Yokomo MR4TC-BD
05-14-2007, 08:40 AM
#7186
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by olhipster1
Just a note from past Yok BD experience.
anyone looking to release or make a 3mm or thicker chassis...
milled out pockets are a must for the BD...
the car does not like to sit high on a straight 3mm lower deck, the roll centers just don't get right.
I've used two different 3mm chassis and the car just didn't feel right at all, but once I put the car back down to the intended Yok (hard chassis) chassis it got all the grip back.
a 3mm or 3.5mm top deck would be great but the belt path needs to have a pocket also, belt will rub and where down very quickly without it. I always wanted to see someone release a 3.5 top deck with the pockets milled on the underside to keep the center of gravity as low as possible and assist the flex with a key-in effect.
just a few thoughts....anyone listening
anyone looking to release or make a 3mm or thicker chassis...
milled out pockets are a must for the BD...
the car does not like to sit high on a straight 3mm lower deck, the roll centers just don't get right.
I've used two different 3mm chassis and the car just didn't feel right at all, but once I put the car back down to the intended Yok (hard chassis) chassis it got all the grip back.
a 3mm or 3.5mm top deck would be great but the belt path needs to have a pocket also, belt will rub and where down very quickly without it. I always wanted to see someone release a 3.5 top deck with the pockets milled on the underside to keep the center of gravity as low as possible and assist the flex with a key-in effect.
just a few thoughts....anyone listening
If you want a milled out chassis then you also need to consider that with this the price does jump up. Milling the top deck is not a great idea and wouldnt give a noticeable performance advantage over a normally cut plate.
I do have two questions for people though im looking at using 3.5mm for the chassis, and the other which may seem random what type of screws do people run in the main chassis???
olhipster could you emphasise on the belt rub with a pic pls.
I'll post some pics when im done with the chassis.
05-14-2007, 08:53 AM
#7187
Tech Regular
This is what i have so far, going to start with the milling slots now. Do people feel the need for different shock towers, like taller holes more holes like the masami tower?
05-14-2007, 11:23 AM
#7188
Originally Posted by highwayman
i recently got the alum yoke spool, ran 4packs modified and raced 23T with it... so far so good... although i did notice that the steel universals had a bit of wobble... too bad i cant use my TC4 bones with the yoke spool.
anybody tried widening the rear track width of the BDM to match the front? 190mm? it seems that i gained a bit of stability and steering when i made the rear wider... just wanted to see if anybody else had the same results...
anybody tried widening the rear track width of the BDM to match the front? 190mm? it seems that i gained a bit of stability and steering when i made the rear wider... just wanted to see if anybody else had the same results...
05-14-2007, 02:40 PM
#7189
Tech Elite
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belt rub
hi Dan Hugh,
I'm actually in between cars at this time...
let go of my Yok BDM....but thinking of getting another one.
the top deck....
another over 2.75mm on the top deck will create very tight spacing between the belt and the top deck..in the area around the spur gears.
when the belt flexes (fore and back) the belt will hit/rub the carbon, roughly past the belt tensioner area.
if you mill out roughly a 2mm wide slot to follow the belt line (top deck only) that would eliminate the rubbing effect. I found the rubbing wears down the belt very quickly, especially the softer team bomber belt.
sorry, don't have pics. at this time....I'll if I can dig some up.
Mostly used 3x8 screws when running a 3mm deck or 3x10 in some areas. I thought 3x6 was just too small to capture a good seat on the threads.
PM sent your way.
I'm actually in between cars at this time...
let go of my Yok BDM....but thinking of getting another one.
the top deck....
another over 2.75mm on the top deck will create very tight spacing between the belt and the top deck..in the area around the spur gears.
when the belt flexes (fore and back) the belt will hit/rub the carbon, roughly past the belt tensioner area.
if you mill out roughly a 2mm wide slot to follow the belt line (top deck only) that would eliminate the rubbing effect. I found the rubbing wears down the belt very quickly, especially the softer team bomber belt.
sorry, don't have pics. at this time....I'll if I can dig some up.
Mostly used 3x8 screws when running a 3mm deck or 3x10 in some areas. I thought 3x6 was just too small to capture a good seat on the threads.
PM sent your way.
05-14-2007, 02:44 PM
#7190
Tech Elite
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Join Date: Dec 2004
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steering plate
if you decide to make little add-on parts
the steering plate on the BD is a bit on weak side..and needs a lot more ackerman especially high traction runs.
just a suggestion of course.
the steering plate on the BD is a bit on weak side..and needs a lot more ackerman especially high traction runs.
just a suggestion of course.
05-14-2007, 02:52 PM
#7191
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by olhipster1
hi Dan Hugh,
I'm actually in between cars at this time...
let go of my Yok BDM....but thinking of getting another one.
the top deck....
another over 2.75mm on the top deck will create very tight spacing between the belt and the top deck..in the area around the spur gears.
when the belt flexes (fore and back) the belt will hit/rub the carbon, roughly past the belt tensioner area.
if you mill out roughly a 2mm wide slot to follow the belt line (top deck only) that would eliminate the rubbing effect. I found the rubbing wears down the belt very quickly, especially the softer team bomber belt.
sorry, don't have pics. at this time....I'll if I can dig some up.
