Chris Grainger

Hi Everyone

Been a bad few weeks with Family problems, but I'm back on track now, promise to take some pics tonight for you all

Chris

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

some parts for sale if anyone is interested..

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...26#post3102726

coons88

iTrader: (1)

I know this was asked a few pages back, but I don't think anyone had an anwser.
Does anyone know the part # for the new sway bars? Are they even released yet? What is ment to be the difference between the knew ones and the Rayspeed ones?
Maybe Chris could anwser if knowone else knows?

Martin Hofer

I'm searching for the part number myself, but I can tell you the difference.

The new swaybars are bent differently to the rayspeeds to prevent them from hitting the spring. and you can make more adjustments as you have 1/10 differences between the swaybars. with the rayspeeds you only have 2/10 of a mm.

Zacharopoulos

Hello guys

just wanted to post some pictures of my handmade spool by patrick (thanks patrick ) after 24 runs.

blazer2

hi all. i dont know if any of you race at BEDWORTH which is in warickshire,uk but i like any tips and setups as i am thinking of doing the up and coming juniors will be running rp 30 tyres. and if CHRIS GRAINGER would like to give me advice and a set up for 19 turn it would be helpfull.
cheers

Martin Hofer

Hi guys.

Last sunday I was testing around with all that rebound stuff. On medium grip carpet I found 0 rebound beeing the best but I had problems building the dampers with 0 rebound.

I moved away some material from the damper cap to prevent it from pressing against the diaphragm to hard and cause of this generating unwanted rebound. but there has to be an other way to build the shocks with 0 rebound.

anyone having ideas?

I'll post pics of the dampercaps after this weekend.

aoizip

iTrader: (1)

Hey Martin ,

You can try this way. and I always build my shock with zero rebounds (personal preference)

1) don't use the foam on top of the diaphragm
2) fill the shocks up and push the shaft 2/3 up the way when you are done filling the shock with oil.
3) put on the diaphragm and clean out some of the excess oil (not too much)
4) pull the shaft down, by doing this, the diaphragm will get suck down. then clean off all the excess oil around the shock.
5) put the rest stuff back on like normal.

It is a bit tricky to do, but I think after you build one or two, you will get a hang of it. make sure you push and pull the shock to check you didn't bleed off tooo much oil at step 3

~Ming

Martin Hofer

0 rebound to me means that if I push the shaft in (after the damper is completely built) it doesn't come out at all.

aoizip

iTrader: (1)

if you build it the way i described.
there should be no rebound.

~Ming

Martin Hofer

already tried it this way.

I even pushed the shock shaft all the way in, then out the diaphragm on and built the shocks ... stoll about 20% rebound

lignum vitae

iTrader: (7)

have you tried the tamiya black diaphrams
.the shocks are much easier to set with no rebound using these.

Martin Hofer

I use tamiya blacks

Electro-MAX RC

iTrader: (2)

Hi I have another question about the Yoko Shocks.

I'm building a set from scratch, -just wondering if there are any tips to building these shocks right.

Do you necessarily have to use the plastic inner spacers (triangle pieces) that go into the shock chamber? it seems like it would limit travel, plus create added friction.

skypilot

iTrader: (14)

some cut the round part down a bit to allow for more travel, but the triangle part is needed to help with shaft alignment