IFMAR title Masami never win before, so expect a super fast & furious YOK this time..
Do you guys remember any spy photos for the pre lauching of BD 3 yrs ago? Answer is, it never.. The BD just came out from nowhere. So expect the same this time...
Go to TITC web site for a look... Expect Masami race for the first time in Thailand for prepartion for the IFMAR next few weeks with a brand new BD or may be at least an updated BD.. This is the only IFMAR title Masami never win before, so expect a super fast & furious YOK this time..
#7968
is this really serious?
#7970
Tech Champion
iTrader: (7)
i really hope it makes its debut in TITC .... hopefully they will allow us to take snap shots of it. Grainger will be at the TITC as well .... he's could well be busy with testing as well.
lets just hope that this is really gonna happen! im keeping my fingers crossed thats for sure!
#7971
i really hope it makes its debut in TITC
#7976
see you there! i'll be the guy with an mi3 from the Philippines.
TOP, will have support from the factory guys
416, such a nice car and performing above expectations so far.
BD, what can I say, just keeps going faster every time I call on it.
P.S, I am also Australian
#7977
carpet chassis
i have a carpet 3mm chassis for a bd if interested.
#7978
hi i decided to pay for 2nd hand bd cause ive always like yokomos and i have a few questions.
Ive been reading the thread and in some posts some people suggested using the old mr4tc chubs and steering blocks but then everyone said to use the hb ones but does anyone no if these will work as i have a old mr4tc custom in storage somewhere. I no that u only should use these will the cgm steering if you want more steering but im just wondering if they will fit as i could maybe use them as spares.
Also is the car 64dp? and how do i tell which wishbones i have as ive had a look and there is no markings so i dont no which ones so could someone tell me how to identify which is which.
Oh and then theres the usual which spares should i get? i will be racing indoors on carpet if that helps.
thanks
mike
Ive been reading the thread and in some posts some people suggested using the old mr4tc chubs and steering blocks but then everyone said to use the hb ones but does anyone no if these will work as i have a old mr4tc custom in storage somewhere. I no that u only should use these will the cgm steering if you want more steering but im just wondering if they will fit as i could maybe use them as spares.
Also is the car 64dp? and how do i tell which wishbones i have as ive had a look and there is no markings so i dont no which ones so could someone tell me how to identify which is which.
Oh and then theres the usual which spares should i get? i will be racing indoors on carpet if that helps.
thanks
mike
#7979
I've never used the different hubs but i'm sure you can use the mr4 ones without cgm steering. you can fit 48 or 64dp to it, it's all universal.
wishbones. there are std and worlds front wishbones. stds have three holes to fit shock to and worlds have two and are shorter in length.
Spares are the usual, hubs/carriers, hinge pins and wishbones but thats about it. if you run anything but stock, get some spare driveshafts and diff bits if you intend on hitting things!
wishbones. there are std and worlds front wishbones. stds have three holes to fit shock to and worlds have two and are shorter in length.
Spares are the usual, hubs/carriers, hinge pins and wishbones but thats about it. if you run anything but stock, get some spare driveshafts and diff bits if you intend on hitting things!
#7980
Drive shaft problems.
I have made some posts on the SD forum about this problem, but apparently the Yokomo team drivers look at this BD forum more often.
The car is an MR$-TC WCSP.
It has the blue aluminium driveshafts that do not last long (part number SD-010FW and RW). They require a spacer/collar to be fitted inside the hub carrier/steering block before the inboard bearing goes in.
I bought a set of Low Friction Universal Drive Shafts (SE-010 FC, the pre assembled drift ones). They fit okay (with the spacer/collar removed). The problem is that the wheel stud threads are not long enough and the nylon in the wheel nuts does not engage the thread, so the wheel nuts could shake loose.
I could use the hardened steel drive shafts (FH and RH) but they are pricey and difficult to source. I could also use the titamium drive shafts from the UK but they are even more pricey! Anyone got any suggestions?
I have made some posts on the SD forum about this problem, but apparently the Yokomo team drivers look at this BD forum more often.
The car is an MR$-TC WCSP.
It has the blue aluminium driveshafts that do not last long (part number SD-010FW and RW). They require a spacer/collar to be fitted inside the hub carrier/steering block before the inboard bearing goes in.
I bought a set of Low Friction Universal Drive Shafts (SE-010 FC, the pre assembled drift ones). They fit okay (with the spacer/collar removed). The problem is that the wheel stud threads are not long enough and the nylon in the wheel nuts does not engage the thread, so the wheel nuts could shake loose.
I could use the hardened steel drive shafts (FH and RH) but they are pricey and difficult to source. I could also use the titamium drive shafts from the UK but they are even more pricey! Anyone got any suggestions?