Mostly used 3x8 screws when running a 3mm deck or 3x10 in some areas. I thought 3x6 was just too small to capture a good seat on the threads.
PM sent your way.
I'm actually in between cars at this time...
let go of my Yok BDM....but thinking of getting another one.
the top deck....
another over 2.75mm on the top deck will create very tight spacing between the belt and the top deck..in the area around the spur gears.
when the belt flexes (fore and back) the belt will hit/rub the carbon, roughly past the belt tensioner area.
if you mill out roughly a 2mm wide slot to follow the belt line (top deck only) that would eliminate the rubbing effect. I found the rubbing wears down the belt very quickly, especially the softer team bomber belt.
sorry, don't have pics. at this time....I'll if I can dig some up.
Mostly used 3x8 screws when running a 3mm deck or 3x10 in some areas. I thought 3x6 was just too small to capture a good seat on the threads.
PM sent your way.
Originally Posted by olhipster1
if you decide to make little add-on parts
the steering plate on the BD is a bit on weak side..and needs a lot more ackerman especially high traction runs.
just a suggestion of course.
the steering plate on the BD is a bit on weak side..and needs a lot more ackerman especially high traction runs.
just a suggestion of course.
05-14-2007, 03:00 PM
#7192
I do have two questions for people though im looking at using 3.5mm for the chassis, and the other which may seem random what type of screws do people run in the main chassis???
olhipster could you emphasise on the belt rub with a pic pls.
I'll post some pics when im done with the chassis.[/QUOTE]
Hey can you move the batt up forward a little?
Also in the reas you can possibly add the wing pieces on the rear graphite cross brace behing spur gear, It just needs to be thick.
olhipster could you emphasise on the belt rub with a pic pls.
I'll post some pics when im done with the chassis.[/QUOTE]
Hey can you move the batt up forward a little?
Also in the reas you can possibly add the wing pieces on the rear graphite cross brace behing spur gear, It just needs to be thick.
05-14-2007, 03:02 PM
#7193
Tech Elite
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pic
top deck pic
**note - red arrows are suggestions...only.....black arrow = slot area line for belt
1. belt area...i had to file down a slot to keep the belt from rubbing into the top deck.
2. to reduce flex the right side over batteries shouldn't have the full cutout. the car will not flex evenly with this existing cutout as pictured...don't get me wrong this setup was plenty stiff...but I always want the car to flex evenly.
in the last pic you can see how close the belt was to the top deck, under load the belt would hit the deck
I did see a cut version of your ackerman plate and it was really trick..wish i had that piece when i was running my car....it looked like it gave uber steering effect.
**note - red arrows are suggestions...only.....black arrow = slot area line for belt
1. belt area...i had to file down a slot to keep the belt from rubbing into the top deck.
2. to reduce flex the right side over batteries shouldn't have the full cutout. the car will not flex evenly with this existing cutout as pictured...don't get me wrong this setup was plenty stiff...but I always want the car to flex evenly.
in the last pic you can see how close the belt was to the top deck, under load the belt would hit the deck
I did see a cut version of your ackerman plate and it was really trick..wish i had that piece when i was running my car....it looked like it gave uber steering effect.
05-14-2007, 03:05 PM
#7194
Man Orlando! Why did you get rid of that car?..I got rid of My cyclone for outdoOrs and am back with a new BD. The cyclone was just to much to handle outdoors!
05-14-2007, 03:05 PM
#7195
Originally Posted by Dan Hughes
I made a set of steering plates with the same dimensions to the ones the Yok team ran at the worlds with the hpi suspension, they seemed to work very well. Any suggestions are great i'll see what i can do with them.
05-14-2007, 03:10 PM
#7196
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by fpart
If you have any more let me know!. Also, I was able to put the XRAY T2 steering knuckle on my BD and it corrects most of the steering ackerman issues since it has two holes and the rear one is back a bit.
05-14-2007, 03:11 PM
#7197
Im intersted in one!
05-14-2007, 03:14 PM
#7198
Tech Elite
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fpart
fpart...
i actually regret getting rid of my BD....it was pretty good...just couldn't get that extra out of it for carpet...it was more by driving than anything...but it was missing the right type of lower deck for carpet.
i might actually get another BDM...since i've been wheeling that car for so long.
i actually regret getting rid of my BD....it was pretty good...just couldn't get that extra out of it for carpet...it was more by driving than anything...but it was missing the right type of lower deck for carpet.
i might actually get another BDM...since i've been wheeling that car for so long.
05-14-2007, 08:42 PM
#7200
has anyone ever used the "hard" yokomo chassis and team bomber top deck together? I remember when I used the carpet yok chassis with the standard top deck it was pretty stiff, not enough for very high grip, but when traction was low it seemed to work well. Is this a good route to go instead of buying one of these custom chassis?
and to use a front diff, do I just use all of the parts for the rear diff in the front or are they different? Also, what is the Part number for the locked center pully and the pins that attach it to the layshaft?
thanks
and to use a front diff, do I just use all of the parts for the rear diff in the front or are they different? Also, what is the Part number for the locked center pully and the pins that attach it to the layshaft?
thanks